bukumurah
100+ Head-Fier
Hi Fellas, how is the female vocals (upper mids) on something with WM1Z signature which is warm, smooth, thick?
Modifying WM1Z/A
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I wish you guys could listen to my 16 gauge Copper Foil USB cable. Sounds out of this world.
Resolution for days, Zero noise and Distortion.
Shielding is a Cotton Sleeve. Sounds very open and Natural. No extra shielding outside of that.
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Vitaly2017
Headphoneus Supremus
Hey what you guys think of this soldering brand siltech is better then mundorf? Or is good in regard to audiophile use?
I would go with Mundorf. It's very high quality, don't know much about this one.Hey what you guys think of this soldering brand siltech is better then mundorf? Or is good in regard to audiophile use?
A well known brand and reliable... it is similar to regular eutectic solder but with a small (2-4%) silver content... the question though is if the price is worth the application especially if what you are soldering has no silver content (components, terminals, and/or wires). If no silver present then the answer is no... simple “eutectic” solder is perfectly fine and cost worthy to the application. The right solder for the right job.Hey what you guys think of this soldering brand siltech is better then mundorf? Or is good in regard to audiophile use?
The key is to use a quality flux with a known brand of regular eutectic (63/37; tin-lead) solder... eutectic simply means the two metals merge together properly without forming crystal grain boundaries and/or gaps when it melts and re-solidifies.
The more common 60/40 solder mix that you find in the hardware store is NOT eutectic and is avoided for most electronic components in most all use-cases due to it's much slower and rather uneven solidification process upon cooling.
Anything more exotic than eutectic is simply hype (overkill) when it comes to audio electronics unless silver is present. The money saved could be put towards higher quality flux, soldering iron/tips, components, or simply back in your wallet
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Here is an example of a wooden case I fully lined with Conductive Adhesive Copper Foil Tape for EMI shielding purposes. This DAC and headAMP are both highly susceptible to EMI interference... but with the copper foiling... a ringing smartphone literally sitting on top of it (or a noisy PC right beside or underneath it) there will be absolutely no noise-interference. Yes, ugly but super functional!
I have the DSD Version... If you can find it, it's worth downloading.
Sounds Hauntingly Real on the Mundorf Modified DAC.
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Sonywalkmanuser
Headphoneus Supremus
Throw away your tin foil hats! We need this:
Vitaly2017
Headphoneus Supremus
A well known brand and reliable... it is similar to regular eutectic solder but with a small (2-4%) silver content... the question though is if the price is worth the application especially if what you are soldering has no silver content (components, terminals, and/or wires). If no silver present then the answer is no... simple “eutectic” solder is perfectly fine and cost worthy to the application. The right solder for the right job.
The key is to use a quality flux with a known brand of regular eutectic (63/37; tin-lead) solder... eutectic simply means the two metals merge together properly without forming crystal grain boundaries and/or gaps when it melts and re-solidifies.
The more common 60/40 solder mix that you find in the hardware store is NOT eutectic and is avoided for most electronic components in most all use-cases due to it's much slower and rather uneven solidification process upon cooling.
Anything more exotic than eutectic is simply hype (overkill) when it comes to audio electronics unless silver is present. The money saved could be put towards higher quality flux, soldering iron/tips, components, or simply back in your wallet
So I asked this question as I am curious and so you guys know this is the solder that Romi used to do my mod....
He said mundorf is also a very good choice but the siltech is better.
I am a little confused on what @WoodyLuvr is saying. The siltech solder has no silver???
I understood the part where when solder solidifies it stays even and dont creates grains.
But Romi said this one is better grade and affordable to.
I am no expert this why I ask...
They don't declare the Silver Content in this Solder.
It's lead free and not Eutectic, that is it takes longer to solidify. Lead free is much harder to work with, and can form cracks in the solder.
Again it comes down to technique, and if you use plenty of flux it's mostly a non issue.
If you were starting out and buying solder personally, I would recommend Eutectic Solder with Silver, Cardas Ithink is the easiest to work with and doesn't degrade the sound.
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Solder is only as good as your skills ... LOL! Good solders is meaningless if it has not any good contact points or with cold joints
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Vitaly2017
Headphoneus Supremus
So when you solder is it better to have the legs of the cap touching the pcb contact layer? Or it doesnt matter? As I understand solder it self is not containing much of any metals
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Here you go tiger
You will be NASA qualifies
https://nepp.nasa.gov/docuploads/06AA01BA-FC7E-4094-AE829CE371A7B05D/NASA-STD-8739.3.pdf
Pre Tin both surfaces, and then heat the legs so that both surfaces melt, If you add a bit of flux to the board connector, the heat transfer is very fast, and the connection is solid, no cracks. Pre-Tinning is an absolute must!!
Practice makes perfect.
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