[Prowler]

Quote:

Originally Posted by badbod /img/forum/go_quote.gif
 
[edit] forgot to mention that I have replaced the volume control thrice now. The micro stereo control just cant take the power (20mW from my computer). I replaced 2 before mod, and before amplifier. After amp the 3rd one burnt in a day. I have simply bypassed now. If anyone needs instruction on how to change/bypass their crackling volume control you can ask. If you do amp above 15mW you will have no choice. THIS IS NOT AFFECTED BY THE MOD. My computer put out a healthy 20+mW whereas (typically soundblaster) most only do 10-15mW so you will not have any problems. If your volume control is crackling and puts out in one ear only till you mess with the volume control for a while, you have probably burnt it. Bypass is easy. Your MIC on off still works.[/edit] 

 
Yes, I would like to know how to do this. It seems for me that over the years the volume control is wearing out... if I turn the wheel to max volume then the balance is off, so I have to back it off a little bit and sometimes rock it back and forth. Very annoying.

 

[badbod]

Hi,
  you will need some tools,

1. a desoldering pump
2. soldering iron
3. small flat blade screwdriver

 
the case to the volume control is quite easy, insert a small flat blade above the volume control, between the top casing (whre the mic on off switch and volume level indicator are) and the volume rotor. gently prise and it should pop off nicely. I did not damage the volume control doing this but as we are going to rip it out then does not matter.
 
Now gently pull the cables at either end , they should now be released and you will want a little room to play. don't pull too far, just enough so you got a bit of slack space as you now want to turn over the PCB in there. Use solding iron and desoldering pump to the 6 pins at one end of the volume control and 2 more at the other. I actually did this without desoldering pump, just gently levering up the volume control with small flatblade while heating with iron. In this mod we would not be too bothered about destroying the volume control anyway.
 
At either end of the PCB you will see the different color wires from the cables, looking at the cable that goes to 3.5mm jack you want to find the 2 that go into the volume control, I think it was red and blue/green. Easy enough to follow the trace on PCB to find these 2. You want to solder a smalll jumper of wire from the incoming wire to the same color wire at the other end where the cable goes out to headset.
 
I tested by holding the wire in place and making sure I got sound, also checked that it was in the correct ear by panning audio control on computer. In mine it was as easy as connecttig the incoming red to the outgoing red etc  as colours matched.
 
Once done, turn the PCB back over and slot back into place, then push the cable stops back into the casing before snapping the cover back on. The top casing locks the cable stops in place.

 

[Prowler]

Quote:

Now gently pull the cables at either end , they should now be released and you will want a little room to play. don't pull too far, just enough so you got a bit of slack space as you now want to turn over the PCB in there. Use solding iron and desoldering pump to the 6 pins at one end of the volume control and 2 more at the other. I actually did this without desoldering pump, just gently levering up the volume control with small flatblade while heating with iron. In this mod we would not be too bothered about destroying the volume control anyway.  
At either end of the PCB you will see the different color wires from the cables, looking at the cable that goes to 3.5mm jack you want to find the 2 that go into the volume control, I think it was red and blue/green. Easy enough to follow the trace on PCB to find these 2. You want to solder a smalll jumper of wire from the incoming wire to the same color wire at the other end where the cable goes out to headset.

 
Instead of removing the volume control, I soldered jumpers at the 6 pins of the volume control. Actually two pins are adjacent so a simple solder bridge works and then a jumper of wire for the other connection. Anyway, I was a bit lazy to de-solder the thing and figure if it's just a pot then it should have no effect still being in place after jumping the connections.
 
Another thing I did was before doing the jumper mod, I measured exactly what I was hearing; when the volume control is at max, the resistance increases for the right side only. When I backed off the control from maximum then the resistance was much closer between the left and right (never identical though). I should have done this mod sooner, clearly that volume control was affecting the balance.
 
I noticed on the bottom of the PCB the connections are labelled. For me:
red - right
green - left
red/green - ground (for headphones)
white - mic
black - mic ground

 

[ourfpshero]

finally openned up my Xense headphones- the 2 little holes that are in the inner cups but seem to be sealed in the regular pc350 are opened in the Xense - I can see light through them to the driver

 

[MasterDav]

.

 

[Hovis]

Quote:

finally openned up my Xense headphones- the 2 little holes that are in the inner cups but seem to be sealed in the regular pc350 are opened in the Xense - I can see light through them to the driver

 
Hi, can anyone else with an Xense version of the PC350s confirm that the Xense version already has holes in the driver housing that are different to the normal PC350s? Maybe compare them to the pictures in OP's first post? Or even better take pictures yourself and upload them!
 
Thanks

 

[DeadkaiseR]

Hi New to Head-fi just wanted to say thanks for the mod just finished it last night and they sound great!
 
That said I also replaced the audio cable and removed the mic since my puppy chewed though the cable and ate half the mic a year ago lol
 
As I stated before they sound great however when i turn up the sound (especially on bassy songs) or move the cable slightly i get a bit of static.....Also when I move the headphones a bit the drivers sometimes cut out or start sounding weird........ I think the issue is the drivers any idea if these is any chance of repairing these?  
 
