[Slater]

Squished to make the 2 pins narrower?
Or, spread to to make the 2 pins wider?

I prefer to spread my pins wider (ie splaying) vs bringing them closer together, but either way works. You only need to bend the pins just enough (towards or away from one another) so that they grip better.

 

[Slater]

Someone on here (I forget their name) did a teardown of the 4, 8 and 16 TRN cables and concluded that the 16 core seemed to be superior in the soldering technique used on each end, vs the 4 and 8 core versions.

That was me.

And the deal was that the 6 and 8 wire TRN wires had fake wires that weren’t connected to anything, whereas the 16 wire version of the same TRN cable (which is made by a different/better OEM supplier) did have all 16 wires connected.

 

[SinisterDev]

That was me.

And the deal was that the 6 and 8 wire TRN wires had fake wires that weren’t connected to anything, whereas the 16 wire version of the same TRN cable (which is made by a different/better OEM supplier) did have all 16 wires connected.

Ah, thanks for clearing that up for me Slater! I've been reading through so much info on here today lol.
Well then I'm happy I ordered the 16 core version. Really looking forward to checking them out.

 

[Barusu Lamperouge]

Ah, thanks for clearing that up for me Slater! I've been reading through so much info on here today lol.
Well then I'm happy I ordered the 16 core version. Really looking forward to checking them out.

A word of advice on those 16 cores, they're little delicate and avoid using them while gymming/traveling. Good for desktop use and are comfortable as well.

 

[SinisterDev]

A word of advice on those 16 cores, they're little delicate and avoid using them while gymming/traveling. Good for desktop use and are comfortable as well.

Thanks for the heads up. I'm actually kinda disappointed to hear that they're a bit fragile. I was hoping they'd be more durable than the stock ones. However, I don't really travel much. I'd mostly be using them at home. Part of the reason why I was looking for a replacement was to have a backup just in case, and have one without a mic too, and to have a durable cable that also has a chin slider. I really like to listen to music while I'm doing stuff around the house. Cleaning, cooking, random projects, or just relaxing in bed. These stock cables on the C10's aren't bad, but im noticing they tangle up easily. And since this cable has a mic, trying to use a twist tie as a makeshift slider doesn't work well.

Can you make any other recommendations for cables for the CCA C10?

 

[Barusu Lamperouge]

Thanks for the heads up. I'm actually kinda disappointed to hear that they're a bit fragile. I was hoping they'd be more durable than the stock ones. However, I don't really travel much. I'd mostly be using them at home. Part of the reason why I was looking for a replacement was to have a backup just in case, and have one without a mic too, and to have a durable cable that also has a chin slider. I really like to listen to music while I'm doing stuff around the house. Cleaning, cooking, random projects, or just relaxing in bed. These stock cables on the C10's aren't bad, but im noticing they tangle up easily. And since this cable has a mic, trying to use a twist tie as a makeshift slider doesn't work well.

Can you make any other recommendations for cables for the CCA C10?

Nicehck 16 cores are really nice for the same price. Think its 043 or 042 in the list.

 

[iamkn]

Hello!

Does anyone own both the Linsoul HC-08 HiFi OCC 8 Strands 19 Core Braided Earphone Cable & NICEHCK 16 Core High Purity Copper Cable?

Which do you think is a better cable?

Thank you so much!

 

[SilverEars]

Some updates on measuring resistances of cables. I finaly got some pure copper micro alligator clips, but I still feel I don't have the ideal lead to grapple the right pin on the 3.5/2.5mm jack.

If we take into consideration a male jack going into a female opening, we have to think about the way the connection is touching. The way the alligator clips touch the metal isn't a precisly the same amout as actually plugging in that will not provide accurate results.

Using a DMM to measure cable resistance ended in futile effort, but learned how important the area of metal to metal contact is in effecting resistance.

I also found the cheap Zoyi ZT109 to be of questionable accuracy. The value of resistance keeps droping in increments of .01ohm very slowly over time. I wonder if it's just an issue of being slow to register? I'm sure it has to do with area of contact with leads. I think leads needs same amout of contact as when plugged in. Resistivity does depend on area of the conductor, thus in this case, amout of surface contact.

Perhaps my testing procedures are not what it should be. @hakuzen any feedbacks?

 

[hakuzen]

@hakuzen Do you know of a device that you put between the source/amp and cable to the iem that you can vary the impedance from 1 to 10 ohms? With 3.5mm male output, and female input?

Also, I'm looking to measure output impedance of my DAP, have you done a measurement like that? How do you go about doing it? I was thinking of cutting a 3.5mm cable, and clip a 1 ohm resistor in between ground and one of the channels to see what RMS voltage I get, and figure out the internal resistance from the voltage divider rule. I wonder if this is safe or would I short out the headphone out with such a small load?

Yes, I've measured output impedance of some sources. You can find some of them here:
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/the...st-3-tutorial-in-post-2.800208/#post-12386883

Ended using decade resistance boxes for these measurements, because it's easier than changing resistors and you can set the exact load you like (compared with variable resistors).
Own Time Electronics 1051 (expensive accurate one, got a fabulous deal to get it), and chinese ZX21.


