Low end. Cheap. Generic. Otherwise bang for buck cable thread!
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hakuzen

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Any Recommendation for PURE COPPER 2.5mm Balanced MMCX Cable around $100 USD?
1- cable 170 (neotech frozen up-occ copper litz, 4 cores; 8 cores version, cable 171 costs more than $100)
2- cable 165 (neotech frozen up-occ copper no-litz) or no-litz version of cable 170 (also in same store)
3- cable 125 (bolder bass than up-occ wires, but smaller soundstage)
4- cable 133, copper version (in the line of 125 sound, maybe not so bold bass, but plugs and build are better).
5- cable 140 (very good sound with a light, thin, and very flexible cable, if you need these attributes).
most of these use to be below $80, and even cheaper.
for higher price but superb value, cable 171.

edit: forgot my beloved cable 133, which is a bit more expensive, but can be found below $100 sometimes
 
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TooPoorForHiFi

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1- cable 170 (neotech frozen up-occ copper litz, 4 cores; 8 cores version, cable 171 costs more than $100)
2- cable 165 (neotech frozen up-occ copper no-litz) or no-litz version of cable 170 (also in same store)
3- cable 125 (bolder bass than up-occ wires, but smaller soundstage)
all these use to be below $80, and even cheaper.
for higher price but superb value, cable 171.
Are you referring to Building your own cable? I'm looking for Pre-Built that I can just buy or have someone built is for me.
 
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hakuzen

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Palash

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post-15069274
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superuser1

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post-15069400
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dairy

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Which iem do you want to use the cable with?
I actually already have this cable but don't have the equipment to measure it. I'm currently using them with my Final E5000s after the original cable broke and am wondering if it'll make much of a difference if I upgrade the cable, especially as it's a dynamic driver.
 
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lukedss

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Ha thanks for the vote of confidence!
Cable is amazing, lighter than i thought, beautiful looking. Will update with photos. The 2 Pin .78 doesn't click seal with my iSine which is disappointing but not his fault.

Need an interconnect now, did someone on here talking about getting some made from 24 or 28AWG?

He will make me an interconnect, I always wanted a Fatty stubby one, maybe I will have him do it in silver for the bling factor
 
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lukedss

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IMG_20190718_205021_529.jpg 20190718_184114.jpg Photos going in the iSine thread as well so you'll have to excuse the whole headband palava
 
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Slater

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I'm hoping someone like @hakuzen or @Slater might be able to help me out here. I finally got to start listening to my new TFZ No.3 last night and wanted to swap out the stock 3.5 mm cable for my JCally 2.5 mm balanced one, which I am currently using on my KZ ZS10 PRO. I have another identical JCally cable on the way, because it appeared in pictures that the TFZ No.3 was using the same type of C connector 2 pin that the KZ uses, and I wanted one to use as well with the No.3. It turns out that the raised connection port on the No.3 is slightly larger than the KZ'S and the shroud on the JCally cable is just a bit too small to pass over the raised connector, so I cant get the JCally cable to fit. A search on Aliexpress turned up nothing I could find. I am really bummed out, because I really like to use all my earphones in balanced mode from my Fiio Q1MK2. Does anyone know if there are any balanced 2.5 cables out there with that C type connection system, that will fit the TFZ No.3?

Has anyone tried to mod one of these cable connectors in an effort to get it to fit?

Looking at the No.3 stock cable, I can tell that the diameter opening is just a smidge bigger than the JCally's. Was wondering about maybe trying to scrape out some of the plastic shrouding inside the JCally cable to make the opening a bit bigger but I have no idea if this will work, or even what kind of tool would be small and sharp enough to attempt this. Anyone have any advice on this for me? Thanks!
The only TFZ I own is the Series 2, which I assume has the same connector as the Series 3.

Anyways, the socket on the IEM is similar but a slightly different shape. The TFZ cable fits on the ZS10 Pro, but the JC Ally and KZ “Paragraph C” cables do not fit the TFZ.

You have 2 options:

1. Use a regular 2-pin cable on the TFZ (but it will stick up a little)
2. Take an Xacto blade and shave down the corners of the TFZ socket so the shape is more like the KZ Paragraph C shape. Then the KZ and JC Ally cables will fit the TFZ.
I wanted to get back to you on this.

