[Luke Thomas]

As you move up the chain in DAC’s you‘ll see that every component plays a part in the overall resulting sound. I have an iFi Micro iTube2 in the chain with my V281 now and it might be a better tweak than the Loki with it’s bass boost, 3D+, and tube options. The xBass+ targets sub bass and it might be an alternate option to the Loki in your case. It gives the HD800S’s a very nice bump in bass. Since it’s really the only frequency they somewhat are lacking in.

I’m keeping the Loki in the mix with my TT2/HMS and Formula S, which is my reference setup. It plays a excellent role in tweaking the sound of various headphones I connect to it. The Hugo 2/iTube2/V281 or FA-10 is my second setup. It’s every bit as good as my reference one with added warmth and a more musical sound.

Thx this sounds like a bass booster. Will research

 

[wingtsun]

Thx this sounds like a bass booster. Will research

It will do this but it's much more than a bass booster.

 

[Luke Thomas]

schitt told me the Loki would be a good option for the lack of bass within the 800s headphones . And you think the Micro iTube2 could be a good or better option. I did research both with limited data available. Thanks

 

[wingtsun]

schitt told me the Loki would be a good option for the lack of bass within the 800s headphones . And you think the Micro iTube2 could be a good or better option. I did research both with limited data available. Thanks

I'd go for a Loki. Why? You can up the bass incrementally and you can also up (or down) 3 other channels to perfect the sound you like.

 

[Luke Thomas]

Thx actually the itube is unavailable. All say out of stock

 

[Slim1970]

schitt told me the Loki would be a good option for the lack of bass within the 800s headphones . And you think the Micro iTube2 could be a good or better option. I did research both with limited data available. Thanks

The Loki does add bass and it does it in incremental steps. The iTube2 options are +6 or +12 dB of bass boost. On some headphones it can be too much. So I do with I could dial it back a bit. So that’s one benefit the Loki has over the iTube2. The second one is it seems like the iTube2 is not available for purchase any longer and the Loki is. So that makes the decision a little easier

 

[wingtsun]

Thx actually the itube is unavailable. All say out of stock

So is the Loki but you can find them used.

 

[227qed]

Silly question. If I have all the knobs turned fully counterclockwise, am i turning down the bass and treble more than the mids by 6 dB? Is this supposed to sound neutral? I fear I’ve been making all my music /\ shaped.

 

[JamminVMI]

Silly question. If I have all the knobs turned fully counterclockwise, am i turning down the bass and treble more than the mids by 6 dB? Is this supposed to sound neutral? I fear I’ve been making all my music /\ shaped.

Neutral is the stop in the middle (12 o’clock). Yes, you’re turning those down - but hey, you were turning them ALL down!

 

[ThanatosVI]

Silly question. If I have all the knobs turned fully counterclockwise, am i turning down the bass and treble more than the mids by 6 dB? Is this supposed to sound neutral? I fear I’ve been making all my music /\ shaped.

All left is decreasing the frequencies, all in the middle is neutral.
If you want neutral I recommend using the little switch on the front to Bypass the circuit.

This way you can instantly switch between q desired setting and neutral.

And yes the 20Hz and 8kHz range change by 12db at Max, while the middle frequencies go by 6db, so you did indeed reduce treble and bass more than the rest

 

[227qed]

All left is decreasing the frequencies, all in the middle is neutral.
If you want neutral I recommend using the little switch on the front to Bypass the circuit.

This way you can instantly switch between q desired setting and neutral.

And yes the 20Hz and 8kHz range change by 12db at Max, while the middle frequencies go by 6db, so you did indeed reduce treble and bass more than the rest

Doh! That schiit is crazy! Funny enough, I’ve just been adding bass and treble back in thinking, “man, I must be a serious V-head adding in all that bass and treble”, when all along I’ve actually just been trying to get back closer to neutral.

No wonder my emu teak seemed so bass light. It’s kinda funny though, taking the bass out with Loki and adding it back in with the XBass on the ifi ican has actually resulted in a really pleasant and interesting low end. I’ve basically been taking the 6 dB out, adding about 10 dB back in with the xbass, and then probably adding 2-4 dB back in with the Loki depending on what I’m doing....so yeah. Back to neutral while also taking some of the top end sibilance those Fostex drivers can have.

 

[tameral]

Can you successfully enough EQ LCD-2s with the Loki? I've been looking around but having been able to find any feedback on this subject.

 

[tameral]

I got my loki m+ today. Really enjoy it so far. Helps out a lot with my LCD-2s. Second knob is stiff and a bit scratchy but probably can live with it.

 

[CB7FB8KgYh24E]

What are some non-permanent/invasive ways you guys use to mark your dials? I see with the new black revision they added an accent on the dial. But the silver version it's incredibly hard to see where the dial position is. I was thinking a sharpy? But would that not run off with your sweat quickly?

Just got the Loki Mini+ too, love it. Really allows you to tune the music to your liking and make up for deficits in your headphones. EVERYTHING sounds better now! And with the build quality, it's fun to twiddle with.

It does get relatively warm (who cares I suppose. But the Magni 3+ also gets pretty warm on its own so putting it on top or under of the Loki Mini+... I'm sure they're fine though, no doubt.), and the LED light is incredibly bright (much brighter than the Modi+ light), so I wish the power switch was on the front instead of the back. Just replace the LED with the power stick, viola

 

[VRacer-111]

I used a fine tipped sharpie on both the Ember and Loki knobs...

Fine tipped sharpie is still a bit too big to fully coat the channel... thinking the fine tipped art pins would get in there easily, but the ink wouldn't work... maybe if there was a very fine tipped paint pen.