[Pharmaboy]

Just the word, "equalizer," brings back bad memories of those el cheapo 20-30 band parametric equalizers w/dozens of sliders & the cheapest possible parts. Just put one in your audio chain and hear the sound quality go down (even w/it bypassed)...worse w/it engaged. phase shift from hell.

Loki couldn't be more different. It's like no audio box I ever encountered. Heard it on good headphones (AFO) at CanJam NYC & this is what I found:

• it's tiny. really tiny for an EQ box. that means very little desktop space get used up
• it's as transparent as anything I've ever heard. Take it out of bypass w/the 4 pots centered (no change). Set one pot slightly up or down, then take it out of bypass--now there's a change, but it's really subtle; centered right in the advertised frequency; and nothing BUT frequency changed.

This is a very well put-together, transparent, subtle piece of hardware. Did I mention the price? It's crazy/inexpensive for what you get.

I fully intended to buy one to help tame an upper midrange anomaly in my desktop passive studio monitors--but then I rewired, added an electronic crossover, and everything got so much better that I don't "need" equalization now. I still may get one, just to play around with.

 

[Richsvt]

I had one of those 20 band EQs (BSR, I think) back in the 80s. Took me a while to realize why everything sounded so horrible until I unhooked it and threw it away. The only thing cool about it was the spectrum analyzer. Could spend hours watching it dance.

This little gem seems like magic. Just cool to make adjustments on the fly, even if I don't need to.

 

[riffrafff]

Yeah, the old consumer-grade slider equalizers had just tons of op-amps in them, each one adding to the noise. And you thought double-amping was bad!

 

[ScubaMan2017]

EQ's can be intimidating, But with a 4 band EQ...just start at 12oclock and go from there

With my Equalizer APO I have to go all over the place, more more difficult.

My toy Loki’s been ordered. Other than getting hosed by the FedEx-cancelling-Schiit-fiasco, I’m looking forward to the little silver box!

 

[TJ Max]

Is there a way to connect the Loki Mini to a the Jotunheim if the source is USB?

 

[VRacer-111]

Is there a way to connect the Loki Mini to a the Jotunheim if the source is USB?

No, Loki is analog input... needs some form of RCA output in your equipment chain before your amp.

 

[ScubaMan2017]

No, Loki is analog input... needs some form of RCA output in your equipment chain before your amp.

In my case, my (hopefully to be delivered this week) Loki will be using the following path:

Digital Source >>> Modi MB >>> Sys (passive switch) >>> Analog Loki Equalizer >>> Analog Magni3 >>> headphone(s).

Grundig Satellit multband radio >>> analog left-right RCA line out >>> Sys >>> Analog Loki Equalizer >>> ...

 

[ScubaMan2017]

Playing around with my new toy (after 1-2 days): I could use my Loki as a coffee cup warmer! Christ-on-a-cracker, that box runs warm. I stacked it above my Magni so as to allow more rapid head dispersion. Indeed, the 20 Hz knob (bass) is slightly skewed clockwise in its neutral position. Psshhh... I'll deal with it.

 

[Pavioni]

Playing around with my new toy (after 1-2 days): I could use my Loki as a coffee cup warmer! Christ-on-a-cracker, that box runs warm. I stacked it above my Magni so as to allow more rapid head dispersion. Indeed, the 20 Hz knob (bass) is slightly skewed clockwise in its neutral position. Psshhh... I'll deal with it.

I also received mine 2 days ago, all controls perfectly oriented. I was surprised at how warm it seemed so I shot it with my infrared thermometer. It reads 94* consistently whether being driven or not which is 18* warmer than the walls and desk in my office and 14* warmer than the FiiO A3 at my desk. Hmmm. Will report head to head comparison soon vs an old Audio Control 520B in my near field system (pair of Minimus 7W's and a Cambridge Soundworks Ensemble IV 5.25" passive sub) powered by a Dayton 15wpc mini-D amp.

 

[Pharmaboy]

This "Loki is very warm" direction in this thread is very interesting. Trying to look at this objectively:

• Schitt was apparently motivated to maintain the ultra-small factor of several other products in the Loki--allowing it to be stackable with them
• That stack is small, tidy, and cute (I've seen it). Easy to see why this form-factor makes sense in marketing terms
• But there's a price to be paid for that small form factor: no room inside or outside the case for heat-dissipation fins

My Liquid Carbon v2 (also rather small/on purpose) gets moderately warm after a couple hours use. Never measured it & have no way to measure it--but it may be near the 94 degrees mentioned above. LCs are prone to certain types of failure, which may or may not be a coincidence.

I honestly have no idea whether 94 degrees constant temperature, hour after hour, is harmful in any way to the internal components. Let's just say it probably isn't optimal heat management by Schitt.

 

[ScubaMan2017]

I also received mine 2 days ago, all controls perfectly oriented. I was surprised at how warm it seemed so I shot it with my infrared thermometer. It reads 94* consistently whether being driven or not which is 18* warmer than the walls and desk in my office and 14* warmer than the FiiO A3 at my desk. Hmmm. Will report head to head comparison soon vs an old Audio Control 520B in my near field system (pair of Minimus 7W's and a Cambridge Soundworks Ensemble IV 5.25" passive sub) powered by a Dayton 15wpc mini-D amp.

This "Loki is very warm" direction in this thread is very interesting. Trying to look at this objectively:

• Schitt was apparently motivated to maintain the ultra-small factor of several other products in the Loki--allowing it to be stackable with them
• That stack is small, tidy, and cute (I've seen it). Easy to see why this form-factor makes sense in marketing terms
• But there's a price to be paid for that small form factor: no room inside or outside the case for heat-dissipation fins

My Liquid Carbon v2 (also rather small/on purpose) gets moderately warm after a couple hours use. Never measured it & have no way to measure it--but it may be near the 94 degrees mentioned above. LCs are prone to certain types of failure, which may or may not be a coincidence.

I honestly have no idea whether 94 degrees constant temperature, hour after hour, is harmful in any way to the internal components. Let's just say it probably isn't optimal heat management by Schitt.

I contacted Schiit's technical support. Tom E. (at info@schiit.com ) gave me the following response: It is perfectly normal for the Loki to run warm. It will not affect performance, quality, or lifespan. I was hoping Schiit would be more specific with how they protect against thermal damage. Meh, it's enough for my peace-of-mind. That was interesting insight, @Pharmaboy ... I also appreciated the temperature observations, @Pavioni .

 

[technobear]

I contacted Schiit's technical support. Tom E. (at info@schiit.com ) gave me the following response: It is perfectly normal for the Loki to run warm. It will not affect performance, quality, or lifespan. I was hoping Schiit would be more specific with how they protect against thermal damage. Meh, it's enough for my peace-of-mind. That was interesting insight, @Pharmaboy ... I also appreciated the temperature observations, @Pavioni .

Thermal damage?

At 94 degrees (assuming Fahrenheit)?

I run my bath hotter than that and I have yet to suffer from thermal damage.

 

[Pavioni]

Yes,farenheit. This was the temp on the outside top case,no idea what it reaches inside. Contact me in 2 years and I'll open it up to measure it inside.
Ah,first world problems!

 

[ScubaMan2017]

Yes,farenheit. This was the temp on the outside top case,no idea what it reaches inside. Contact me in 2 years and I'll open it up to measure it inside.
Ah,first world problems!

Hell yeah. It's not something to freak out over.

 

[Pavioni]

How long ya reckon it'll keep my sausage biscuit warm?