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New: Burson Audio Play Amp/DAC (2W@16Ohm) (op-amp rollers dream)

Discussion in 'Dedicated Source Components' started by ostewart, Sep 20, 2017.
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  1. Fasterball
    That was it. I didn't have seated all the way in even though it kind of looked like it was.

    I do not like the OPA2134 better than the stock NJM5532 that came with my Play. I do however like the OPA134 better than the stock NJM5534. The difference is real subtle and I can't pinpoint why I like it better. What affect on the sound would the single op amps have? It should be fairly minimal right? I'm waiting on a few replacement vivids and classics but for now I have the NJM5532 in LPF and I/v and OPA134 in gain.
     
  2. Wiljen
    If you want to try some cost effective op-amps with similar sound to the OPA134 that worked well in my testing - load the Play up with OPA1611s and OPA1612s The 11s cost about $4 at mouser and the 12 are about $7 (if memory serves) so you have roughly $35 in a complete set instead of the $200 it takes to do discrete.
     
  3. Fasterball
    So many of these great options aren't Dip 8 - I need to get comfortable soldering.
     
  4. Wiljen
    I found adapters on ebay so no soldering directly to the Play. I highly recommend going that route rather than permanently installing them. I think the little adapters were something like $1 each when I found them. ended up paying as much in shipping as I did for the product.
     
  5. imran27
    Me and my friend @Prabeer Patankar have noticed that Play inherently has a laid back and relaxed sounding output stage.

    I tried Play as pre-amp and it sounds much better as a preamp.

    One way I found to mitigate this is to use opamps that have pretty low input capacitance, in the range of 5pF or less and ensure that opamps in 3 stages have GBW same or in increasing order going from I/V => LPF => Gain

    This way, I found that it brings out the midrange forward and details are preserved too. If otherwise you go for a mid forward opamp with a high input capacitance or GBW of any stage is higher than it's next stage then it'll not sound as refined as it should.

    The current configuration of OPA1652 in I/V, OPA1692 in LPF and OPA209 in gain sounds quite nice and refined and more neutral than my previous favorite configuration of LME49720 in I/V and OPA2209 in LPF: It sounded lush but wasn't as clean and detailed and background was noisy/bright as in it wasn't treble heavy but it wasn't silent. Sort of like there were harmonics which kept the decay ringing when it should still be silent, I guess it was due to the fact that LME49720 had GBW of 55MHz whereas OPA2209/OPA209 have GBW of 18MHz.

    Those are just my observations, comments/criticism appreciated :)
     
    raoultrifan likes this.
  6. raoultrifan
    Different harmonics usually sound different, so with what headamp have you paired the PLAY?
    BTW, RCA-out has the same route as Headphones-out, so you're listening to exactly the same output stage at RCA-out.
     
  7. imran27
    RCA outs are taken from before output stage IINR, from the output of gain stage.

    I paired it with Sony TA-ZH1ES and Cayin HA-300.
     
  8. raoultrifan
    I think this has been discussed before...but unless you modded your PLAY, the RCA plugs are directly connected to the 6.3mm plug. Feel free to use a DMM to measure the traces.

    Quite expensive headamp you got there. :) Too bad I couldn't find any measurements, at least FFT @1KHz, though I'm sure sound is great, especially from the tube amp.
     
    Eiffel likes this.
  9. imran27
    Lol, I can't afford those, I auditioned them.

    It seems then that problem arises when output stage is supposed to drive something. When it is not driving any load i.e. driving an amp, it works much better.
     
  10. raoultrifan
    Never had a problem with PLAY driving my cans, from 16-600 Ohms.

    It’s all hidden inside the harmonics of your headamps, only FFT and scope might tell us something, so we can see the even and odd harmonics, but also if there are phase shifts or delays.
     
  11. matti621
    How does this little box dissipate 70W?
     
  12. raoultrifan
    Doesn't need to, it shouldn't draw so much power as a DAC/headamp combo. I can measure the drawn power for you if you want, but a rough estimation would be up to max. 30W.

    However, BANG is inside a similar case, probably with the bottom plate thicker a little bit. BANG is able to dissipate enough heat to deliver 2x40W RMS per channel (feel free to check LM3886TF datasheet for power dissipation formula).
     
  13. Eiffel
    70W is the max power that the power brick can offer.
    Inside the play it's a 5A fuse - so at 60W consumption this will burn to prevent power brick to burn.
    So the real consumption of the Play will be a lot less than 5A x 12 V= 60W.

    Also I think that real consumption vary, depending the cans used and their impedance.
     
  14. vadinoy
    dear forum users, which bundle of operational amplifiers is better to use in conjunction with the akg 712 pro for heavy fast metal ? ( I'm a beginner , please don't scold me too much) :)
     
  15. raoultrifan
    Default NE5532/5534 should do just fine, so just give it a try. Of course, Classics might increase the soundstage a little bit, but the default opamps are just fine. I can't recommend the Vivids, it will increase the trebles and scene a bit too much and might not be the perfect pair with the K712.
     
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