Voodoochile
Supafly & The Funky Pimps
- Joined
- Sep 13, 2002
- Posts
- 4,883
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- 14
I think you'll like it; I know the HD is a great sounding amp. It's a nice, straightforward design, and works very well with no drama.
Originally Posted by Voodoochile /img/forum/go_quote.gif I think you'll like it; I know the HD is a great sounding amp. It's a nice, straightforward design, and works very well with no drama. |
Originally Posted by JeepnHeel /img/forum/go_quote.gif Thanks-- good to hear. I was initially looking at a Little Dot MKIII, but decided to go for a bit more versatility, as I'll be using both Grado's and Senn's eventually. I should have known then that I'd have trouble just going a 'bit' more, but such is life... Your handle is actually one of the first tracks to be played through it (have a mix of old/new Jimi vinyl at the top of the proverbial stack). |
Originally Posted by snejk /img/forum/go_quote.gif Thanks for the impression and rankings Semi. After getting the T1 I sometimes feel that some voices are too dark, or maybe full is a better word. I only have two 5751 tubes, the Sylvania Gold Gray plate and Groove tubes 5751 tube. Both exhibit this but the GT to a lesser extent. When I got the T1 I tested both with my MAD amp and my Naim Headline (SS) and quickly prefered the MAD. But recently I tried the Naim again and while some "magic" gets lost the bass control is slightly improved and the above mentioned darkness/fullness is reduced. Which tube do you guys think has the greatest chance of reducing this darkness in voices? |
Originally Posted by gknix /img/forum/go_quote.gif Couldn't really find it around, if anyone could redirect me, comment on this. How does the Ear+ HD Super II and Ear+ HD differ? Worth the upgrade? |
If you haven't soldered in a while, or ever, go to Rat Shack and pick up a few terminal strips and some wire that's the same gauge (I don't recall off hand), and practice. Heat the joint, then add the solder. The joint should be shiny, not matte. Matte (fuzzy) is cold, which is not good. Cut to lengths so that the wires run parallel to the sides of the chassis, with 90 degree bends.