[coinmaster]

I'm using industrial MKP caps for my cathode bypass, now that I have ripped everything out of it's case.
I'm wondering, do I even need the .1uf bypass caps if I'm using mkp? 

 

[Maxx134]

I believe so, as I asked same question to Redge78.

Their very small capacitance and proximity is an advantage.

 

[Mogos]

I hope you are preapred for many somtimes so obvious questions.What about the connection points for the driver tubes decoupling caps.
Is the one

replaced with Wima one

or tere is another situation hidden behind ? 

And wat is the rule to connect the cap with 4 legs in to two connection points.
 
I am planning to use as a decoupling caps 
MKP 50 µF Wima
DC-LINK 900 V/DC 20 % 
But they have four legs.
The Mundorf Lytics AG+ also.

 

[Maxx134]

Those are very nice caps...
The legs on the same side can be combined..
For instance look at the pic first page of my mundorf..
legs on same side are pointed to each other..

 

[Maxx134]

I will take a closer pic once I am home in about 8hours

 

[coinmaster]

You are replacing the capacitor at the top yes, from this trace on the right (the two prong one for the capacitor) to the one at the top (one of the resistors we replaced).
 
You can either just replace the capacitor from the soldering points or solder to the capacitor ground (the soldering point on the left that has no trace) and the resistor up top which would leave a shorter signal path.
 
One thing I will say is don't start buying anything until you have a complete understanding of what you are buying and why. You should see how many questions I have asked Maxx and Redge!, gazillions of pages worth, we just opened our third private thread because the other 2 took too long to load and scroll down from being so gigantically big.
 
Props to Maxx and Redge for putting up with me 

 

 

[Maxx134]

Took Ur pic 2 draw:

 

[Mogos]

Thank you this is it. From your photo and what have Coinmaster written it looks like the capacitor on the top is taken away. But from the connection photo (and what it was said about adding a new decoupling elements) I conclude that the top capacitor shall be there where it was. I have a question can I use the same type of capacitor MKP 50 µF Wima DC-LINK 900 V/DC 20 % for the drive stage? Can you also pint out the position of the resistors you have written before: Yet the mk6 still needs upgrade of grid resistors in driver tube stage, by volume control,
IF they are the blue resistors..
If they are the brown type, you are good.
 
Slowly we will understand what you are guys talking with ech other about .

 

[Redge78]

  Thank you this is it. From your photo and what have Coinmaster written it looks like the capacitor on the top is taken away. But from the connection photo (and what it was said about adding a new decoupling elements) I conclude that the top capacitor shall be there where it was. I have a question can I use the same type of capacitor MKP 50 µF Wima DC-LINK 900 V/DC 20 % for the drive stage? Can you also pint out the position of the resistors you have written before: Yet the mk6 still needs upgrade of grid resistors in driver tube stage, by volume control,
IF they are the blue resistors..
If they are the brown type, you are good.
 
Slowly we will understand what you are guys talking with ech other about .

Hi Mogos,
 
"capacitor MKP 50 µF Wima DC-LINK 900 V/DC" :
- Which one ? There are 5 or 6 different types of "WIMA DC-link". Better to put a link to a datasheet or a site, that limits misunderstandings.
- 50µF is probably too much. Decoupling capacity is linked to the modulated current/power you have in the stage you feed. And there is not much power in the Driver stage. Maxx's 25µF should be just fine, and they fit. But 50µF (or more) won't hurt. The "min 50µF" was more for the Power Stage decoupling.
- About the "4 leads" ... it's always good to read the datasheet of the component you study/buy, you have plenty of useful informations in them, and among them "how to deal with the leads ...". And my "WIMA DC-LINK MKP5" have 5 leads, so don't complain !
 
 
 
About soldering points :
You can take the board out : the easiest is to remove the small round cap and put/solder the decoupling one there
You can't take the board out : it's more tricky, you'll have to solder at the Driver's Anode/Cathode ends (you leave the round caps alone). This is what I did, I'll put some pics in the 1st page post.
 
Anode : From Maxx's pic, it's the (+) at the top, from the other side of the board, it's the leads of the 215K/220K 2W resistors (the side the 2 leads have "0" Ohm resistance). Easy to find, easy to solder. The "decoupling" wire is the yellow twisted one, obviously !
 

 
 
Cathode : the tricky part ! From the group of 3 resistors you have both ways near the pot, the CathoDe are the caps nearer the pot (the 2 other ones are Grid resistors for each triode of one tube).
In the pic below, they are the soldering points (on the left) just above the "Dot" writing and (on the right) just above the " sword_yang" 
 

 

[Mogos]

Data sheet for Wimas. Suitable or not this is the question.

 

 

[Mogos]

I have found another one with better tolerance MKP 60 µF Wima DCP4L056007KD4KYSD 800 V 10 %
But costs two times more.

 

[SonicTrance]

If anyone is looking for cathode caps, hificollective sells 220uF 63V Mundorf ECap AC RAW electrolytic capacitor for £1,79 a piece!
 
http://www.hificollective.co.uk/catalog/ecap63030-220uf-63vdc-mundorf-ecap-electrolytic-p-4010.html

 

[coinmaster]

This is what I'm using for the driver tube decoupling. http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=DCP4I061508CD4KSSDvirtualkey50520000virtualkey505-DCP4-150%2f600%2f10
I was surprised how big a difference simply upgrading the power caps and these made. It was huge.
 
You haven't stated whether you are planning on keeping everything inside the case or what your budget is.
Personally, for me this amp is a long term investment, I'd be hesitant if there was a potential to buy a better amp but nothing I've heard at any price comes close. So I'm putting as much as I can into the amp.

 

[Maxx134]

If anyone is looking for cathode caps, hificollective sells 220uF 63V Mundorf ECap AC RAW electrolytic capacitor for £1,79 a piece!

http://www.hificollective.co.uk/catalog/ecap63030-220uf-63vdc-mundorf-ecap-electrolytic-p-4010.html

This is MY recomended cap.
Check the datasheet to see what they say about its signal passing quality.
It has the advantage of laying flat like original.
In my amp, I stacked them one on top of another, for even more space.

I cannot recommend these highly enough and it seems mundorf os making some lower voltage types that look same.
So dont get confused..

Also , at that price they are a steal.
So IF you choose an electrolytic for the Cathode bypass(which is more practtical)
Use this one!

Also, Using the bypass .1uf Rifas with them (to me) negates the reasoning to go full "mkp" type on the Cathode caps,
Unless your coinmaster
Hey Coin, I wanna hear your beauty in future once all setup.

 

[Redge78]

Hey Coin, I wanna hear your beauty in future once all setup.

He'll have to rent a truck to carry his stuff ...