NotoriousBIG_PJ
Step 1: Plug power cable into wall. Step 2: Plug other end of power cable into....umm.... Step 0.5: Order something to power with power cable.
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2002
- Posts
- 3,487
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- 23
I've owned the shanling s100 player (identical to music hall cd25) for a few months now and I thought I would offer some tips on how to get the most out of this player. The stock player suffers from somewhat weak bass and strident highs. A few tweaks though and you have one heck of a good value player. This is a very smooth sounding and detailed player, although lacking the depth of higher end players.
Replacing the op-amps:
warning: please go to the diy forumn if you have never done something like this before to find out all the facts you need to know (things like which opamps won't work properly and how not to kill yourself..).
This player uses two socked dual opamps that can be swapped by opening the player, lifting them up using a flat head scew driver and popping in the new op-amps (making sure they are facing the right way). I use rs-1's which are a bit bright so I got burr browns highest end dual's which are somewhat dark. These opamps gave increased bass performance but did not do much for the highs. So then I moved on to b.b. opa627bp's which are single opamps so I had to solder them to brown dog single to dual adapters and then plug the browndogs into the sockets. The opa627's gave the player added weight and smoother highs. Even slightly more depth. Good enough for me.
Replacing the stock powercord:
One thing I have learned is that aftermarket power cords are very system dependent and the shanling benefits greatly by replacing the stock cord. I have auditioned 3 seperate copper cords ranging from $100 to $700 msrp in my system and each was a significant step up from the stock.
The stock cord gives the player a metallic edge to vocals that is fatiguing and ruins the singers pernunciation. There is a digital haze present that dissapears on the audiophile cords. You also get a blacker background and a lowered noise floor that in turn reveals more details.
I would say go with a copper cord known for good value. Some silver cords might be too bright for this player, but I can't validate this. Just know that you don't need to spend a lot to get a lot.
Interconnects:
I've had a few interconnects in my system ranging from stock to $450 dollars and I would say just stick to good sub $50 cords because I did not find significant improvement from the higher priced ic's. Its the last 2% kind of deal. But please do not use the stock interconnects, they are very grainy sounding and arn't good at passing along bass.
Conclusion:
What I have ended up with is a player that has no brightness and I can listen for hours on. Sure, I'm still saving up for a better source, but while doing that I'm going to have fun listening to a player I now like and recommend.
Biggie.
Replacing the op-amps:
warning: please go to the diy forumn if you have never done something like this before to find out all the facts you need to know (things like which opamps won't work properly and how not to kill yourself..).
This player uses two socked dual opamps that can be swapped by opening the player, lifting them up using a flat head scew driver and popping in the new op-amps (making sure they are facing the right way). I use rs-1's which are a bit bright so I got burr browns highest end dual's which are somewhat dark. These opamps gave increased bass performance but did not do much for the highs. So then I moved on to b.b. opa627bp's which are single opamps so I had to solder them to brown dog single to dual adapters and then plug the browndogs into the sockets. The opa627's gave the player added weight and smoother highs. Even slightly more depth. Good enough for me.
Replacing the stock powercord:
One thing I have learned is that aftermarket power cords are very system dependent and the shanling benefits greatly by replacing the stock cord. I have auditioned 3 seperate copper cords ranging from $100 to $700 msrp in my system and each was a significant step up from the stock.
The stock cord gives the player a metallic edge to vocals that is fatiguing and ruins the singers pernunciation. There is a digital haze present that dissapears on the audiophile cords. You also get a blacker background and a lowered noise floor that in turn reveals more details.
I would say go with a copper cord known for good value. Some silver cords might be too bright for this player, but I can't validate this. Just know that you don't need to spend a lot to get a lot.
Interconnects:
I've had a few interconnects in my system ranging from stock to $450 dollars and I would say just stick to good sub $50 cords because I did not find significant improvement from the higher priced ic's. Its the last 2% kind of deal. But please do not use the stock interconnects, they are very grainy sounding and arn't good at passing along bass.
Conclusion:
What I have ended up with is a player that has no brightness and I can listen for hours on. Sure, I'm still saving up for a better source, but while doing that I'm going to have fun listening to a player I now like and recommend.
Biggie.