It is possible to carefully shave down the TFZ socket on each shell to be the same size and shape as the QDC/KZ Paragraph C socket.

I used an Xacto knife with a brand new blade (ie very sharp), and then I carefully shaved away paper thin slices (a very little at a time).

First, I shaved it down until the length of the TFZ socket matched the length of the KZ socket.

Next, I shaved it down until the width of the TFZ socket matched the width of the KZ socket).

Then the last step is to change the TFZ socket from rectangular to the curved shape of the KZ socket. To do that I shaved off the sharp corners of the rectangle at 45 degree angles.

So technically the shape I made is like this (modified TFZ socket):
ACC38A77-2AC2-435E-BBC1-1BC3F0AA5C9F.jpeg

Instead of like this (KZ socket):
D5416901-7331-4CC7-B604-EBA7DF84C9E4.jpeg

While the corners aren’t perfectly rounded, the overall shape is close enough that it works just fine. Now I can use KZ and JC Ally Paragraph C/QDC cables on my TFZ Series 2.

Note that the height of the KZ Paragraph C socket is taller than the TFZ socket (modded or not), so while the KZ and JC Ally cables technically fit on the modified TFZ socket, the reduced height of the TFZ socket makes the cable connection slightly less stable. To account for this, I made the TFZ socket a fairly tight fit, which can be controlled by the amount of material that’s removed from the TFZ socket. By making the length and width just a hair larger than the KZ socket, it makes the cable connection fit much tighter (and therefore more stable).

I can post photos if it would be helpful.

Do the mod at your own risk!

It is not a difficult mod, as the TFZ socket is made of soft plastic and trims very easily and cleanly. However, this mod is irreversible, and you need to decide if modding your (however much $) TFZ IEM is worth it. My Series 2 cost $10, so if I messed it up I wouldn’t have cared. Luckily, I didn’t mess it up though, but that doesn’t mean someone else with 10 thumbs and terrible eyesight wouldn’t mess it up.

Bottom line is that I take zero responsibility.
 
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courierdriver

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I wanted to get back to you on this.

It is possible to carefully shave down the TFZ socket on each shell to be the same size and shape as the QDC/KZ Paragraph C socket.

I used an Xacto knife with a brand new blade (ie very sharp), and then I carefully shaved away paper thin slices (a very little at a time).

First, I shaved it down until the length of the TFZ socket matched the length of the KZ socket.

Next, I shaved it down until the width of the TFZ socket matched the width of the KZ socket).

Then the last step is to change the TFZ socket from rectangular to the curved shape of the KZ socket. To do that I shaved off the sharp corners of the rectangle at 45 degree angles.

So technically the shape I made is like this (modified TFZ socket):


Instead of like this (KZ socket):


While the corners aren’t perfectly rounded, the overall shape is close enough that it works just fine. Now I can use KZ and JC Ally Paragraph C/QDC cables on my TFZ Series 2.

Note that the height of the KZ Paragraph C socket is taller than the TFZ socket (modded or not), so while the KZ and JC Ally cables technically fit on the modified TFZ socket, the reduced height of the TFZ socket makes the cable connection slightly less stable. To account for this, I made the TFZ socket a fairly tight fit, which can be controlled by the amount of material that’s removed from the TFZ socket. By making the length and width just a hair larger than the KZ socket, it makes the cable connection fit much tighter (and therefore more stable).

I can post photos if it would be helpful.

Do the mod at your own risk!

It is not a difficult mod, as the TFZ socket is made of soft plastic and trims very easily and cleanly. However, this mod is irreversible, and you need to decide if modding your (however much $) TFZ IEM is worth it. My Series 2 cost $10, so if I messed it up I wouldn’t have cared. Luckily, I didn’t mess it up though, but that doesn’t mean someone else with 10 thumbs and terrible eyesight wouldn’t mess it up.

