[Kaaf]

  Hello,
 
Recently I upgraded my setup with Objective2 amplifier
 
Since I am a new "audio enthusiast" I want to build Starvig Student as well.
 
As far as I looked on the net, I saw only great reviews about this amp.
 
 
My question now is:
 
Is it possible to get a PCB somewhere ?
 
I texted user Fred_fred2004 about buying few PCBs, but he didn't replay.
 
 
Regards,
Z

Winsor, did you magage to build it? How does the Starving student compare to the O2 amp? I was wandering, because I'm also interested in the O2. And I love the ssh, but it's not very sturdy. And would like a seperate AMP

 

[Wisor]

Hey Kaaf,
 
My starving student project is on hold at the moment. I am still seeking for tube sockets and tubes. 
 
To be honest I am building few CmoyBBs, so I really don't have any time for SS.
 
I would recommend that you buy O2.
 
Starving student is cheaper than O2 (but not a lot), but to let you know a good tube costs around 15€ + socket is 3€ and you need to multiply that by 2 (you need two tubes) and you also need a 48V power supply which is around 10€ on ebay.
 
Other material is very cheap. I payed around 5€ in local store for elements. I would say SS costs around 50€ to build.
 
 
O2 DIY Kit from Switzerland (http://www.headnhifi.com/diy-kits/o2-kit-full) costs 64€ + shipment. If you live in europe, they can send you a package from Germany, so you don't need to pay for customs and other import fees (of corse you need to wait a bit longer).
 
You get everything you need (closering box is included, knobs.....)
 
If you are familiar with soldering I would strongly recommend you to start with O2, because you won't have any logistical problems with material and you get everything you need to build it.
 
Meanwhile you can still buy a PCB from DAVE for 4€, search for material and build it.
 
Specifications of O2 are stunning, and for the price it goes at headnhifi just get one already
 
On the other side SS is a tube amp, but it has mosfets so it's not a "true tube amp"
 
 
Specifications of SS are not nearly as good as O2s, but some people prefer tubes over solid state amps, the choise is yours.

 

[JamesBr]

  Hey Kaaf,
 
My starving student project is on hold at the moment. I am still seeking for tube sockets and tubes. 
 
To be honest I am building few CmoyBBs, so I really don't have any time for SS.
 
I would recommend that you buy O2.
 
Starving student is cheaper than O2 (but not a lot), but to let you know a good tube costs around 15€ + socket is 3€ and you need to multiply that by 2 (you need two tubes) and you also need a 48V power supply which is around 10€ on ebay.
 
Other material is very cheap. I payed around 5€ in local store for elements. I would say SS costs around 50€ to build.
 
 
O2 DIY Kit from Switzerland (http://www.headnhifi.com/diy-kits/o2-kit-full) costs 64€ + shipment. If you live in europe, they can send you a package from Germany, so you don't need to pay for customs and other import fees (of corse you need to wait a bit longer).
 
You get everything you need (closering box is included, knobs.....)
 
If you are familiar with soldering I would strongly recommend you to start with O2, because you won't have any logistical problems with material and you get everything you need to build it.
 
Meanwhile you can still buy a PCB from DAVE for 4€, search for material and build it.
 
Specifications of O2 are stunning, and for the price it goes at headnhifi just get one already
 
On the other side SS is a tube amp, but it has mosfets so it's not a "true tube amp"
 
 
Specifications of SS are not nearly as good as O2s, but some people prefer tubes over solid state amps, the choise is yours.

Good info here, thanks alot!

 

[brokentofu]

Is there a PCB available that has the modifications for using the 12au7 tubes? I'd love to build a 12au7 Millett Starving Student with the 12au7 tubes, but I don't want to try my hand at a P2P build.

 

[Forte]

  Is there a PCB available that has the modifications for using the 12au7 tubes? I'd love to build a 12au7 Millett Starving Student with the 12au7 tubes, but I don't want to try my hand at a P2P build.

 
 
http://www.head-fi.org/t/664191/starving-student-pcbs

 

[Fail]

This seems like an interesting project. I'm gonna have to see what kind of spare parts we have laying around at work that will allow me to build this. Then I'll order the rest that I have missing.

 

[djonesii]

Just in case any one is interested, over in this thread, the PCB is still available ....
 
Got mine on order from down under.
 
 
http://www.head-fi.org/t/664191/starving-student-pcbs
 
Dave

 

[OrangePower]

Hi Guys
 
I`m new here and I`m building starving student.
PCB are rdered from down under. I have problems finding lamps in my country.
I can get 12AX7, ecc82 (7418, 5963).
Which one of these can I use in this amp?
I`m working with lamps first time...
 
