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New: Burson Audio Play Amp/DAC (2W@16Ohm) (op-amp rollers dream)

Discussion in 'Dedicated Source Components' started by ostewart, Sep 20, 2017.
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  1. WilliamLeonhart
    Around 2 years ago I made the mistake of putting a Single in my Little Dot I+ which uses Dual opamps. I only realized the mistake after I was hearing sound from one side of the headphones. Was a terrifying experience but my I+ is still alive and well till today.

    So I guess putting single opamps in dual slot wouldn’t fry them? Perhaps it was putting dual in single slots that messed up the whole current flow and burnt the op-amps? @raoultrifan could you do a explain-like-im-5 for us?
  2. selvakumar
    ok let me buy muses 01 now ill update once installed
    raoultrifan likes this.
  3. raoultrifan
    Placing a dual in place of a single op-amp means to directly apply entire V+ rail to OUT_B output of the opamp, so it will most likely get fried instantly.

    Placing a single in place of a dual op-amp means to have the entire V- rail on OUT, because pin 8 is Not Connected and AFAIK if an opamp is not getting the a voltage rail (in our case the V+) will forward the other rail (V-) to the output. In PLAY's case I assume the protection will kick-in and the relay should trigger. I would say that the single op-amp will survive...unless pin 8 is connected somewhere internally.
    WilliamLeonhart and Fasterball like this.
  4. raoultrifan
    I liked 2 x MUSES8920 in I/V + 1 x MUSES8820 in LPF more actually. I think we can update this thread for the next 50 years or so, we only need more opamps to roll. :)
  5. raoultrifan
    First PLAY (ver. 1.6) or the latest (V2.1 or V2.2)?

    Thank you!
  6. Fasterball
    What did you use for singles in this set up? Also do the singles affect the sound?
  7. imran27

    You just solder the capacitor over V- (pin4) and V+ (pin 8 for dual opamps, pin 7 for single opamps). Capacitor's negative terminal should go to V-.
    Solder these on the opamp socket over corresponding pins.

    As you see above, it's pin 4 & pin 7 sice Gain stage is single opamps.

    Right now, Gain stage has Nichicon PW, I/V has Nichicon PW and Nichicon VZ will go to the 1x OPA1692 in the LPF stage later tonight
  8. Fasterball
    What is this supposed to do?
  9. imran27
    Nichicon PW makes the sound more analytical, gives the bass and treble a good amount of extension an overall better texture to the sound.

    Nichicon VZ sounds more tube'ish. Engaging soundstage with lower-mid/upper-bass emphasis, slightly rolled off treble and a dark background.

    I tried other caps too, Panasonic FM was way too bass heavy.
    Fasterball likes this.
  10. WilliamLeonhart
    Yep 2x 8920 + 1x 8820 is actually better for my ears too. While the other combo has way more bass it didn't match quite well with my speakers which I mostly use for softer music.

    So far my top favorite for the LPF is still the (red) V5. I like it even more than the V6 Vivid, which I leave in the I/V slots. I don't have V6 Classic to roll but I definitely didn't like the Sparkos in there, so perhaps I'd settle with the V6 Vivid + V5 combo.
  11. selvakumar
    True words flow the update like rain since it has infinite opamps to test
  12. Wiljen
    I settled on the V6 Vivids in my Play for now. I've tried most of the common choices and it came down to Muses vs Burson and it was splitting hairs between the two, both are really good.
    jaxz likes this.
  13. Fasterball
    Is it possible to get a bad op amp? I just got some opa2134 and one seems like it's not making good contact. I only get it to work by pushing on the corner of it with my finger.
  14. WilliamLeonhart
    In my experiences the pins are the only thing you need to worry about. In your case it seems the pin in the corner has some sort of problem?
  15. Wiljen
    Yep, usually bending the pin very slightly outward will force it to make better contact with the socket. Just be careful as they bend very very easily and it is likely to go way too far way too fast if not overly gentle.
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