[Edwood]

I figured I'd start a new thread to discuss the specifics of potential and on-going mods for the E-mu cards.

Here are pics of the E-mu 1820M's External Box's innards.

Here are pics courtesy of Lan.

Lan's Emu 1820M Thread

Any suggestions for a Analog Stage Bypass? Wodgy? Glassman? Bueller?

-Ed

 

[10068]

Come on, Wodgy and Glassman. You know you want to. Yeah, Ed smells funny. But do it... for.. for the children! Think of the children!!

Thank you.

 

[Iron_Dreamer]

The DAC section guts are the same as on the 1212M, so you should be able to bypass it the same way I did, just on the top of the PCB. Furthermore, you can also replace the opamps in the same way I'm going to on the 1212, or bypass the output coupling caps.

 

[Edwood]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sduibek Yeah, Ed smells funny.

You've been flying out to LA and smelling me clandestinely? That gives me the creeps.

-Ed

 

[10068]

Oh, you don't even WANT to know what i'm capable of.

 

[3Double]

I'd be very interested in a tutorial of sorts on modding the 1212 like Iron Dreamer did. Heck, even posting the pics of his mods in this thread might save people having to dig through the other 1212 thread.

 

[3Double]

ok here's what I was looking for:

edit: is it a simple matter of popping those items out? Do they just pull out pretty easily or do they need to be coerced with heat or rotation? What kind of solder is best for this type of job? Will a standard soldering iron work or will I need one with a finer tip?

Quote:

Originally Posted by iron dreamer You can get all of the following sizes from Blackgates' standard line, I like to order from partsconnexion.com. Everyone I contacted was sold out of the "yellow" ones, so I had to use the more expensive, and supposedly better FK series. If you get all of them in standard, it is $41.05+shipping from the place I mentioned. If you get them before they restock the sold out one, it will be about $25 more. Red: 50V 200uF (x3) Yellow: 16V 100uF (x6) Green: 16V 47uF (x2) Magenta: 16V 10uF (x3)

 

[Edwood]

about 30 watts seems to work well. Any lower and you will be heating it for too long and possibly damage nearby components.

I personally think it's safer to rock each of the caps gently back and forth till they snap off and then using needle nose pliers desolder the left over "legs" in the holes. That way you don't risk getting zapped, or fry something by accidentally bridging the two poles of the cap with your solding iron's tip.

Granted these are really small value caps. It's just an old habit, after getting zapped a few times from the caps for flashes from Kodak single use cameras, back when I used to work at Kodak.

I had a nifty little cap discharger that I wish I had taken with me when I left Kodak.

-Ed

 

[taylor]

To me, it looks like the bypass would skip those transistors and op-amps above the 1/4" jacks. probably from the leg of one of those caps in the "U" shaped area to the ouptut jack. As for which one, I don't know.

EDIT: Referring to the second picture in the first post.