[MIKELAP]

Thanks for the response, I think I'm going to try the Voskhods. Do you think this is a good listing? https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-x-Matche...sh=item2afc748411:g:BRAAAOSwJ6xgAzW8#viTabs_0
It's really close to where I live, but they don't seem to have the rocket logo, do the different versions have different sounds?

.If the tubes are tested and seller has good ratings go for it .Remember they dont need to be matched pairs so dont pay extra for this . As for any difference in sound i wouldnt know about the rocket branded 6ZHiP-EV i know the ones i had to me sounded very clean but again like Gibosi would say My ears and my gear lol .You have to try to see .

 

[RockstarRmgddn]

Ok, I found a quick fix for Voskhods 6ZH1P-EV / 6J1P-EV if you find the cymbals too loud like I did. It's called APO Equalizer. Just google it. It will work on all sounds from within windows on the selected output source. Turn off example.txt filter - it's an extended bass boost and not needed. On the right the values -2 for 16khz and -1 for 10khz worked for me. The sound is now pretty much perfect.

 

[MIKELAP]

Ok, I found a quick fix for Voskhods 6ZH1P-EV / 6J1P-EV if you find the cymbals too loud like I did. It's called APO Equalizer. Just google it. It will work on all sounds from within windows on the selected output source. Turn off example.txt filter - it's an extended bass boost and not needed. On the right the values -2 for 16khz and -1 for 10khz worked for me. The sound is now pretty much perfect.

I use APO and PEACE together to adjust my gaming mic nice programs or i also have a 15 band equalizer with MUSICBEE the music player .

 

[lupoal]

hi,

so I decided to build C3G to 6AK5 adapter by myself but... I've lost (again! ) the page with that fantastic diy guide (I mean that one starting with the pin production and then step by step to the final perfect result) to follow/get suggestions

in the last hour I'm searching this thread with all the keywords I can immagine without success ... ... could anybody help me?

edit ... page 553! yeah! (now I saved the address as "C3G to 6AK5 DIY adapter"... so I will find it also in the future )

 

[MIKELAP]

This will help

 

[lupoal]

Thanks a lot Mike...
now I’ve some doubts about pin out ... I’ve read at page 544 and the pin out doesn’t fit to what I’ve found using my tester inside the broken adapter in my hand... here is the picture of the adapter (inside)

this is the pin out

5654 C3G
1. 6
2 / 7. 2 / 7
3. 8
4. 1
5. 3
6. 4
7 / 2. 7 / 2

I’m confused

 

[MIKELAP]

Thanks a lot Mike...
now I’ve some doubts about pin out ... I’ve read at page 544 and the pin out doesn’t fit to what I’ve found using my tester inside the broken adapter in my hand... here is the picture of the adapter (inside)




this is the pin out

5654 C3G
1. 6
2 / 7. 2 / 7
3. 8
4. 1
5. 3
6. 4
7 / 2. 7 / 2

I’m confused

This is the diagram i used page 553 post 8295

 

[MIKELAP]

This is the diagram i used page 553 post 8295

My schematic has pin 7 to pin 1. Heater pin 1 and 8

 

[lupoal]

ok, does it mean that there are many possible different ways to connect pins (sound quite strange) or that those schematic connections name pins in diffent ways or the adapter from China in my hands is wrong or... ?

so I've checked again ad the pin #5 at C3G is not connected to anything in the adapter but just lived floating (the adapetr is the in-famous one you all know from ebay)... that adapter is terrible ... I will do mine following your scheme

 

[MIKELAP]

ok, does it mean that there are many possible different ways to connect pins (sound quite strange) or that those schematic connections name pins in diffent ways or the adapter from China in my hands is wrong or... ?

so I've checked again ad the pin #5 at C3G is not connected to anything in the adapter but just lived floating (the adapetr is the in-famous one you all know from ebay)... that adapter is terrible ... I will do mine following your scheme

Look closely at the pictures you cant go wrong pins are reversed

 

[Shane D]

Power cables... I suppose magic fuses will be next...

Are the 6HM5's your "go-to" tubes? I have an LD MKIII on its way to me and it has three sets of driver tubes:
2 X 6HM5 Yugoslavia
2 X Voshkad 6ZHIP-EV
2 X RTC 5654

I have already been looking at others, but I know that I just need to calm down, wait and try these out first.

 

[TrollDragon]

Are the 6HM5's your "go-to" tubes? I have an LD MKIII on its way to me and it has three sets of driver tubes:
2 X 6HM5 Yugoslavia
2 X Voshkad 6ZHIP-EV
2 X RTC 5654

I have already been looking at others, but I know that I just need to calm down, wait and try these out first.

I've had the Yugoslavian 6HM5s in my MKIV for the past 5+ years and have been my goto tubes. I have a pair of C3g but still have not had a chance to remove the tube cage from the MKIV and plug them in yet, I know they will be amazing and most likely replace the 6HM5.

I've rolled a tube or two in my MKIV.

 

[Shane D]

I've had the Yugoslavian 6HM5s in my MKIV for the past 5+ years and have been my goto tubes. I have a pair of C3g but still have not had a chance to remove the tube cage from the MKIV and plug them in yet, I know they will be amazing and most likely replace the 6HM5.

I've rolled a tube or two in my MKIV.

Wow!

 

[lupoal]

after a bad experience with two chinese adapters with serious quality problems (and engineering problems that are defective already in design), that gave me a strong "hummmm" with the C3G, I decided to make myself a pair.
I disassembled this crap...

and then using cyanacrylate adhesive, to hold the pins in place in the pin-saver that sometimes comes with valves, and successivalent two-component epoxy resin, to lock everything in place and ensure electrical isolation, I assembled my adapters starting from a commercial bulb holder (cost 1 euro each).
The two conductors that carry the 6.3Vac are twisted and shielded, the shield is connected to the center pin of the valve, so the aluminum valve housing acts as an effective shield at his best, the shielding braid then crosses the mechanics and is connected to an external copper shielding, this is also connected a connector to connect shielding-circuit then this to earth through an independent cable (so not the ground conductor of the power cable and not even the shield of the power cable).

the piece of screw you can see in the middle is there to increase the coupling/holding force of cyanacrylate between plastic parts

The result of the work could be aesthetically better but from an electrical point of view is perfect .... no HUMMM even with maximum volume and in the absence of musical content. Very silent!

last but not least... thank you MIKELAP for precious help!

 

[carloc]

Congrats Lupoal!

Well done!