"Millett Hybrid" redux: NuHybrid headphone amp, using the Korg Nutube
Mar 27, 2019 at 4:57 AM Post #406 of 507

Hi pete,

I have added the little jem between the picoreplayer and my denon amp and sounds excellent.
I remember that at some point I read a small description from you regarding the bias voltage (maybe on diyaudio, cant remember).

Can you describe the differences if you go lower or higher?
I remember reading that lower makes the highs more “sweet” or something (very scientific terminology... hehe sorry)
What would be the usable range?

Thanks

Ps: snake-oil observations/untrained ears: with the studio monitors (yamaha) the highs felt hard but with my floor standing Klipsch they sound like a charm. Might be the space too or the yamahas are known for the dry sound (thats why we like them for the job)
 
Mar 28, 2019 at 11:48 PM Post #407 of 507
I finally finished my Nuhybrid build!

The amp has been in service for just over a month, and it's been great step up in my listening experience. Having proper power behind my headphones makes the music sound full, and it's been nice to have something to boost my phone so I can properly listen in places other than at my computer. I now understand what the comments meant by the Nutube being microphonic. It makes a high pitch ringing sound in response to some contact and sharp movement. I mostly notice it when the relay activates or when I brush the volume dial. However, I don't pick it up when I move the amp around or if I bang on my desk. It's significantly damped when using my high impedance headphones, and I can't really notice it while music is playing.

It was a good beginners build. Very straight forward, especially with Pete's instructions. It took a bit of extra planning the assembly order to account for some of my selected over-sized components, but it all came together with a bit of patience. I can confirm that the 10uF WIMA capacitors fit in the stock Serpac base with a couple small washers as spacers. The difficult part with those was their very short leads that barely had the length to go through the board after bending to fit the spacing. Other than the visible differences in capacitor selection, I increased C2 to 22uF to lengthen the muting circuit timing as some had mentioned a decaying noise. It makes the timing ~12sec, which I find to be a reasonable waiting period. I can't say if I would have noticed the difference had I not mixed up the BOM, but it feels good to have made it my own in a small way.

I made the base from 1/2in oak for the perimeter, craft ply for the bottom, and square dowel for the standoffs, all held together with glue and finished with a dye stain and poly. I recessed some EAR feet so that it only sits a couple mm off the table. The top uses machine screws, washers, and spacers to hold up a piece of acrylic. It doesn't offer much for isolation, but it shows off the Nutube and other components while providing good protection. I felt like this was one I wanted to be able to look at all the time.

While building, I had the thought that you could mount the Nutube to the bottom of the board to make it the tallest thing on that side and mount the whole thing upside down in order to display it through an opening in a custom enclosure. I'm not sure if that would harm anything, but it doesn't seem like it would to me unless the regulator heat collecting upward is too much. The power switch going the other way would bug me until I got used to it, but it seemed like a way to be able to present just the Nutube through an enclosure without mounting it off-board and messing with jumper wires you need to keep short.

I've stated working on building Pete's Butte amplifier, with a couple add-ons planned. This one has impressed me, and I will be be building more of his designs to keep the fun going. Thanks Pete for these designs and thanks to all in the thread for your contributions to my experience.

Happy listening!

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Mar 30, 2019 at 12:08 PM Post #408 of 507
Hi !!! Finally i got into the game !!! I was waiting from last summer due some problems i had. Two days ago i managed to order from Pete the pcb and the tube !!!!!
Now i'm close to order the remains from mouse. I will go to a panel mount solution (pot, power connection , rca inputs etc) using Hammond 1455N1601BK enclosure.
The only thing that i'm still behind is the choise for the 4 Electrolytic Capacitors for C3,C5,C6 and C11. There isnt nay UFG1V471MHM in stock right know till the end of the next month.
So i have to decide between NICHICON UFG1H471MHM 50V (16x25) and ELNA RFS-50V471MJ8#5 (SILMIC II) (16x35.5). Both are in stock.
So 2 questions :
First , there will be any problem using one of the last two Capacitors cause diameter is 16mm and the one Pete has in BOM is 12 mm. Does it fit ??? Till now in forum , i have seen 3 or more guys who have made that choise. What about NICHICON KZ series (same dimensions as ELNA)??
Second , there is a big price difference between NICHICON (1,28 €/pc) and ELNA (2,95 €/pc).
Worth the choise of ELNA ?? (two for one !!!)

Thanks in advance
 
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Mar 31, 2019 at 10:55 PM Post #409 of 507
I think Ø16 capacitors will fit. I also noted caps of that size fitting in other build pictures in this thread, and Ø16 just fit when I was drawing scaled circles over the board layout to answer the same question. The ones I used were Ø18 (previous post pics) and I had to mount the C4 and C7 film caps on the bottom.

From all that I read for this project, it's debatable if there's much difference between the electrolytic capacitors when it comes to performance. I went with ELNA's because it was only a few bucks more and many people in various threads swore by them. A very "why not" decision. However, I only used them in C3 and C6 since they're directly in the audio path. I used Panasonic FR's for the other two for high life and low ESR. I think the ELNA RFS35V471MJ7#5 would be a closer match to stock at the same 35V and cut the price down a bit. The KZ are above FG on Nichicon's own chart and would make a good substitute as well. I think you'd be looking at the UKZ1H471MHM. I noted one post in my searches that said the ELNAs sounded more tube like where the KZs sound flatter. I can't say if that's true and took it with a grain of salt, but it was the only sound description I came across.
 
Apr 4, 2019 at 9:47 PM Post #411 of 507
Occasionally my amp will pick up a weird ticking noise with no input. It doesn't change with volume and if I hover my hand over the tube, it goes away... I haven't been able to figure out what is causing it.
 
Apr 4, 2019 at 9:50 PM Post #412 of 507
Occasionally my amp will pick up a weird ticking noise with no input. It doesn't change with volume and if I hover my hand over the tube, it goes away... I haven't been able to figure out what is causing it.
Sounds like WiFi. It can cause a ticking noise, especially if it's near a router.

Pete
 
Apr 4, 2019 at 9:53 PM Post #413 of 507
My router is 3ft away but it wasn't an issue before unless I didn't notice it, the ticking is hard to hear. I did move to a new house but all my equipment is the same.
 
Apr 19, 2019 at 9:09 PM Post #416 of 507
It should be OK.

Pete
Thanks Pete!

Board arrived a few days ago. Assembled that afternoon! Power supply works well.

Designed a hardwood case that will hold both boards. Aluminum stock will be used for front and back panels.

Now my question is, does a classy nutube badge exist for purchase? Or perhaps a Pete Millett designs emblem or anything like that?

Since the power supply will be sitting to the right (viewed from front) of the amp board, there will be 3 inches of blank aluminum on the front.

Progress to date shot might give a better idea of what I mean (just imagine the aluminum front panel).

What do I do with that space?

l3op2VP
 

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Apr 20, 2019 at 3:19 PM Post #418 of 507
Hi !!! Slowly but steady (once in a week !!!) till now , i've managed to complete the board except the Nutube and the others that they will not solder in pcb. My Hammond case will arrive in the first week of May , cause it is out of stock at Mouser.
I would like to ask if anyone has use Metal Pushbutton - Latching (illuminated) instead of toggle switch and what type of Metal Pushbutton??
I think that will be a visual upgrade , specially in the front... In that case i will solder the PCB tips for LED directly to Pushbutton tips for illumination. LED voltage must be 24 V ??
PCB #1.jpg
 
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