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Millett "Starving Student" hybrid amp

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  1. Beftus
    Quote:
     

    Take your DMM, set it to measure conductivity or resistance. Touch the center pin with one probe then the probe contact pins of the power jack. When your DMM beeps (conductivity) or reads zero ohms (resistance) then you've found the corresponding contact pin. The center pin is positive, the sleeve is negative.
     
    What kind of sockets did you buy? Sockets come in two flavours: PCB mount and chassis mount. You need chassis mount sockets since you don't use a PCB. Chassis mount sockets usually have solder eyelets.
     
  2. hellomoto
    Hi!
     
    First, thank you for your reply!
     
    I realized that I had PCB Mount, problem resolved, thanks!
     
    Antoine
     
  3. wiisus
    So, I have mine all setup and it sounds pretty good!  I have to go through and rewire it with some better wire soon (waiting for solder to come), and some kind of better grounding.  Whateves.  But, one of my tubes is a good deal brighter than my other one.  But there isn't any channel imbalance or anything.  They are different brands, though, could that be the reason?  I've rechecked my wiring multiple times and it looks correct.

    thanks
     
  4. c12mech
    I had that same issue with the tubes not being the same brightness.  I swapped them from side to side.  One tube is just a little brighter than the other no matter where it is.  It's just the tube itself.  On my amp there is about a half volt difference between sides and I thought that was the reason but I guess not. 
     
  5. jamesbobo007
    I kind of lost track of things here. Was there ever any solution to the DAC issues ? and was it ever determined if it was just the Alien DAC or all DAC's ?
     
    c12mech and wiisus, what tubes did you build with? Adding tube led's might be a nice solution.
     
  6. Juaquin
    No true solution, but you can build your own power supply since it's thought to be caused by the Cisco PSU. Advice is to leave the DAC connected to the amp at all times to prevent a charge from building up and zapping the DAC when you plug it into the amp. That's been working perfectly with my GrubDAC and SSMH for months now, but it's not a guarantee. The issue was supposed to be confined to the Alien/Bantam but there have been a couple reports of it frying the Gamma1/2 over on the AMB forums. Since the issue is believed to be due to the Cisco supply, has anyone who's built their own supply been able to verify that their amp does not fry an Alien/Bantam?
     
  7. Beftus
     
    Grid stopper question.
    I have a built the 12AU7 version that I like very much. It suffered from some noise when I touched the (grounded pot) volume knob and also when I touched my iPod. Did some reading on grid stoppers and installed R14 and R15, both 1K, right before pin 2. No more noise. Good!
     
    I just found this way back in this thread:
     
     
    Quote:
    Pin 5 and 6 are the grids of the 19J6 tubes, in the 12AU7 version the grids are pin 2 and 7. For my next 12AU7 build I want to implement two grid stoppers as outlined above. What value should they be? Still 1K each?
     
  8. c12mech


    Quote:

    I used 17EW8 tubes.  No tube LED's for me.  I just don't care for the way they look.  I like the way the tubes look by themselves.  So far since I hooked up the new PSU it is working great.
     
  9. wiisus
    I used 12AU7. 

    I'm going to be adding LEDs soon.
     
  10. nikongod
     
    Quote:

    The best answer is: the smallest value/least resistance that does the job. 
    1K is nice because it almost always works. I would get a bunch of values and try them out.
     
  11. Beftus
    Quote:
     

    Cool, thanks! Gonna start with two 1K's since a single 1K works so well already. Too bad I don't have access to a scope to obtain the optimum value.
     
  12. revolink24


    Quote:

    In addition to this, I was hoping someone could point me to some heatshrink and wire suitable for a p2p build of the SSMH, since this will be my first P2P build. Mouser part numbers would be great.
     
  13. hellomoto

     
    Quote:

    Hello,
     
    The center pin is the biggest pin, who makes an "L" right? When I put one probe on this one, and the other on each of the two other pins, it tells me "1", used in resistivity, so no conductivity I think? It tells me 0 when i put the probes on the contact pin, so conductivity, right?
     
    When I put the plug in the power jack, I haven't any conductivity between any of the pins
     
    Is this normal?
     
    On the site of P.Millet it shows on the picture how to solder it, (the pins are in the same disposition, and i also use a blank PCB board for ground) so can I solder it like on the picture?
     
    Thanks
     
  14. ArtemF
    First of all, do NOT measure the resistance when the system is powered.
    You can fry your multimeter.
     
    Second, I'd suggested to use multimeter in voltage measuring mode to know for sure
    where is "+" and "-". Naturally, this measurement should be performed when the PSU works.
    Regardless of the internal stuff in the plug you'll have to find two pins with +48V across
    them. The one the red lead of your multimeter is connected to is the "+", the other one is  "-".
    That's it.
     
  15. hellomoto
    Thanks ArtemF, it works perfectly
     
    I would like to know how to solder the Jack Output. I didn't pay attention and bought a PCB one, so I have 6 pins, two for each of plus, minus ang ground, and I recognized which was which, but how should i solder the pins on the wires?
    http://fr.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=NMJ6HCD2virtualkey56810000virtualkey550-22302
     
    For the pot, I have the same problem, I don't know which wire goes were, but It is the same as the one of Pete Millet on his website, so I think I just have to solder the wires like in the picture.
    http://fr.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=RV122F-20-15F-A50Kvirtualkey14860000virtualkey313-1240F-50K

    Thanks
     
    Antoine
     
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