Little Dot MK8SE / MK6 Super Mods (All verified mods are on first page)
Apr 25, 2018 at 11:58 AM Post #3,256 of 4,154
Use four double throw switches.
Each switch to switch bias setting for each tube.

Then you will have ultimate freedom of mixing tubes in amp.
Just make sure your in correct switched position...

Double check switch with Sonic as we went over looking for high current switches in past.

Gotcha, yeah thats the plan.

I have 125V 6A / 250V 2A switches. Should be plenty.

@klnglim If you can the board outside (in better lighting and take a few pictures of the board, i can try and tell you which pads will need fixing with a wire.
 
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Apr 25, 2018 at 12:07 PM Post #3,257 of 4,154
Gotcha, yeah thats the plan.

I have 125V 6A / 250V 2A switches. Should be plenty.
What is the configuration?
Is it a double pole , double throw?
You need at least double pole for the two triodes per tube.

I like that idea better than original , for geater freedom of tube selection.

That means all power tube types can be mixed in the mk6..

Sometimes I feel like buying an mk6 to compare to my mk8..
But I am currently lack of time and planning a major amp project next.
 
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Apr 25, 2018 at 12:12 PM Post #3,258 of 4,154
What is the configuration?
Is it a double pole , double throw?
You need at least double pole for the two triodes per tube.

I like that idea better than original , for geater freedom of tube selection.

That means all power tube types can be mixed in the mk6..

Sometimes I feel like buying an mk6 to compare to my mk8..
But I am currently lack of time and planning a major amp project next.

I have ONON SPDT's / ON ON DPDT's. Along with a bunch of 3PDT'S and 4PDT's.

Arent we just trying to add resistors in parallel ? So a Single pole should just work fine?

The pictures on the first page arent exactly clear. From what i can see, we are just switching and dropping the resistance for the cathode by half.
 
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Apr 25, 2018 at 12:19 PM Post #3,259 of 4,154
I have a ONON SPDT's . ON ON DPDT's.

Arent we just trying to add resistors in parallel ? So a Single pole should just work fine?

The pictures on the first page exactly clear. From what i can see, we are just switching dropping the resistance for the cathode by half.
Yes, correct. Only the bottom triode has a cathode resistor. The plate of the bottom triode then connects straight to the top triodes cathode. So one resistor per tube.
 
Apr 25, 2018 at 12:22 PM Post #3,260 of 4,154
Yes, I can clearly see your problem now with your close ups!
:triportsad:

Looks like your PC has been in the wars LOL.

Don't worry I don't know anyone here who hasn't lifted a pad or two. I was in your situation but I decided to get an engineer to check my mods before switching it on because I wasn't confident. Lucky for me he fixed all dodgy areas before sending it back.

Got to hand it to you for sticking at it. Good luck, those eyelets should help you to do a professional job which I'm sure you will. Keep us informed of progress.
:)
Never give up till the miracle happen. LOL

Thomas Edison Quotes : I have not failed. I’ve just found 10,000 ways that won’t work.
 
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Apr 25, 2018 at 12:25 PM Post #3,261 of 4,154
Use four double throw switches.
Each switch to switch bias setting for each tube.

Then you will have ultimate freedom of mixing tubes in amp.

Just make sure your in correct switched position...

Double check switch with Sonic as we went over looking for high current switches in past.

I believe the switches should also be double throw, if you are only changing the cathode resisitor (bias mod).
I forget as I have an MK8 and did not need this bias mod.

I only adjusted bias for one tube type.




Wow that's a big project now.
Will be a big sense of accomplishment once done.
A lot lessons learnt during process, good for self improvement. LOL

Thomas Edison Quotes : I have not failed. I’ve just found 10,000 ways that won’t work.
 
