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MAD Ear+ Purist HD thread.

Discussion in 'Headphone Amps (full-size)' started by lmilhan, May 22, 2007.
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  1. stephanemtl
    I need to replace my two 12B4A tubes. Can I use 12B4 (minus A) tubes instead? Is there a difference? tks
     
  2. JoeDoe
    66f0dcc2-d0fc-41ad-a077-27202fa8cd58.jpg
     
     
     
    Very proud new MAD owner here. Running JRMC > DACport LX > MAD for my buttoned RS1s! What a sound!
     
    I've got a Raytheon 5751 windmill in front and some sort of Raytheons in back. 
     
    My question for you guys is: Will rolling some NOS GE's in the power position change SQ at all? Or is that negligible at best? Also, I don't really care to have 10 audio tubes on hand, but maybe buying one or two more would be nice. Suggestions for those that won't set me back more than $50 a pop?
     
  3. DeadEars
    Congrats on your new amp!  Perfect match with the RS cans. 
     
    I don't recommend spending money on the output tubes, except to have some spares.  They DO make a difference, but not enough relative to the front end tubes.  You'll get a lot more excitement & interesting variations with the input tubes, altho you have one of the best in the Raytheon.  I also like the relatively cheap GE 5-star black plates and some JG gray plate GE's which are a bit more relaxed and holistic in my system.
     
    Have fun!
     
  4. whirlwind
    I know, right.
     
    What a nice combo....congrats.
     
    No, no need to mess with the two back tubes....best tube I found for the RS1i combo was the Sylvania 5751 triple mica black plate..
     
    Enjoy your music. [​IMG] 
     
    I see the dampers on your tubes, are your tubes microphonic ?
     
  5. JoeDoe

    Thanks!

    I have not noticed any microphonics. Honestly I've owned those dampers for about a year but I was using an amp that had tubes that were just a hair too small for them. Just trying to make them feel loved :)
     
  6. whirlwind
    Ha ha.......at least they look pretty cool on the tubes, that is a great pic.
     
    I listened to the Mad & RS1i  a lot, and I just loved it for my genres of music, which is mostly blues, classic rock, rock mostly......the synergy is off the hook.
     
    For what it is worth, the Mad Ear can power 300 ohm cans very nicely too.  [​IMG] 
     
    wormsdriver likes this.
  7. stephanemtl
    Any one here uses the 2 sets of inputs on their HD Ear+?
     
    When I plug in a second rca source, the sound of the first source is affected.... adding noise to high frequencies... even if the 2nd source, a dac, is turned off.
     
    ???
     
  8. justthinking
     
    It is normal, the 2 inputs on the back of the MAD EAR+ HD are designed to be in loop, which means the signal from one input is passed on to the other input jack and let you connect to a separated preamp (unaltered, no volume control by headphone amp)
     
    The output jack are used for passive preamp funcion which let you connect to a power amp and use your MAD EAR+ HD as volume control
     
  9. parbaked

    Read the manual and you will understand how to operate your amp: https://hollowstate.netfirms.com/manuals/Eplus%20HD%20users%20manual.pdf
     
    Connections are all explained on page 3
     
  10. stephanemtl
    Thank you, Justthinking and parbaked. 
     
    Quote:
     
     
     
  11. DeadEars
    In mine, I installed a tiny DPDT switch between the input jacks.  The switch allows me to plug in two different inputs and switch between them.  Otherwise two inputs actually are in parallel all the time, which only works if only one of them is active and there are no components on the output of the other device to interact with the active one. 
     
    In my system,I have one input connect to the DAC output from my computer and the other connected to the output of a Modwright Transporter (currently set up as an output device for Roon).
     
    The switch install required drilling a tiny hole for the mini-toggle switch in the small space between the jacks, and some careful soldering of the input wires.  The output from each jack each go to an end of the switch (signal wire + ground) and the original wires to the first stage of the amplifier are connected to the center two pins on the switch.   Mine is set up so that the toggle points to the input device which makes it easy to figure out visually where it is connected.
     
    Hope this helps!
     
    wormsdriver likes this.
  12. canali
    thought i'd join this thread.
     
    my rig is simple and im considering upgrading:
    laptop t->iFi mercury cable -> iFi micro iDSD -> Ear+ purist.
    http://www.mapletreeaudio.com/
    my ear + purist amp is 8 yrs old...just had it looked over by a tube amp specialist
    here in vancouver (space tech labs) and is in great sonic condition (lightly used actually)
     
    i was considering sending back my amp to lloyd to tweak it given its age
    my cans: senn hd650 and sony closed 7520.
    but am ideally seeking an amp that is versatile with a wide range of cans, should i change things around.
     
    thanks everyone.
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
     
  13. canali
    Well I spoke with lloyd (such a nice gent to deal with)
    and am going to send the unit back to him for a refresher/update/new tubes.

    Why spend $1000 starting new when this unit still has so much praise for it.

    lloyd's (edited) reply to me is below, when i was asking about the different models
    on his current site and what tweaks could be one to my 8 yr old ear + purist to make it as best sounding as possible
    ...again my cans: senn hd650 and sony mdr7520

    The price of the Super II reflects the additional power which requires a larger power supply and more expensive output tubes (EL84). Its sonic character is remarkably like that of the Ear+ HD. I would remind you that the choice of driver tube in your amp (12AX7/5751/etc. ) greatly influences the sound including the perception of detail and transparency. I don't know how much you have played with this aspect, but it has more effect than any other change you can make.
     
    I think what I will do with your amp is replace the output caps with polypropylene (Panasonic), and make sure you have Tantalum film plate resistors and new Nichicon Muse cathode bypass caps in the driver stage. I'll give you some cosmetic upgrade choices. I don't have a wide variety of 12AX7 types here as I like to standardize, which these days means JJ or Sovtek 5751s. The JJ are more detailed and the Sovteks more punchy.
     
  14. whirlwind
    Yes, Lloyd is a great gentleman....and a wonderful amp builder.
     
  15. canali

    Would be really interesting to find a sound comparison of similarly priced tube amps between Woo, Schiit, Mad (etc)...but I haven't found such.
     
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