My Corda 2Move arrived today! :P
Sep 5, 2008 at 7:59 PM Post #211 of 224
Oops, I've got the right link. Yours is correct.
smily_headphones1.gif
 
Sep 5, 2008 at 11:06 PM Post #212 of 224
So...I've got the headphone jack problem like some of the others here. My D1001 jack won't sit well in the amps socket.
frown.gif
I've emailed Jan to ask what I can do about this.

Secondly, how do I switch to low gain mode? People keep talking about it here, but I open it up and I don't see any "switches" as such, and I don't understand the schematic on the manual. I don't have to soder anything, do I?
 
Sep 5, 2008 at 11:49 PM Post #213 of 224
I have this headphone jack problem with my XXS as well, and Jan told me to simply cut a bit of the circuit board at the front so the jacks can sit closer to the surface of the front plate. Apparently it was designed like that to reduce strain on the jacks.

Needless to say, I am so not taking a knife to my beloved XXS.
 
Sep 6, 2008 at 12:36 AM Post #214 of 224
Quote:

Originally Posted by jonathanjong /img/forum/go_quote.gif
So...I've got the headphone jack problem like some of the others here. My D1001 jack won't sit well in the amps socket.
frown.gif
I've emailed Jan to ask what I can do about this.

Secondly, how do I switch to low gain mode? People keep talking about it here, but I open it up and I don't see any "switches" as such, and I don't understand the schematic on the manual. I don't have to soder anything, do I?


There are jumpers on the board which can be moved around to change the settings (and whose descriptions are clearly marked on the PCB).
 
Sep 6, 2008 at 2:03 AM Post #219 of 224
Quote:

Originally Posted by jonathanjong /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Is it the black thing? How do I move it?


Lift it up with a tweezer and stick it in the new position.
smile.gif
There's diagrams in the manual that came with the 2Move.

Regarding the loose jack, have you got a battery inside the amp? It helps to keep it in place.
 
Sep 6, 2008 at 2:13 AM Post #221 of 224
So, I swapped the Energizer it came with with a Duracell, and it seems to help the headphone jack thing. Odd. Is it because the Duracell is larger?

Edit: ...And with the Duracell this thing is almost impossible to close without pliers. I'm not sure I have it closed tightly... I think the build issues with the 2Move are a deal breaker, actually.
 
Sep 6, 2008 at 1:36 PM Post #222 of 224
Quote:

Originally Posted by jonathanjong /img/forum/go_quote.gif
So, I swapped the Energizer it came with with a Duracell, and it seems to help the headphone jack thing. Odd. Is it because the Duracell is larger?

Edit: ...And with the Duracell this thing is almost impossible to close without pliers. I'm not sure I have it closed tightly... I think the build issues with the 2Move are a deal breaker, actually.


Yeah, the larger battery pushes the jacks forward and stops it wiggling back. Is there a rubber stopper stuck onto the little silver twisting bit on the rear lid? If it's a bit hard to close with the new battery you could try getting rid of the stopper (it's not glued on or anything).
 
Sep 6, 2008 at 4:47 PM Post #223 of 224
Quote:

Originally Posted by jonathanjong /img/forum/go_quote.gif
And current?


The only reason to use low current mode is to save battery life. Low current mode is also low voltage mode and the available power of the amp is limited to extend battery life. The available power may be sufficient for low impedance high sensitivity headphones and iems, but other headphones will almost certainly benefit from the higher levels of current and voltage available in high current mode. Typically you can expect to trade sound quality for battery life in low current mode, but try it with your phones and let your ears tell you.
 
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