OK gang, I have completed the replacement pad How2.
It was even easier than I hoped it would be - total time can be completed in under 10 minutes with absolutely no tools or glue needed. The new pads look, feel, and function exactly like the stock pads, NO 'homeade/diy' look whatsoever, and zero evidence that the pads were ever tampered with. They may as well have come from the factory like this.
Note that this How2 is only for the stock 90mm pads (because those are the only pads I have access to). The same method will work with the optional 80mm on-ear pads (assuming you purchase appropriate aftermarket 80mm pads). However, since I have only ever seen the optional oval upgrade pads in photos, I do not currently have a method to replace those at this time.
If you are willing to send me your oval pads as a donor, I will develop a method to replace the oval pads that will benefit us all (PM me if interested).
Anyways, my requirements for replacement pads is that they had to have the same ID and thickness as the stock pads, so there were no unwanted changes in sound. I also wanted pads that had similar construction, quality, and feel as the stock pads. Many of the cheap $3-$5 pads didn't cut it, and I purchased a number of potential candidates that I wasn't happy with until I finally found one that I was perfect.
The replacement pad I recommend is this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/182240334787
I will mention that the pad in the ebay link is slightly different than what the seller actually shipped. First off, the seller listed th thickness at 25mm (this is a typo - the actual pad thickness is 20mm just like the stock pad). The photo above has the correct dimensions. Secondly, the pad in the ebay link has a sewn inside edge (on the back side of the pad), but the pad I received had no sewn edge. This is actually preferable (ie no sewn edge). So if you order this pad from this seller (at least as of 05-2017 when this was published), you'll receive the correct pad.
If at some point in the future the ebay link is dead (or the seller is gone), you'll have to find an alternate pad. Here are the 3 main things to be aware of:
1. Make sure the pad is 90mm OD, 48mm ID, and 20mm thickness
2. Make sure the pad has a rear inner piece that is not sewn. If all you can find are sewn units, plan on carefully unthreading the sewn threads. Don't just hack off the whole threaded pleather portion with scissors - you need every bit of that material. Just pull on the threads until they unravel and fall out.
3. Make sure the pad has a rear inner piece that is made of the same pleather as the rest of the pad (like the above photo). If you've ever seen BrainWavz HM5 pads, it has the same thing. Some (low end) pads have a very thin flexible plastic in the back, which you DO NOT WANT (like this example):
OK, so once you have your replacement pads, let's move onto the actual How2.
Remove OLD pads, Install NEW pads
1. Unlock the STOCK pads from the A5 by holding the pads and gently twisting COUNTER-CLOCKWISE.
2. Gently prey off the thin plastic retaining ring using your fingernail. You can also use a guitar pick, gift/credit card, driver's license, spudger tool, dull butter knife, or a small flathead screwdriver. The ring will pry up and remove like this:
3. Now begin to gently peel up on the inside edge of the STOCK pad. It's glued down with a sticky adhesive. Go SLOW and GENTLY. Even if your stock pads are trashed, the goal is to preserve the adhesive because it is needed for the new pad. If you remove the stock pad properly, all of the sticky adhesive will remain attached to the plastic mounting ring. This is what it will look like when 1st peeling the stock pad off (1st photo) and with the pad fully removed and all of the adhesive still in place (2nd photo):
4. Now you will notice that the inside edge of the pad is still attached to the plastic mounting ring:
Just poke your finger through the inside edge and it will easily separate, like this:
5. Now that you have the STOCK pad totally separated from the mounting ring, take the NEW pad and insert the plastic mounting ring inside, like this:
Note: With the STOCK pad completely removed, notice that the STOCK pad has NO inner fabric. The acoustic fabric & foam is built onto the stock plastic ring. My NEW pad, however, DOES have a thin acoustic fabric. It is up to you if you want to cut this out with scissors. I left mine in because it was extremely thin fabric and will make a minimal impact on the sound. If you feel this is a major issue, just cut out the fabric from the new pad using scissors before performing step 5.
6. Once the plastic trim ring is fully inside of the NEW pad, simply fold over the edges of the stock pad and stick it back onto the adhesive. Go evenly and slowly all the way around the pad to prevent wrinkles, and 'tug' on the pleather to stretch it as needed. I found it best to skip around to ensure everything stayed even, for example attach and work a small section at 12 & 6 o'clock, then move to 3 and 9 o'clock, 10 & 4, 2 & 8, and so on. Also make sure the very EDGE of pad material covers all of the adhesive, but STOPS right at the plastic clips (just like the stock pad). You'll end up with this:
7. Once the edge of the NEW pad is all pushed/smoothed down, reinstall the thin plastic retaining ring you removed in Step 2 (note that there are 4 CLIPS along the bottom edge of the thin plastic retaining ring that fit into 4 matching NOTCHES in the stock plastic mounting ring). I have indicated the CLIPS & NOTCHES below:
8. Repeat steps 2-7 for the 2nd STOCK pad. Once both STOCK pads have been replaced with NEW pads, mount them back onto the A5, twist-locking in a CLOCKWISE motion. Here's the completed product with the NEW pads:
Enjoy your fresh new earpads!
Let me know if you have any questions or need any clarification with anything.
- Slater
