[Will_i_ams]

You can buy something like:


https://www.amazon.com/Avantree-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Wireless-Headphones/dp/B07TLHRPDP/

I have an older model of this.

It basically converts either the optical out or any analog out into a Bluetooth signal.

If a headphone supports Apt-X Low Latency, the transceiver will send that to the headphone, which is good. Otherwise you're stuck with slower codecs which will lag behind whatever is on screen. So I'd make absolutely certain a headphone accepts low latency Apt-X.

Also, this device only accepts 2 channel pcm, (stereo). So make 100% certain that your TV or ps4 or whatever it's connected to is set to pcm 2 channel/stereo, or it won't send a proper signal.

Of course, this means you're not getting surround or anything like that. But there IS a way to get that.

What you CAN do is something like this device with a Creative G6. The G6 can send already converted virtual surround into a 2 channel signal via the optical out. This is the ideal solution for people who want their virtual surround to be sent through Bluetooth. You can also just send it through the analog out of the G6 if needed.

Thanks so much for the response. Would either option allow for talking over the headphones?

Also, the Jaybird Vistas haven't got aptx. Hmm,only wanted to buy one set for the moment.

It's either back to the drawing board or get a cheap pair with aptx

 

[Mad Lust Envy]

Thanks so much for the response. Would either option allow for talking over the headphones?

Also, the Jaybird Vistas haven't got aptx. Hmm,only wanted to buy one set for the moment.

It's either back to the drawing board or get a cheap pair with aptx

No. I mean, how would that be possible? The device is literally extracting audio from audio OUTPUTS and converting then into something the Bluetooth codec can read.

 

[PurpleAngel]

Playstation games use Blu-ray. Not sure if that changes anything in regard to audio.
How do I achieve the 24/48 frequency? The optical output on my older TV is probably around 16/40 or lower. Plugging the dac directly into the PS4 is obviously the best way. However the volume isn't at my preferred listening level.
Slightly different topic.
Just out of curiosity. I wonder what the DUALSHOCK 4 specifications are in regard to audio quality. Whatever they may be. I find it impressive that you can have stereo quality sound coming through a wireless controller.
This does echo a similar conversation I was having with another head-fier. This also gives me a piece of mind having the second opinion.

You TV's optical output should at least pass 24-bit/96K digital audio (2-channel, PCM).
Just a guess, the PS4 gaming disk might be Blu-ray because it will hold a lot more content, then a DVD disk.
Video files would take up a lot of disk space, the video's audio might be higher than 24-bit/48K, but really just guessing.

 

[Playstation]

You TV's optical output should at least pass 24-bit/96K digital audio (2-channel, PCM).
Just a guess, the PS4 gaming disk might be Blu-ray because it will hold a lot more content, then a DVD disk.
Video files would take up a lot of disk space, the video's audio might be higher than 24-bit/48K, but really just guessing.

I really need a new TV. Which would make the most sense given my needs.
Speaking about Tv's. Looks like to get a TV with 120hz it's going to cost a couple hundred extra.

Another thing is the fact that console game audio, in the past anyways, hasn't always been that great. This isn't as often a issue with PS4 games. Though, on the PS3, I have played several games that had terrible audio for whatever reason.

It seems, now using the X2's I am hearing more noise interference than I did using the Astro's. Astro's really lack the clarity that comes with the X2's.

MLE recommended the X2's. I really like them for a lot of reasons. However, I will always have a love for the forward mids of the HD598's. Overall the X2's are better. Unless you need something solely for competition then the 598's would be the better option.

 

[Mad Lust Envy]

I really need a new TV. Which would make the most sense given my needs.
Speaking about Tv's. Looks like to get a TV with 120hz it's going to cost a couple hundred extra.

Another thing is the fact that console game audio, in the past anyways, hasn't always been that great. This isn't as often a issue with PS4 games. Though, on the PS3, I have played several games that had terrible audio for whatever reason.

It seems, now using the X2's I am hearing more noise interference than I did using the Astro's. Astro's really lack the clarity that comes with the X2's.

MLE recommended the X2's. I really like them for a lot of reasons. However, I will always have a love for the forward mids of the HD598's. Overall the X2's are better. Unless you need something solely for competition then the 598's would be the better option.

If you love the 598s no reason to not move up to the 6XX or at least the 58x Jubilee. They're a step up

 

[Chastity]

G6 Owners: Do you find the output, either amp or Line-Out, to be a little bit on the dry side, especially in regard to the mids and/or lower treble? I'm suspecting some SS odd order harmonics may be at play.

 

[Playstation]

If you love the 598s no reason to not move up to the 6XX or at least the 58x Jubilee. They're a step up

the HD650's are likely the best bet to suit my taste. With drop making them a more reasonable purchase, it's a no brainer.

Which budget friendly dac/amp combo pairs well with the 6xx's? Some Schitt perhaps?

 

[Lay.]

I would personally rank HD598 above HD600 -series for FPS gaming only. I have HD660S at the moment and I have played games with them. They absolutely sound better than HD598 but I have to keep the volume higher to be able to hear the footsteps etc. and I get listening fatigue.

HD598 competitive
HD660S fun and decently competitive
HD800S fun and competitive

Just my personal opinion as a 95% FPS gamer.