Thank you for help
 
BR
OP
 
P.S. What do you think about that
http://www.tech-diy.com/Headphones/AsceticStudent/AsceticStudent.htm

 

[Nathan P]

Hi OrangePower,

I just finished trolling this whole thread as I think this is a perfect first project for me. I can pass on what I've gleaned but don't take it as gospel. I don't have a working amp yet.

Any of those tubes should work. I believe ecc82 is just a different designation for the 12AU7. The 12AX7 will work but is extremely high gain, so for most headphones it isn't a great choice. From my research, people really like the 5963. That's what I've chosen. GE's are a favorite among SOHA builders. Their nominal usage voltage is a bit lower so they'll get closer to the linear range than the standard 12AU7 according to some. Personally, I just found a great deal on some. I was bouncing back and forth on tube choice for my first set until I found some for literally half the price of what I was finding before that. Dilemma solved.

Cheers
Nathan

 

[Scarface81]

Hi guys, I'm new to the forum, I've been doing a lot of reading and search etc, I have decided to build a 12au7 version of this amp with the optional parts, this will be my first build using a schematic and NO pcb, I have a couple of questions though, on the schematic it shows resistors between the rca in and the volume pot, however I can't see them in most pictures I see of the amps insides? Do people not put them in? Or they're just somewhere else in the wiring? Higher kOhm pot? My other question is about these caps I got, they are suntan brand part number ts08s, under the part number they have 224k 275v, if I google the latter it shows as a .22uf cap, if I google ther first part number it's shows me something different, will these caps be ok for c3a and c5a? I may have other questions later, thanks guys

 

[tomb]

Hi guys, I'm new to the forum, I've been doing a lot of reading and search etc, I have decided to build a 12au7 version of this amp with the optional parts, this will be my first build using a schematic and NO pcb, I have a couple of questions though, on the schematic it shows resistors between the rca in and the volume pot, however I can't see them in most pictures I see of the amps insides? Do people not put them in? Or they're just somewhere else in the wiring? Higher kOhm pot? My other question is about these caps I got, they are suntan brand part number ts08s, under the part number they have 224k 275v, if I google the latter it shows as a .22uf cap, if I google ther first part number it's shows me something different, will these caps be ok for c3a and c5a? I may have other questions later, thanks guys

The SSMH PCB version, which is what the 12AU7 schematic is based on here: http://diyforums.org/SSMH/SSMHvariants.php, uses an Alpha stereo volume pot.  The basic amplification of either the 12AU7 or original 19J6 tube means the gain is too high for most headphones and sources.  The result - without correction - is that most comfortable listening is way down in the lowest travel of the volume knob.  Unfortunately, this where almost all stereo volume pots (except something like the Alps RK27) perform poorly with channel matching - including the Alpha pot.  The use of the input resistors "throws" the volume adjustment range further into the middle of its travel, where the channel matching is much better.  This is something you will need to play with, typically in increments of 50K for a 50K volume pot.  Use increments of 10K for a 10K volume pot, etc.  If gain is still too high and all of your listening is at 9 o'clock and below, then throw in a 100K resistor for a 50K volume pot instead of a 50K resistor.  Still too high, make it 150K.  Keep doing this until you get to the range on the volume pot that satisfies most of your headphones.  That sounds more complicated than it is, really.  At least with the 19J6, most opted for 50K, I believe.  I think I supply both 50K and 100K resistors in the SSMH kit, since the Alpha pot is 50K.
 
About the caps - According to the mfr's data sheet: http://www.suntan.com.hk/pdf/Plastic-Film-Capacitors/TS08V.pdf, these caps can vary from 0.022 to 2.2uf.  Unless you can find something written on the case that says "uf" with it, you will need to measure them with a meter to find out.  It's curious that even in the photo on that data sheet, the "224K" is showing, but no "uf" rating.  I have no idea what the 224K means - does it have writing on the other side?  Surely it says "uf" with a number somewhere.

 

[Scarface81]

Hi, thanks for the info on that, I understand it now, about the caps, there is no writing on the other side of them, I think I'll take the safer route and source some that are more clear on what they actually are, I got them from jaycar as they didn't have anything else, I live in Australia, can you suggest where I could get some?


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[Scarface81]

Never mind guys, got myself a meter and checked them out, they measure between 223nf and 218nf, thanks for taking the time to help out, I really appreciate it


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[tomb]

Never mind guys, got myself a meter and checked them out, they measure between 223nf and 218nf, thanks for taking the time to help out, I really appreciate it


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Ah ... so the 224K was referenced to picofarads.  So, you have what you need - 0.22uf.

 

[Danthrax]

So I'm making the 19j6 variant (actually 2 of them) and I'm wondering how this variant: http://www.diyforums.org/SSMH/schematic/SSMH-origPCB.gif is different from the original Pete Millet design I haven't found any clear answers. I'm trying to figure out which one would deliver the most current. Or if there is an alternate configuration that would give me better results.