[MisterTwo]

Sounds interesting, these iFi PSU's, although these are switching PSUs they still claim to have less noise then linear ones. Hope they can prove this with measurements....
 
The other option I found is this one, but a bit too expensive for my taste.
http://www.sbooster.com/botw-pp-eco-5v---6v/d1050-usb-dac?language=en
 
What about using a real big powerbank as power supply? If the PSU of it can keep up with the loading while the NAD is used, that might be a cheaper option? Although I assume the cells will slowly die as usual with LiIon - so after all probably not really cheaper...

 

[Krutsch]

If you are going the big money route, why not one of these:
 
http://www.teddypardo.com/powersupplies/generic/teddy5-3.html

 

[pakultra]

Update:
 
I just finished building my own super quiet 0.8uV linear power supply and connected it to my Nad D1050. The improvement was instantly noticed by my wife, who said that the music sounded sweeter! Input voltage is steady at 5V, current consumption is steady at 1.4A, which is more than 10% lower than with NAD's factory power supply.
 
If you notice a little bit of harshness and fatigue after listening to your NAD D1050 continuously for more than one hour, then changing to a good linear power supply is highly recommended. At least it has worked for me

 

 

[MisterTwo]

Update:

I just finished building my own super quiet 0.8uV linear power supply and connected it to my Nad D1050. The improvement was instantly noticed by my wife, who said that the music sounded sweeter!

Thnks for sharing! If wifes can hear it, then it must be significant!
So definitley worth to upgrade!

 

[pakultra]

Sure it is!
 
Here is more about the power supply I built for my D1050. http://www.head-fi.org/t/736294/gustard-u12-usb-interface-8-core-xmos-chip/1650
 

 
To put things into perspective, the best battery power supply has a ripple noise of around 30uV. The one I built has a theoretically noise level of 0.57uV

 

 

[MisterTwo]

  Sure it is!
 
Here is more about the power supply I built for my D1050. http://www.head-fi.org/t/736294/gustard-u12-usb-interface-8-core-xmos-chip/1650
 
To put things into perspective, the best battery power supply has a ripple noise of around 30uV. The one I built has a theoretically noise level of 0.57uV

 

Ok, honestly, I didn't understand much of your post in the linked thread
But the power supply looks somewhat experimental w/o a case, and the humming would drive me crazy (although with headphones on, u probably don't hear it...).
 
And the battery supply is also a no-go then, thx for the info

 

[pakultra]

Hi MisterTwo,
 
You are right. It is somewhat experimental at this stage. I might replace the transformer with a bigger one, replace the EMI filter chokes and upgrade the rectifier bridge with Cree diodes later. Once I am sure that I won't touch it anymore, I will put it into a nice metal case. The humming is only slightly audible when I am less than half a meter away from it. It's not an issue for me right now but I expect the humming to be be gone after I replace the transformer. 
 
pakultra

 

[shatrukov]

Hello everyone!
Can share native firmware. Using HIDBootLoader I kept the native firmware. Sorry for my English, I from Russia. Interesting differences: version 2.7 to 100kb. Native (really don't know what version...) weighs 460kb !

 

[nicholars]

I got a logitech harmony 350 and it won't work with the D1050 (except for on/off) I want to change inputs etc. Will the harmony 650 work? has anyone confirmed if the harmony 650 can change inputs on the D1050?

 

[Krutsch]

  I got a logitech harmony 350 and it won't work with the D1050 (except for on/off) I want to change inputs etc. Will the harmony 650 work? has anyone confirmed if the harmony 650 can change inputs on the D1050?

Try another NAD amp/pre-amp model, or a D 3020 - they all use the same remote codes. I have an NAD C 375, a C 162 and a D 1050 (with a D 3020 remote I got from my dealer) and I can control any of them with all of the remotes.
 
With the Harmony, you will just need to rename the input selectors to match the D 1050 (e.g. NAD amp "MP" input will be the D 1050 "COAX 2").

 

[shatrukov]

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

photos nad d1050 inside. Someone wrote that blank. It's far from empty. Two boards in two floors. Bravo nad!

 

[nicholars]

 
Try another NAD amp/pre-amp model, or a D 3020 - they all use the same remote codes. I have an NAD C 375, a C 162 and a D 1050 (with a D 3020 remote I got from my dealer) and I can control any of them with all of the remotes.
 
With the Harmony, you will just need to rename the input selectors to match the D 1050 (e.g. NAD amp "MP" input will be the D 1050 "COAX 2").

 
When you say "all the remotes" do you mean including harmony? Or NAD remotes?
 

 
Do you have this remote? Does that work with the D1050 to change inputs?

 

[nicholars]

I managed to get the harmony 350 working with the D1050 using the 3020 codes, only problem I have is that when I press input next it changes the input on my amplifier as well, I got around this by mapping "input opt" and "input computer" to buttons on the remote, "input computer" works perfectly but "input opt" switches the input on the dac but also activates "tape loop" on my amp, if I press "input opt" again, it will deselect the tape loop on the amp without doing anything to the dac (as the input opt is already selected) so it works but is slightly annoying how it does that and I don't know how to fix that, I tried various settings but it will still select "tape loop" on the amp when changing to "input opt" any idea what I could do to fix that?

 

[Krutsch]

 
 
Do you have this remote? Does that work with the D1050 to change inputs?

 
Yes, I have this remote (the DR2) and it works great....
 

  I managed to get the harmony 350 working with the D1050 using the 3020 codes, only problem I have is that when I press input next it changes the input on my amplifier as well, I got around this by mapping "input opt" and "input computer" to buttons on the remote, "input computer" works perfectly but "input opt" switches the input on the dac but also activates "tape loop" on my amp, if I press "input opt" again, it will deselect the tape loop on the amp without doing anything to the dac (as the input opt is already selected) so it works but is slightly annoying how it does that and I don't know how to fix that, I tried various settings but it will still select "tape loop" on the amp when changing to "input opt" any idea what I could do to fix that?

 
For me, when I use the DR2, the arrow buttons below the circular pad change ONLY the inputs on the D 1050 - on the C 162 and the C 375 these buttons do nothing. So, I use the DR2 to Next/Prev to the correct input, after using the main remote to power on both units and to select the correct analog input on the amp.
 
I was hoping that you could map INPUT NEXT/PREV to the DR2 codes (i.e. D 3020) and they would not effect the amp.
 
I was tired of playing this game, so I just ordered a DR2 and manage things as I describe above.

 

[nicholars]

I don't think the fact that it switches to tape loop on amp at the same time as switching to input opt on the dac  is ok? I am 90% sure it would not and it is possibly a stupid question.