I'll Post some pics when i next get the chance! 
 
Also For anyone still looking for HD555 / HD595 cushions you can get some here http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B002STGF6O/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new
 
BTW any have any idea if the HD598 cushions will fit

 

[Teacan]

Hello there, new to Head-Fi. Finally decided to give this legendary mod a try, but I've never done anything similar before (haven't disassembled any headphones); so my problem might seem a bit basic - I can't remove the cushions....
 
The pinch & pull method depicted here resulted in tearing off a bit (an inch) of pleather surface. I know it's for a different set of headphones, but I figured since it's Sennheiser, it should share a similar design.
 
I guess all of you have dis/re-assembled your PC350's plenty of times, so I'd appreciate if anyone could share their knowledge on how to pick them apart. Are there more "surprises" further on (read about the little red wire breaking and 2 skrews behind some tape)? I'd love to experiment more freely, but these weren't very cheap (£130) and I don't want to wreck them just yet. Thanks in advance.

 

[DeadkaiseR]

I'v found if you pull the pads from the bottom away from the drivers that seems to remove them with greater ease...... That said I don't think there is any special method it's just brute force....... 

 

[Teacan]

Cheers DeadkaiseR, worked like a charm.
Mod successful, by means of a hot skrewdriver (2.5 mm) plunged into the side of the inner casing. I expected a change, but nothing on this scale - the result is just profound, compared to what they sounded like previously! The bass isn't over the top, so one hole will be sufficient for now. Fantastic mod - huge thanks to Hero and everyone else for their input.

 

[Fire488]

Quote:

I just registered on this site because I really like what i am seeing and reading. Thanks for all the great advice and tweaks!
 
I have a question regarding the Asus Xonar_Xense version of the Sennheiser PC 350's . According to some e articles I have been reading the PC350's that come with the Xonar_Xense is already modified in some ways. Mine actually has very good bass atm, but what I was wondering is if this mod would make them even sound better?
 
I am going to disassemble them now and see what looks different if anything.
 
Thanks again!
 
also- Does anyone know if the upgraded OPAMPS are still available for the Xonar_Xense card?

I actually did this mod too. I started with one hole and eventually got to three. Holes were drilled using a 3/16" drill bit. The sound is amazing and the bass is very good. I also changed the OPAmps in my sound card (ASUS Xonar_Xense) and that just made this headset explode with sound plus much less distortion. 
Thanks for this awesome mod!

 

[Hezer]

Quote:

Hello there, new to Head-Fi. Finally decided to give this legendary mod a try, but I've never done anything similar before (haven't disassembled any headphones); so my problem might seem a bit basic - I can't remove the cushions....
 
The pinch & pull method depicted here resulted in tearing off a bit (an inch) of pleather surface. I know it's for a different set of headphones, but I figured since it's Sennheiser, it should share a similar design.
 
I guess all of you have dis/re-assembled your PC350's plenty of times, so I'd appreciate if anyone could share their knowledge on how to pick them apart. Are there more "surprises" further on (read about the little red wire breaking and 2 skrews behind some tape)? I'd love to experiment more freely, but these weren't very cheap (£130) and I don't want to wreck them just yet. Thanks in advance.

 
There are small claws that clip into plastic ring of the cushions. In order to remove cushions you'll need to pull the ring away from the center/driver and up, then they will come off quite easily.
 
You can see the claws in this picture marked by arrows.
The arrows also mark the direction you need to pull in order to remove.

 
Here's picture of PXC450 cushions and the plastic ring.

 
Hope that helps to illustrate how cushions are held in place and how they can be removed.
 
EDIT:
In this video you can see a bit how HD555 cushions are removed (skip to 2mins). The PC350 has exactly same method (as the HD555 cushions will fit PC350).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PvQ8PzBrHXE

 

[badbod]

Hi Prowler,
  A slight warning about just jumpering the pins on the volume pot. If you turn the volume pot down to zero, you will be shorting your amplifier output to ground. Depending on your amp this may not be a good idea. Just such a short saw the end of my computer some years back, with parts blown off the sound card, a large black hole in the main board where the sound card was plugged in and nearly a fire, it had been left shorted for some 2 or 3 hours though. I guess you could put it on full volume and remove the plastic 'rotator' part so it cannot be adjusted accidentally.
 
Regards

 

[mhledwards]

Hi, a bit off topic to the Mod, but finding info on this headset is tough, and was hoping someone here might have the information I'm looking for.
 
I recently installed the leather earpads from the pc450 which are great, and I think do improve the sound quality over the stock earpads (thanks to the earlier poster who verified they fit!). Unfortunately, my headband cushion has started disintegrate now. If I can, I'd rather avoid leatherette forevermore, and was wondering if anyone knew if the pc450 head band cushion (or any other replacement cushion) would fit.
 
Thanks!

 

[Mkilbride]

Is there a video of this mod being done?
 
All the pictures and written guides...don't help me, I need to see it done, visually.