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Apr 25, 2018 at 12:48 PM Post #3,262 of 4,154
After checked cabling, ground connection, at last the amp turn on peacefully however still read "0" on the vu meter, no idea what's wrong, the DC voltage reading :
(106) (3.5) (3.5) (106) (106) (3.5) (3.5) (106)
(106) (3.5) (3.5) (106) (106) (3.5) (3.5) (106)
(215) (215) (215) (215)
Your supposed to have B+ & B- voltages.
This tell me one of the transistors are bad.


Sorry for the late reply, the damage board area fixed already but the amp still reading "0" on VU meter , totally silence to headphone, still can't find out what's the problem yet
0 on the bias meters is a result of the protection circuit kicking in,
Due to the Problem with PSU giving the output circuit error .

After transistor problem solve, the amp turn on no more crack sound, no more circuit burn, however both VU Meter now light up togather at the same time, I suspect either zener diodes, diodes, bridge retifier, N channel J-Fet and Mosfet having some issue, may be going to change those parts later.
The issue is that the diodes are performing as zener diodes to stable the power going thru the power transistors.
The problem lie that they can burn (with their series resisitor next to them), when there is "no tubes" in the sockets .
This will cause chain reaction to blow your transistors.
Replacement of both the pnp&npn power transistors simultaneously is recomended,
As well as the crappy tiny diodes for greater amperage versions (100v and higher amperage for durability).
Change all four at same time, and you won't have one component blowing out the other..
Swap out the garbage tiny series resistor that is with the (zener) diodes as well to greater wattage.

I always use Mills MR5 wirewound for these applications where the current can get high.
They can give ofd smoke for a few seconds an still perform like new.
This is from my own experience on same PSU.

The Diodes u mention about show 0.245 V under diodes read in DMM, this one seem like unnormal?
I also just found one of the bridge rectifier has an issue so as j fet n channel
Just change out those tiny baby diodes for some heavy duty and not have to worry .

There is something I dont understand, when i took off those diodes from PCB, the DMM reading normal and no error, then I put it back, the DMM show 0.245V, that makes me confuse?
Do you know why ?
The diodes supposed to perform a zener voltage regulation to the base of the power transistors which handle the PSU current.

Without the diodes you will not have regulation and I am not sure but I believe the transistors are configured to fully conduct .
When there is less load on PSU, the diodes will conduct more to absorb the voltage headroom of the PSU , which in return biases the power transistor to put out lower voltage and less demand.
Yet the diode will get super hot and burn their accompanying series resisitors.
This is hottest area of amp.
The heat also travels thru the traces to the last two caps that are suggest upgraded.

So I would replace the zener diodes with larger and with longer leads to help dissipate heat further away from board.

If not done already, I would extend the bottom of the amp for more component space.

Good luck!
 
Apr 25, 2018 at 1:08 PM Post #3,263 of 4,154
Something interesting I came across today while talking to a friend who works as engineer in the USAF,

All of Tlthe MILLS resistors are made my VISAHY / DALE. MRA5 / MRA12 are exactly the same as the 5W/12W Dale's (black / brown doesn't matter) .
Vishay / Dale produces a RS (basic variant) and a NS (NON inductive) variant. These are then colored / labelled for different markets. The specs on both of these are much better than the MILLS branded ones. And all of them are made in Mexico.


End of the day they are all the same, just make sure you get the correct non inductive variant.

Hope this saves a few people some money.
 
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Apr 25, 2018 at 1:32 PM Post #3,264 of 4,154
And all of them are made in Mexico.


End of the day they are all the same. Hope this saves a few people some money.
Agreed, my MR5 come from Mexico, and are all matched.

The main thing to make sure of, is that they state they are "non-inductive" types...

The older ones that dont state this, are usually slightly inductive..

There was a sonic difference noticed,
Which was in the upper FR spectrum having a "shiny, glossy, wet,metalic" type ring,
or ambiance to the circuit.

I believe this due to some type of high freq oscillations going on,
because of the added inductance to the circuit.

The actual possible issues can be googled, so I am only noting sonic observations made from this ouput circuit only,
so only applies to this amp.

