[chinsettawong]

Nice!  I like your headband very much.  

 

[dude_500]

How's long term durability been for everyone with anti-static cleaner spray?
 
I've been listening to the same pair of my DIY headphones many hours just about every single day for the last 3.75 years, and nothing has gone wrong except they're now up to a 5-10 warm up period for the coating to charge, after which they sound great. Used to charge almost immediately.
 
I don't dare take them apart for a new coating because I haven't had access to CNC tools for years now and would be immensely sad to lose my headphones if I broke something, just curious if others have observed this lifetime change on that coating?

 

[Jaab]

I found in ebay an old fostex T20 it's an Isodynamic headphone (I bought it more by curiosity).
I received the headphone today as "working perfectly",  at first one driver didn't work
I checked the jack connector,  it was fine after that the cable with a voltmeter and finally I checked the driver, I thought a soldering default. .. I opened the driver and looks like this:
2 round magnet taking in sandwich the stator (kind of mylar + aluminum flat wire)
(there are not my photos!)
 
https://www.google.nl/search?q=fostex+t20+mod&client=tablet-android-samsung&prmd=ivsn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj-lYCqlZHTAhUDPRQKHZYMDmQQ_AUIBygB&biw=1280&bih=800#imgrc=ayIx0nUC6iTE1M:
 
https://www.google.nl/search?q=fostex+t20+mod&client=tablet-android-samsung&prmd=ivsn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj-lYCqlZHTAhUDPRQKHZYMDmQQ_AUIBygB&biw=1280&bih=800#imgrc=1MyzoklB0lz9cM:
 
The problem came from a caoutchouc join inside the driver having shrinked, I tightened the screws of both driver and voila both working now but the sound was so-so. 
I read some threads about moding the t50rp. I remouved the thick piece of foam at rear of the cup replaced by a piece of felt and tap partially the vent. I was astonished by the sound produced! I didn't expect that whaaou, they don't lake  of bass, the treble are extended the medium gorgeous. I don't understand why they have  abandoned this technology? 
 
no need any energyser, I can imagine using a bunch of little magnet but the wiring in the mylar
it's another story... if someone have any idea... I know it's not an electrostatic but just a cousin
 
(by mistake I created a new thread!)

 

[Muamp]

Hi dude_500,
 
You say you no longer have access to your CNC and tools, but since they are DIY ESHS that you made, I guess that you can safely take them apart without any fear of damaging them? Even if the diaphragm gets damaged, it is replacable (no CNC required there). Other than that, I don't figure how you can repair them. Make sure it is the ESHS and not the energiser. Test the ESHS on another energiser or another ESHS on your energiser to be certain where the fault lies.....
If you do decide to take them apart to re-coat, pretty much any of the 'anti-staic' sprays should be good for re-coating. Since you are in USA, It is easy getting Licron there, which seems popular where you are. Any of these these last for years, certainly more than 3 years or so....
 
David.

 

[chinsettawong]

I'm not so sure about my coating.  On my Omega clone headphones, the last coating I put on them was at least 2 years ago, and the phones still charged up and played very well without any problem.  However, all my other phones have been having some imbalance problem.  So, I had to take them apart to check the solder joints and recoat the diaphragms from time to time.

 

[bui501-tech]

Hi, Chinsettawong.  Can you help me with some advice on putting together the parts for my DIY electrostatic headphone drivers?
 
I've finally got all the parts and materials together to make my own electrostatic drivers, but I'm still a bit puzzled by the order of the steps to assemble the parts.  These are the order of the steps I'm planning for the assembly of the drivers:
 
1. Stretch the mylar film.
2. Glue spacers to mylar film with contact cement:  copper side of spacers facing the mylar film.
3. Apply Staticide coating to film.
4. Assemble the 2 Stators to either side of the sandwhich using nylon bolts (not using contact cement).
 
Does that sound OK to you?  As above, I'm planning to coat the mylar film with staticide, but do I have to do that BEFORE or AFTER the mylar film is mounted to the spacers/frame?  I'm using single-sided pc board materials that's approximately 0.5mm thick for the spacers with the copper side facing the film to provide the bias voltage to the film, but I'm confused because if the staticide coating is required to provide the slight bit of conductivity to the film, how do I make the film adhere to the spacers and still have a good electrical connection with the copper on the spacers.  
 
Best Regards (and have a Great Song Khran Week!),
Vinh (bui501)

 

[chinsettawong]

Hi Vinh,
 
You've got everything right.  But you might have missed that you need 2 pieces of spacer per 1 driver.  You use one piece to glue that to the diaphragm.  It doesn't matter that you use copper side or the other side to glue it to the diaphragm.  In fact you'll be using the other piece of the spacer to hook up your bias voltage and to transfer the bias voltage to the diaphragm.  So when you put everything together, it'll be stator+spacer+diaphragm+spacer+stator.  As for coating the diaphragm, I always do it after I've glued the spacer to the diaphragm.  I coat only on one side of the diaphragm.  And that side will get its bias voltage from the other spacer.  
 
Well, since you are in Bangkok, maybe you can come to see me and I can show you everything that you need to know.  I think it's easier that way.
 
Happy Songkran festival to you too.
 
Wachara C.

 

[bui501-tech]

Thank you so much, Wachara!  Maybe we can get together sometime after Songkhran?

 

[chinsettawong]

  Thank you so much, Wachara!  Maybe we can get together sometime after Songkhran?

Sure.  Let's do that!

 

[ts8051]

Hello,
I agreed with the above and i suggest to use plastic screws M4 in order to put all pieces together as a sandwitch. Also you must tension the diafragm on a separate hard frame and then solder on its non conductive side the spacer. You must glue the two spacers on the same tensioned diaphragm in order to achieve balance between left and right chanel.

 

[bui501-tech]

Hi, Wachara - are you still using just heat to tension the diaphragm or are you using some type of frame to tension the diaphragm prior to gluing it to the spacers?

 

[chinsettawong]

No I don't use heat to tension the diaphragm.

 

[Muamp]

Finished Muamp#3 this weekend.
Just used them to listen to 'The great gig in the sky' followed by Gorecki 'Symphony No. 3 "Sorrowful Songs"'.
Awesome, shivers down my spin!
 

 

 

 
Being completely open back makes such an improvement at high frequencies.
Muamp#3 has pcbway.com double sided FR4 stators (only soldered on inner copper layer, outer copper layer left open), the same as the stators I sent to the Head-Fi'ers last week. Muamp#4 will be the same, except it will have pcbway.com aluminium stators (not FR4).
 
David.

 

[chinsettawong]

Hi David,
 
Your headphones look great.  I'm sure that you're enjoying them very much right now.
 
By the way, what do you expect from the aluminum stator?
 
Wachara C.

 

[Muamp]

Hi Wachara C,

Thanks, They are my favourite so far. These use PCBway FR4 stators, same as #2, but being completely open back, so much better at high frequencies.
I think the wood looks better than the all black pair.
After another listening session this afternoon, some still prefer #1... but the difference between the two is very hard to distinguish.
My ears are not as good as the people who sit in on the listening sessions, so I rely on their feedback.
I am hoping that the aluminium stators will be the most rigid I have used yet....
Also, there is a possibility of bass similar to that of the SR009, have to wait and see.
I will test the aluminium stators in Muamp#4, so will not know for about two weeks.... haven't started building them yet.

David.