They are expensive. You can get cheaper but less accurate and less durable boxes. Like this (around $14, chinese J2361):
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33054109967.html

You can try this one, but you'll have to confirm and readjust every setting with an accurate multimeter, because resistance tends to fluctuate, and it's far from accurate. It's cheap and saves you much effort.

You'll also need connectors and cables. Instead of cutting a cable + 3.5mm plug, you can purchase a DIY plug directly, no cable, and use its contacts.
Or you can use balun connectors (like I did); They work well, have low resistance (around 6mOhms average), and aren't expensive.

This kind of baluns, together with following 2mm->4mm banana adapter, and the stackable 4mm banana cables and alligator clips I linked before, are the best combo I could find for measurements (after spending hundreds in worse equipment, which I wouldn't mind to sell for cheap).

You'll also need some adapters, mostly splitters. You can buy decent ones, or DIY them with baluns (no solder) or plugs (soldered), and wire.

With this equipment, you'll be able to "add" output impedance to check frequency response change of balanced armatures; or to add a known load to measure source output impedance.

For measuring output impedance with a voltage divider, I don't recommend going so low (1ohm). It wouldn't be a problem while you use very low power; but you are safer by using 20ohms, for example, and accuracy stays good enough.
So you could use an impedance adapter of 20ohms (together with an splitter, a balun to close the circuit, and another balun for measuring voltage), instead of the decade resistance box, for this purpose. But choose a plain impedance adapter, like the cheapest at aliexpress; Dunu adapters aren't plain, they use small resistors in parallel, so they are useless for this purpose.

Also, will you ever get into measuring capacitance and inductance?

I've started measuring capacitance between positive wires and ground or negative wires. Measurements have been added to my list of cables measurements. You can also measure capacitance between side wires.
It gives you a hint of signal isolation; guess this could slightly affect to crosstalk and background noise; but haven't got conclusive results; you have to consider that amount of cores multiply this capacitance.
About inductance, I'll start measuring it when I get the time for it (I'm very busy now).

Some updates on measuring resistances of cables. I finaly got some pure copper micro alligator clips, but I still feel, I don't have the ideal lead to grapple the right pin on the 3.5/2.5mm jack.

If we take into comsideration a male jack going into a female opening, we have to think about the way the connection is touching. The way the alligator clips touch the metal isn't a precisly the same amout as actually plugging in that will not provide accurate results.

Using a DMM to measure cable resistance ended in futile effort, but learned how important the area of metal to metal contact is in effecting resistance.

I also found the cheap Zoyi ZT109 to be of questionable accuracy. The value of resistance keeps droping in increments of .01ohm very slowly over time. I wonder if it's just an issue of being slow to register? I'm sure it has to do with area of contact with leads. I think leads needs same amout of contact as when plugged in. Resistivity does depend on area of the conductor, thus in this case, amout of surface contact.

Perhaps my testing procedures are not what it should be. @hakuzen any feedbacks?

Yes, I warned you about those small clips:

these are small copper clips (they don't scratch plugs, they are softer but less secure clipping)

And yes, cheap Zoyi ZT109 accuracy is very questionable. I use to wait till the reading is stable; guess some capacitance is the responsible of the decreasing reading. That's why I ended with YR1030, as mentioned many times.
My measurements journey is plenty of issues, deceptions, and wasted money. That's why I share many options, indicating pros and cons together with prices: to let you choose wiser than I blindly did.

 

[courierdriver]

I prefer to spread my pins wider (ie splaying) vs bringing them closer together, but either way works. You only need to bend the pins just enough (towards or away from one another) so that they grip better.

Trying very hard not to make a sexual reference here. Muuusssttt ressiisstt!

 

[pstickne]

Thanks! Nevertheless, the sound is not as impressive as I would have expected, but that is another story. Just want to share my appreciation here.

Sound is made more impressive by different IEMs, tips, or EQ - select those to fit/taste

Glad you have a pretty new cable!

 

[TooPoorForHiFi]

Hello

Spec wise, Is this Cable any Good?


Thanks

 

[hakuzen]

Hello

Spec wise, Is this Cable any Good?

Thanks

it's interesting, because of the intermediate teflon (low dielectric constant) insulating.
it isn't litz, the strands are not annealed/insulated independently. but signals (cords) are teflon insulated. it's a way of keeping low capacitance between signals.
final TPU sleeving helps to keep lower microphonics.
you get around 27.3AWG equivalent section per signal. it will be around 250mOhm.
guess up-occ wire is better quality copper than that pure OFC copper. considering this and the price, i'd say it can be a good cable, but inferior value to up-occ cables in my list.

 

[pstickne]

Hello

Spec wise, Is this Cable any Good?


Thanks

• It looks pretty.
• It looks durable, claims TPU.
• Plug does NOT appear to have exit reinforcement.
• Connectors, and Y look decent. No slider though.
• Doesn’t have plastic over ears, claims to be soft.
• Has simple twist instead of braid.

So, if those things are in agreement with your own preferences, why not buy?

And that’s how I feel about cable “specs”..

 

[pstickne]

Hello

Spec wise, Is this Cable any Good?


Thanks

With respect to plugs, I like obvious reinforcement as it can be easy to break solder with too much movement. It really depends on if there is any (internal and/or exit) bracing, which is hard to see in the images.

If the plug can be opened then it should be easy to reinforce DIY.

Attached is one of
my ideal-looking plugs. It has a “rugged elegance”.