[snozle]

Forgive me for sounding like the complete novice that I am, but I'm interested in building my first cable (to recable a pair of Grados) and I wanted to get some info that I haven't found after extensive searching.

I want to braid my own cable and not use something like the canare starquad that is recommended in the interconnect and various other threads. I saw it recommended in various threads to buy from navships on ebay and to get ~26 AWG cable. My question is, do I have to get four different colors and braid them? If not, how would I differentiate between the different cables.

Also, after I've braided the cables so I simply slide on the multifilament nylon sleeving or do I apply heatshrink first?

Also, any tips from seasoned cable DIYers would be greatly appreciated.

 

[riffer]

If the cables are the same colour, you can test which is which by connecting one end to a battery and testing with your voltmeter from the other end to the other terminal on the battery. Also, you could just leave extra at each end and code with colour tape or something before you braid.

 

[snozle]

Quote:

Originally Posted by riffer /img/forum/go_quote.gif If the cables are the same colour, you can test which is which by connecting one end to a battery and testing with your voltmeter from the other end to the other terminal on the battery. Also, you could just leave extra at each end and code with colour tape or something before you braid.

I guess that i will buy the same color because it comes with 50' and it would kind of be a waste to buy 4 different colors.

After I braid the cables do I simply slide the techflex over or do I have to put heatshrink or some sort of insulation on first?

 

[zer061zer0]

its quite subjective, u can heatshrink the 2 ends (but do leave allowances for termination or u can simply heat shirnk the whole braid leaving some allowance for termination and then slide it into the nylon filament.

 

[threEchelon]

Don't cover the whole cable with heatshrink.

First, braid the entire cable. Then, measure and cut the lengths of techflex (Buy multifilament techflex.). Next, join all the pieces of techflex at the y-split. See the DIY Cable Gallery for different examples of y-splits. Terminate the plug and then connect the cable to the drivers. Remember to slide all necessary heastrink and the barrel of the plug onto the cable before you do clamping, soldering, or anything else that would prevent you from sliding those things onto the cable. That can be the most frustrating part of recabling headphones. Don't let it happen to you.

 

[xmokshax]

Quote:

Originally Posted by riffer /img/forum/go_quote.gif If the cables are the same colour, you can test which is which by connecting one end to a battery and testing with your voltmeter from the other end to the other terminal on the battery. Also, you could just leave extra at each end and code with colour tape or something before you braid.

even simpler, you can always use the continuity test function of your multimeter, assuming that it has one (almost all do). no extra battery required.

 

[snozle]

Quote:

Originally Posted by threEchelon /img/forum/go_quote.gif Don't cover the whole cable with heatshrink. First, braid the entire cable. Then, measure and cut the lengths of techflex (Buy multifilament techflex.). Next, join all the pieces of techflex at the y-split. See the DIY Cable Gallery for different examples of y-splits. Terminate the plug and then connect the cable to the drivers. Remember to slide all necessary heastrink and the barrel of the plug onto the cable before you do clamping, soldering, or anything else that would prevent you from sliding those things onto the cable. That can be the most frustrating part of recabling headphones. Don't let it happen to you.

Great! That was incredibly helpful, thanks. I'm about to order parts and I just have one more question: what size Nylon multifilament should I order? Keep in mind I'll be taking your advice on the lack of insulation/heatshrink and I'm recabling a pair of Grado SR-60s.

 

[threEchelon]

Quote:

Originally Posted by snozle /img/forum/go_quote.gif Great! That was incredibly helpful, thanks. I'm about to order parts and I just have one more question: what size Nylon multifilament should I order? Keep in mind I'll be taking your advice on the lack of insulation/heatshrink and I'm recabling a pair of Grado SR-60s.

For 26 AWG stranded, you'll need 3/16" for the main part of the cable and 1/8" for the two leads to the drivers. What mini are you going to use? The plating on the Neutrik mini's lasts longer, but I like the Switchcraft mini's better in every other respect. You'll have to dremel the opening of the barrel, too, to make it larger, if you choose to use a Neutrik. Markertek has the best prices for Neutrik products and AudioGear / AudioAdapter has the best prices on Switchcraft products.

 

[snozle]

Quote:

Originally Posted by threEchelon /img/forum/go_quote.gif For 26 AWG stranded, you'll need 3/16" for the main part of the cable and 1/8" for the two leads to the drivers. What mini are you going to use? The plating on the Neutrik mini's lasts longer, but I like the Switchcraft mini's better in every other respect. You'll have to dremel the opening of the barrel, too, to make it larger, if you choose to use a Neutrik. Markertek has the best prices for Neutrik products and AudioGear / AudioAdapter has the best prices on Switchcraft products.

I hadn't really thought too much about what connector I was going to use. I was planning on using Neutrik's, but I didn't realize that you have to dremel the opening of the barrel to make it larger. I have a dremel and I might still go that route, but I think I will take your advice again and go with the Switchcraft minis. Are there any other minis that you recommend?

I'm still not sure what I should do for the y-split. I perused the DIY cable thread and saw some interesting options, but I'm new to this and I want something relatively easy, yet decent looking and durable. I read somewhere that two members make wooden y-splits for the grados, have you seen what they look like?