Bottom line is that I take zero responsibility.
Many thanks for the response and great suggestions, Slater! You are the shizzle, baby! Lol! For the time being, I think I'm gonna hold off on such drastic irreversible moods till I decide if I'm gonna keep this set or not. My second listening session with them was better than the first (I switched out the TRN balanced cable to the stock 3.5, and switched out the NewBee foam tips, for a set of large Spinfit CP145) and I got a better sound (to my ears, anyway)...but even with EQ, I still don't like the sound signature as much as my KanasPro or ZS10 PRO. I'm gonna continue to break them in with the stock 3.5 unbalanced first for a bunch more hours, and maybe try a few more types of tips. By then, I hope I'll have a better idea of their sound. Depending on whether or not I decide I like em enough to keep, I'll at least invest in a Xacto knife. At the moment though, I don't want to make any irreversible mods, just in case I want to sell them. BTW, you described me perfectly in your post...10 thumbs and poor eyesite! Not the best when it comes to accurately measuring stuff, or using hand tools. LMAO!
 
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baskingshark

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Many thanks for the response and great suggestions, Slater! You are the shizzle, baby! Lol! For the time being, I think I'm gonna hold off on such drastic irreversible moods till I decide if I'm gonna keep this set or not. My second listening session with them was better than the first (I switched out the TRN balanced cable to the stock 3.5, and switched out the NewBee foam tips, for a set of large Spinfit CP145) and I got a better sound (to my ears, anyway)...but even with EQ, I still don't like the sound signature as much as my KanasPro or ZS10 PRO. I'm gonna continue to break them in with the stock 3.5 unbalanced first for a bunch more hours, and maybe try a few more types of tips. By then, I hope I'll have a better idea of their sound. Depending on whether or not I decide I like em enough to keep, I'll at least invest in a Xacto knife. At the moment though, I don't want to make any irreversible mods, just in case I want to sell them. BTW, you described me perfectly in your post...10 thumbs and poor eyesite! Not the best when it comes to accurately measuring stuff, or using hand tools. LMAO!
I didn't like the sound of the TFZ No. 3 out of the box. After listening for a week or so, then I grew to like the sound more and more (not sure if it is brain burn in or actual burn in haha). It's my go to pair now for a chilling warm, relaxing fatigue free listening session. So I'm glad I gave it a chance.
Whether it can compete with the Kansas Pro is another story though.
 
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courierdriver

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I didn't like the sound of the TFZ No. 3 out of the box. After listening for a week or so, then I grew to like the sound more and more (not sure if it is brain burn in or actual burn in haha). It's my go to pair now for a chilling warm, relaxing fatigue free listening session. So I'm glad I gave it a chance.
Whether it can compete with the Kansas Pro is another story though.
Yeah, I agree with you. I'm not giving up on them yet. But so far, compared to the KPE and ZS10 PRO, these still don't give me the detail that I like. The bass is not as hard hitting as either the KPE or 10 PRO, or as detailed, imho. Mids are a bit back compared to those sets as well. The treble not as sparkly as I would like; in fact, to me it sounds rather dark and subdued. Kinda boring to me, actually. I find it hard to get engaged in the music. With dance tracks like Daft Punk's Lose Yourself to Dance, the No.3 fails to get me wanting to get my feet and body moving. Same goes for Get Lucky, from the same band. On The Tragically Hip's "Get Behind Anything", I'm usually swaying and bopping around to the great rhythms and clarity from my KANASPRO or 10 PRO, but I've just not been feeling that with the No.3. I'm hoping further break in will improve this set, but so far...I'm just not really feeling them. Too warm and laid back for my personal tastes.
 
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Slater

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Many thanks for the response and great suggestions, Slater! You are the shizzle, baby! Lol! For the time being, I think I'm gonna hold off on such drastic irreversible moods till I decide if I'm gonna keep this set or not.
Yeah, I think it’s wise not to make any permanent changes that could hurt resale, until you’re 100% sure you like them and will keep them.

Also, if you do decide to keep them and want to do the mod, it really does need some careful attention to detail. It may be best to ask a friend for help, like if you know anyone who works with small projects such as electronics or even woodworking (because many of the same skills will be useful for the mod).

Being just 0.5mm off when shaving down the plug can make the difference between them not fitting at all, fitting perfectly, or fitting really loose. And not to mention you have to make sure to keep all edges perfectly straight and square (in the X, Y, and Z axis) when trimming the stock socket.
 
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warriorpoet

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20190719_165804~2.jpg
Got my custom 4 core Electro Acousti 26AWG silver Litz in, and man, is it ever nice. I'll put a heatshrink slider on it in a bit, but for now, it's practically perfect- nice and light and transparent.
 

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