 

[X-Frame]

RE: Creative SoundblasterX G6

Astro Mixamp: This is probably the one a lot of newcomers would probably be interested in. Unfortunately, it has been many years since I've owned any Mixamp, and I can't say what improvements, if any have been made since. All I know is that the older Mixamps (2013 and older), didn't have particularly good internals either in their dacs or amp stages. I would choose a G6 over the Mixamp 99% of the time. I believe the main benefit of choosing a Mixamp over the G6 is the game/voice volume mixing on the fly. Even then, I still would lean heavily towards the G6 due to all its other strengths over the Mixamp, including better virtual surround, cleaner, more powerful amplifier, its line/optical out properties, and more.

So I currently have an Astro Mixamp Pro TR -- the prior generation now as they recent updated according to their website. The main benefit I use the Mixamp for is because with the large knob I can bias more chat volume versus game volume. I play on PS4.

According to the above, the G6 does not have a similar knob or feature. It's not something I need to use constantly however -- for anyone with a PS4 -- what is the "long way" to achieve a similar result as the Mixamp game/voice volume biasing? What settings or volumes in PS4 or whatnot would I need to change to bias more volume chat?

If it's not too difficult or inconvenient I will likely get the G6 and replace the Mixamp. Thank you!

 

[Lay.]

RE: Creative SoundblasterX G6



So I currently have an Astro Mixamp Pro TR -- the prior generation now as they recent updated according to their website. The main benefit I use the Mixamp for is because with the large knob I can bias more chat volume versus game volume. I play on PS4.

According to the above, the G6 does not have a similar knob or feature. It's not something I need to use constantly however -- for anyone with a PS4 -- what is the "long way" to achieve a similar result as the Mixamp game/voice volume biasing? What settings or volumes in PS4 or whatnot would I need to change to bias more volume chat?

If it's not too difficult or inconvenient I will likely get the G6 and replace the Mixamp. Thank you!

My MixAmp TR is collecting dust in my closet. Just update the G6 firmware with PC and you have the game/chat control with the knob.

It is not that straight forward though...


Interaction

1. When connected to PS4, G6 will start up in Master Volume Control Mode.
2. Press and hold Volume Knob to switch to Side Tone Mode (RED Volume LED)
3. Press and hold Volume Knob again to switch to Game/Chat Mode (PINK Volume LED)

 

[X-Frame]

My MixAmp TR is collecting dust in my closet. Just update the G6 firmware with PC and you have the game/chat control with the knob.

It is not that straight forward though...


Interaction

1. When connected to PS4, G6 will start up in Master Volume Control Mode.
2. Press and hold Volume Knob to switch to Side Tone Mode (RED Volume LED)
3. Press and hold Volume Knob again to switch to Game/Chat Mode (PINK Volume LED)

That sound very simple, and perfectly fine to go through so that I'd benefit from the much better internals compared to the Mixamp. Do I need to always have a PC connected to it for this? My personal computer is a Mac, but I have a PC work laptop that won't always be home with me (though now it is because of quarantine).

I know that the G6 has tons of other surround modes and stuff, though even with the Mixamp I just keep it on Stereo all the time and no EQ so that when I game and listen to Spotify it sounds normal.

 

[Lay.]

Do I need to always have a PC connected to it for this? My personal computer is a Mac, but I have a PC work laptop that won't always be home with me (though now it is because of quarantine).

No. Only when you make changes to the settings or update the firmware.

 

[deadchip12]

Just want to update on the current pop/click issue of my g6. Once I switch from Creative driver to Microsoft Windows driver (USB Audio 2.0) under Device Manager, the pop/click issue is gone. However, if I try the g6 on another computer with Creative driver then there is no pop/click. So it seems my particular pc has problem with Creative driver. Any idea?

 

[halcyon]

Just want to update on the current pop/click issue of my g6. Once I switch from Creative driver to Microsoft Windows driver (USB Audio 2.0) under Device Manager, the pop/click issue is gone. However, if I try the g6 on another computer with Creative driver then there is no pop/click. So it seems my particular pc has problem with Creative driver. Any idea?
However, if I try the g6 on another computer with Creative driver then there is no pop/click. So it seems my particular pc has problem with Creative driver. Any idea?
Just want to update on the current pop/click issue of my g6. Once I switch from Creative driver to Microsoft Windows driver (USB Audio 2.0) under Device Manager, the pop/click issue is gone. However, if I try the g6 on another computer with Creative driver then there is no pop/click. So it seems my particular pc has problem with Creative driver. Any idea?

1. Download USB Tree view, start it and view all your USB controller / device tree with it
https://www.downloadcrew.com/article/32197-usb_device_tree_viewer

2. Locate the controller in which your G6 is attached to
3. Make sure there is ZERO other USB devices attached to that USB controller in adition to G6 (i.e. remove and re-attach usb cables on your computer until you have put them into slots in which they don't share stream bandwith with G6)

If this does not work, youre mother probably has too high/erratic DPC latency and there's very little you can do about it.

https://www.thesycon.de/eng/latency_check.shtml

 

[deadchip12]

1. Download USB Tree view, start it and view all your USB controller / device tree with it
2. Locate the controller in which your G6 is attached to
3. Make sure there is ZERO other USB devices attached to that USB controller in adition to G6 (i.e. remove and re-attach usb cables on your computer until you have put them into slots in which they don't share stream bandwith with G6)

If this does not work, youre mother probably has too high/erratic DPCI latency and there's very little you can do about it.

Thanks. I’ll try. But if it is because of the motherboard, why is the issue solved when Microsoft driver is used instead of Creative?