My first DIY questions -CMoy- (picts)

[Bullseye]

Hey Head-fiers,

I just came back from the electronics shop of my University and have bought all the equipment they had avaliable. I still have some things missing (volume knob, volume control, op-amp?, etc...) And as it is going to be my first DIY (not last) I would like to clear some doubts I have with the products I bought.

I have been following Tangent's tutorial (for the parts). And this are the doubts:

Protoboard:

FRONT

BACK
As you can see on the picts, it has single holes with no metal on the back.

On T's tutorial, the protoboard had a configuration. How should I prepare the protoboard?

Op-Amp: They did not have any of the amps mentioned in tangent's tutorial, However they had this model: UA741CN with the following values:
INFO ->UA741 Click to view (A .pdf file should open, scroll down page to see)
Is this good enough to use it for the amplifier? -It was really cheap, that is why I bought it-

Jacks: This were the only mini jacks they had. I suppose there should be no problem here, but just to make sure I upload the pict:

Op-Amp Socket: I tried to put the op-amp in its socket and in the pict it shows as low as it can go. Do I need to trim the legs, so that it gets deeper in the socket?

This are my doubts for now. When I get the last components I need I will start building it asap. I will come back here if I face more problems.

Bullseye

 

[Bullseye]

BUMP

 

[apatN]

Anti-BUMP.

 

[Bullseye]

Any help with the board, plz?

 

[BradJudy]

With that protoboard, you'll have to make all of the connections yourself using wire. you should be able to duplicate Tangent's layout by adding wires that match the connected points on his example board.

However, your opamp appears to be a single instead of a dual, so you'd need two of them and either a 2:1 style adapter or a totally different board layout. Did you ask the shop for a dual opamp?

Is that mini jack stereo or mono? I can't tell from the picture.

 

[Bullseye]

thnks for help.

Well it is stereo, has two plates and ground.
How would I use the cable to duplicate Tangent's layout? Also in the way he used it, or? Could you be more specific with that, please? It is my start up point.

Then I bought two of those amplifiers and two sockets. Maybe I could work out something for that. However I will still visit a shop to look for dual op-amps. I am going to return on wednesday (18th) because he had another op-amp model for around 5€ unit. Edit: The one I bought was 0.90€/unit if I remember well.

 

[zkool448]

bullseye, I feel your frustration but unfortunately since your protoboard is completely different from what tangent uses on his cmoy tutorial you'll have to improvise.

As bradjudy said try duplicating the connections exactly on his layout using jump wires or solder. Sorry I know it's alot more work but unless you can find the same protoboard locally, you're pretty much stuck doing it the messy way... or study the schematic really closely I'm sure you'd be able to easily layout the components anyway you like.

zk

 

[Bullseye]

oh ok, so by using solder & jump wires I could duplicate it. Well I know it will take more time, but it will give me practice with soldering. However should I use solder on top and use jump wires and sold them below to do the work?

I am still in time to get back to the shop and get another type, however they do not have the same one as in tangent's tutorial. I think they had one that had all points united with metal. Just the other way around like this one, that has each and every hole separated.

 

[scompton]

You can use leads cut off of the components for hook up wire. Cat5 wire works as well.

 

[Pars]

If you decide to stick with single opamps instead of a dual, check out Cmoy's original Cmoy design, as it used single opamps. Unfortunately, he does not provide a layout; only schematics. Make sure you socket the opamps, as the 741s you appear to have are ancient (1970's) and one of the oldest opamps around... they will not sound good at all.

 

[Bullseye]

@pars, yeah I had seen before the original design, however I still have to buy some equipment, so I will indeed look for dual op-amps. If i remember correctly the guy at the shop told me he also had a "high precision" op-amp, which I think is not the proper one for this build.

Then I suppose by the looks of the board it should be easier to do the "colored parts" with the metal on top, using the metal my board has as a link, no?
EDIT: This is what I meant:
On Radio-shack's board:

the white marking links holes together, no?
And the jumpers link all together right?
As an example, close to the lower right corner of this picture there is a jumper that goes between three holes. However those holes are linked by the white marking to the holes on their left, correct?

Then for me to make that same thing with the type of board i have I could use solder to link two holes together, and the jumpers to do the same as tangent did? Or can I also use jumpers for every connection?

Hope you understand this one

And about the op-amp on socket, do I need to trim the feet if I want it to get in and be able to try different op-amps? Or I leave it as in the picts

 

[Bullseye]

Bump [size=xx-small]Need to get this clear before this weekend arrives [/size]

 

[scompton]

I don't know how easy it is to bridge between holes with solder. I know a couple of people have posted pictures of it on the Pics of Your Build thread. Do you have desoldering wick? If so, I'd practice a little on a board. If not, just use wire jumpers to connect everything.

 

[BradJudy]

You can use wire to replicate the white and jumper connections if you wish to duplicate Tangent's layout.

You could also do everything point-to-point, but given that you're asking the question, I'd take the simplest route which I think is duplicating the board connections in Tangent's instructions and using his layout (assuming you can get a dual opamp).

 

[Bullseye]

Quote:

Originally Posted by scompton /img/forum/go_quote.gif I don't know how easy it is to bridge between holes with solder. I know a couple of people have posted pictures of it on the Pics of Your Build thread. Do you have desoldering wick? If so, I'd practice a little on a board. If not, just use wire jumpers to connect everything.

Yeah, I have "soldering suck wire" as the one from T's tutorial. And I also bought thin soldering wire. I have enough resistances to do the bridges

Quote:

Originally Posted by BradJudy /img/forum/go_quote.gif You can use wire to replicate the white and jumper connections if you wish to duplicate Tangent's layout. You could also do everything point-to-point, but given that you're asking the question, I'd take the simplest route which I think is duplicating the board connections in Tangent's instructions and using his layout (assuming you can get a dual opamp).

If i do everything "point to point" I would only need to do it on the top side where the metal is, no? I will also search for a double op-amp.
And duplicating the board connections would be to put the jumpers? Nothing more?