Results can vary wildly to no issues, or anything depending the the amp and circuit.

Also, on another topic,

The stock bridge rectifiers look like tiny little round things,
but are super durable..

I replaced mine with some fancy Shockey rectifier thats supposedly better, but with the amount of capacitance in the main PSU, I heard no benifits.

Still they probably good for component logevity.

Also if I werr to do it again,
I only would only change the driver stage PSU rectifier, as it has less capacitance and no regulation, but since it is an rcrc circuit I really doubt upgrading the rectifier does any benifits here.
 
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Apr 25, 2018 at 1:45 PM Post #3,265 of 4,154
Agreed, my MR5 come from Mexico, and are all matched.

The main thing to make sure of, is that they state they are "non-inductive" types...

The older ones that dont state this, are usually slightly inductive..

There was a sonic difference noticed,
Which was in the upper FR spectrum having a "shiny, glossy, wet,metalic" type ring,
or ambiance to the circuit.

I believe this due to some type of high freq oscillations going on,
because of the added inductance to the circuit.

The actual possible issues can be googled, so I am only noting sonic observations made from this ouput circuit only,
so only applies to this amp.

Results can vary wildly to no issues, or anything depending the the amp and circuit.

Also, on another topic,

The stock bridge rectifiers look like tiny little round things,
but are super durable..

I replaced mine with some fancy Shockey rectifier thats supposedly better, but with the amount of capacitance in the main PSU, I heard no benifits.

Still they probably good for component logevity.

Also if I werr to do it again,
I only would only change the driver stage PSU rectifier, as it has less capacitance and no regulation, but since it is an rcrc circuit I really doubt upgrading the rectifier does any benifits here.
I notice so far, Other than those bridge rectifier, volume controler, tube sockets, op-amp chips and fuse, the rest of the components are garbage include the PCB itself
 
Apr 25, 2018 at 1:53 PM Post #3,266 of 4,154
I notice so far, Other than those bridge rectifier, volume controler, tube sockets, op-amp chips and fuse, the rest of the components are garbage include the PCB itself
The blue PCBs seem to be of much poorer quality than the newer black PCBs.

Even after a lot of care while pulling the larger caps and a few of the smaller resistors , I pulled 3 pads. On the amp with the black PCB , 0 pads got pulled no matter hoq many times I soldered / applied heat to the same pads. And I did that a bunch of times on my friends amp.

Probably one of the reasons why they switched to the black boards. And partly to hide the traces.
 
Apr 25, 2018 at 2:04 PM Post #3,267 of 4,154
The blue PCBs seem to be of much poorer quality than the newer black PCBs.

Even after a lot of care while pulling the larger caps and a few of the smaller resistors , I pulled 3 pads. On the amp with the black PCB , 0 pads got pulled no matter hoq many times I soldered / applied heat to the same pads. And I did that a bunch of times on my friends amp.

Probably one of the reasons why they switched to the black boards. And partly to hide the traces.
The board is quite strong but the printed silver eyelets & traces are very easy to come off, need to be careful when desolder.
That's why I ordered eyelets cooper replacement and slim cooper lining sticker to fix those damage area
 
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Apr 25, 2018 at 2:06 PM Post #3,268 of 4,154
Other than those bridge rectifier
Capture+_2018-04-25-13-58-25.png

Too bad all this hype sold me and I did not hear any benifits,
Which may have actually occurred in the driver stage PSU,
But I cannot verify, so cannot recomend unless you really want to try.
 
Apr 25, 2018 at 2:09 PM Post #3,270 of 4,154
The board is quite strong but the printed silver eyelets & traces are very easy to come off, need to be careful when desolder.
That's why I ordered eyelets cooper replacement and slim cooper lining sticker to fix those damage area
I forgot who it was that had their trace broken in the main PSU, right underneath the PSU caps around the diode area..
One side supposed to connect to the other thru a hole wherr two caps join(!).
You should check that area as well..
 

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