New Headphone Stand V2: The Transformation
Dec 9, 2010 at 8:53 PM Post #17 of 22


Quote:
Went to OSH today with a vague notion of what I wanted.
 
I don't think 5 way connectors exist: 4 way cross, then one perpendicular.  (They didn't have them, anyway.)  So I think you need to do everything with T's the way the OP did.
 
At the OSH I went to, they even have screw thread pipes and joints.  Instead of sitting there trying to decide how to do it, I decided to come back, look at the pictures again in the 1st post
smily_headphones1.gif
, measure how much vertical height I need for my "longest" pair, and then go back.
 
I wonder if there's any web-based plumbing supply parts seller where we could just look up the parts we'd need and buy them with a mouse click?  And request the lengths.
 
BR: you used 1.5" piping?  At the hardware store today, I was just thinking about using 1".  And then just for benchmarking, if you measure the total height of yours, how high is it?  Yours seems to be a good height!

 
I thought 1" was too thin. Also, you must consider the fact the thinner the tube is, the more pressure will be on the headbands.This is why you must add padding.
 
Well, I didn't measure the whole thing. But the main central tube is around 10 inches, including the sections that insert into the connectors. I'll measure more of it if you want later on tonight.

 
 
Dec 9, 2010 at 10:11 PM Post #18 of 22
Yes, if you post all the diminsions it would be very helpful.
 
That is a great job ....thanks for posting
 
Dec 9, 2010 at 11:33 PM Post #20 of 22
Actually, now that I look at it again. There isn't very much to cut specifically, for my version anyways
 
All you need are the following in 1 1/2 " sizes
 
-4 T Connectors
-4 Caps (the feet) and 2 more for the ends of the headphone holder
-Some Tubes
 
The only one you need to cut carefully is the main tube, which is 10" long for me
The lengths of the holders can be in any size to you choose, but preferably not longer than the base (mine extends out a bit but it's okay)
 
The main thing though is that you'll need to cut small peices of tubing out to connect the caps and the connectors so that it looks like on peice (which is what my base is conposed of)
 
Hope it helps
 
Dec 10, 2010 at 3:25 AM Post #21 of 22
 Yes, I was wondering if you had "hidden" pieces in the base.  :)
 
And you're exactly right, there isn't a whole lot to cut if I just get one long piece and use a hack saw.  I've seen some with tubing where you cut two pieces at a 45 deg angle, and then glue them together, but those cuts then have to precise.  In this case, all the free ends are hidden.
 
OK 10" for the main one.
 
I really like this idea and the fact that it can be customized to a large extent !!
 
Dec 10, 2010 at 4:07 AM Post #22 of 22


Quote:
 Yes, I was wondering if you had "hidden" pieces in the base.  :)
 
And you're exactly right, there isn't a whole lot to cut if I just get one long piece and use a hack saw.  I've seen some with tubing where you cut two pieces at a 45 deg angle, and then glue them together, but those cuts then have to precise.  In this case, all the free ends are hidden.
 
OK 10" for the main one.
 
I really like this idea and the fact that it can be customized to a large extent !!

 
On that note, there are more tubes than you can see. It's just that they're hidden under the T connectors and caps and act as connections, thus no glue required when assembling.
 
 

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