 

[threEchelon]

Quote:

Originally Posted by snozle /img/forum/go_quote.gif I hadn't really thought too much about what connector I was going to use. I was planning on using Neutrik's, but I didn't realize that you have to dremel the opening of the barrel to make it larger. I have a dremel and I might still go that route, but I think I will take your advice again and go with the Switchcraft minis. Are there any other minis that you recommend? I'm still not sure what I should do for the y-split. I perused the DIY cable thread and saw some interesting options, but I'm new to this and I want something relatively easy, yet decent looking and durable. I read somewhere that two members make wooden y-splits for the grados, have you seen what they look like?

The only other respected brands for mini's that I can think of are Canare and Supra, but I don't have any experience with either of them. The only thing that I do know is that they're hella-big.

Hmm... not sure if I've seen them. I have seen Larry's wooden y-splits, though. Just go with whatever method you like best and make sure that the y-split is very robust before moving forward with the rest of the construction.

 

[snozle]

Alright, I ordered the switchcraft 35hdnn (nickel body and nickel connector) and the 35HDBAU (black body, gold connector) connectors (I couldn't decide and I figured it couldn't hurt to have a spare). I also ordered 50' stranded 26 AWG Silver Teflon Wire with 19 strands from navships.

I also got 10' of each 3/16" and 1/8" nylon multi-filament tubing. Now, I've decided to use heatshrink for the y-split and also for the 1/8" connections to each earphone. Wirecare seems to only have 2-1 or more for their heatshrink. What sizes and ratios should I get?

Finally, do I really need a hotknife to cut the nylon multifilament tubing or will scissors suffice?

 

[threEchelon]

Quote:

Originally Posted by snozle /img/forum/go_quote.gif Alright, I ordered the switchcraft 35hdnn (nickel body and nickel connector) and the 35HDBAU (black body, gold connector) connectors (I couldn't decide and I figured it couldn't hurt to have a spare). I also ordered 50' stranded 26 AWG Silver Teflon Wire with 19 strands from navships. I also got 10' of each 3/16" and 1/8" nylon multi-filament tubing. Now, I've decided to use heatshrink for the y-split and also for the 1/8" connections to each earphone. Wirecare seems to only have 2-1 or more for their heatshrink. What sizes and ratios should I get? Finally, do I really need a hotknife to cut the nylon multifilament tubing or will scissors suffice?

You'll want 2:1 3/16" non-adhesive for the strain relief at the termination and possibly the drivers (not sure what headphone you're recabling). For the y-split you'll want 3:1 3/16" adhesive (I think. This depends on the type of y-split you're doing.).

If you aren't using a hot-knife, you'll need scissors and a gas stove. You could probably use a lighter instead of a stove; I've never tried it though.

 

[snozle]

Quote:

Originally Posted by threEchelon /img/forum/go_quote.gif You'll want 2:1 3/16" non-adhesive for the strain relief at the termination and possibly the drivers (not sure what headphone you're recabling). For the y-split you'll want 3:1 3/16" adhesive (I think. This depends on the type of y-split you're doing.). If you aren't using a hot-knife, you'll need scissors and a gas stove. You could probably use a lighter instead of a stove; I've never tried it though.

I checked wirecare for the sizes you specified and they don't have either. Do you know of another site that I can order the heatshrink in small quantities from or should I simply get another size?

Also, when you said "depends upon what y-split you're doing." I read to simply heatshrink while pinching the middle with pliers. Is there an easier/better way than that? I can't seem to find any detailed y-split instructions in the myriad of recable posts.

 

[threEchelon]

Quote:

Originally Posted by snozle /img/forum/go_quote.gif I checked wirecare for the sizes you specified and they don't have either. Do you know of another site that I can order the heatshrink in small quantities from or should I simply get another size? Also, when you said "depends upon what y-split you're doing." I read to simply heatshrink while pinching the middle with pliers. Is there an easier/better way than that? I can't seem to find any detailed y-split instructions in the myriad of recable posts.

Fitz gave a website with really low prices for heatshrink once. I can't remember the name, though. See if you can find it with the search function.

As for size, you could use 2:1 1/4" nonadhesive instead of 3/16" and (I just checked.) you will need 3:1 3/8" (<-- EDIT) adhesive.


That's a good y-split method.

When creating the y-split, make sure(!) that the heatshrink got a solid grip on the techflex. Adhesive heatshrink doesn't always work quite as well as it should.

 

[snozle]

Quote:

Originally Posted by threEchelon /img/forum/go_quote.gif Fitz gave a website with really low prices for heatshrink once. I can't remember the name, though. See if you can find it with the search function.

Here is the thread you were referring to I think.

Quote:

Originally Posted by threEchelon /img/forum/go_quote.gif As for size, you could use 2:1 1/4" nonadhesive instead of 3/16" and (I just checked.) you will need 3:1 1/4" adhesive.

I just checked wirecare.com and they don't seem to have any 3:1 adhesive tubing. The only adhesive they have is 2:1 and the sizes are 3/8" 1/2" and up. The site that Fitz was referring to was mpja.com. I checked it but they don't seem to have any of the adhesive variety.

Quote:

Originally Posted by threEchelon /img/forum/go_quote.gif That's a good y-split method. When creating the y-split, make sure(!) that the heatshrink got a solid grip on the techflex. Adhesive heatshrink doesn't always work quite as well as it should.

Great, how exactly do I do it? From what I understand you just put the heatshrink over the 3 wires and clamp down with pliers between the two while heating it.