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Little Dot MK8SE / MK6 Super Mods (All verified mods are on first page)

Discussion in 'Headphone Amps (full-size)' started by redge78, Sep 26, 2015.
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  1. MrCurwen
    The schematic I posted is missing the 100 ohm gate stopper for the FET in the CCS. It can clearly be seen in Sonic's photos. Be sure to put that in, it is required. It also helps construction a lot.

    100R between CCS and cathode node is not needed. A resistor is a good binding post, but maybe get a 1R resistor for that. Or 10 or something.

    In some circuits you need a cathode stopper between cathode and CCS to prevent oscillations.
  2. baronbeehive
    Welcome to the club!

    Very nice job, I am in awe of your desoldering/soldering skills!

    The bass on the MKVI actually has more thump than on my speaker APPJ, and that is no slouch!It does take a while to get used to the new sound and for me the refinement is one thing that makes it so much better, you notice much more happening than before when you really start to listen, it really draws you in.

    I'm sure you're aware of this but just watch those 3 points highlighted because parts can move around when opening and shutting the chassis and I have the same problem with the third circle at the bottom, the wire is very near to the screw and you might not have noticed that!

    So what about the WCF caps?

  3. baronbeehive
    Thanks Sonic, they look very good pics. I will study them some more.
  4. klnglim
    After few weeks waiting for those components, just finshed all mod except decoupling caps, this is a low budget Russian Caps and bypass, Mundolf MKP Caps, 150R Mills resistors mod, the amp run very stable, sound stage wide, nice and natural comfort, after few hours run, tide bass improvement noticeable, hopefully more improvement in next 200 hours of burn in, may be will do decoupling in future soon, any suggestion for further improvement please give advise, thanks IMG_9113.JPG IMG_9114.JPG IMG_9115.JPG IMG_9116.JPG IMG_9117.JPG IMG_9118.JPG IMG_9119.JPG IMG_9120.JPG IMG_9121.JPG IMG_9122.JPG IMG_9123.JPG
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2018
  5. gug42
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2018
  6. baronbeehive
    Hey, great day for mods from members!

    That is looking fantastic, good work!

    Re further mods you might be limited due to the size of the Russian caps unless you want to extend the chassis.

    Here's my suggestions roughly in order of sonic benefits, any or all of these:
    1 - WCF cap, might be a problem with space
    2 - Driver tube bias mod
    3 - CCS mod, think about his before doing the driver tube bias mod. I'm not sure but this might mean you don't need to bother with the decoupling for driver stage Also means that it's not so important to upgrade the PSU caps I think. I'm not sure yet as I haven't done it but could be one of the most important mods Also the fact you have Kasei cathode caps means that you gain on sonic benefits so PSU mods not so important.
    4 - Power tube bias only if you are plannig on using 5998's/4221A's
    5 - Wiring
    6 - At least these resistors which are looking worse for wear and are important:

    Last edited: Feb 25, 2018
  7. baronbeehive
  8. gug42
    Great ! Jobs done, and really working well :) Impressive dynamique, really powerfull bass and lots of details with evry headpones. Far better than the little dot. Perhaps a little bit too expressive in the trebble area. In comparaison the little dot sounds life less ....

    My amp, well, take the headphone in their hand with strengh, power and authority. And I have'nt use high end materials : Toroidy for iron (transformers and choke), chemical capacitor bypassed with basic mkp (some blue boxes epcos), total 14 Kg :D
    I have used simple but high end design : two powerlines, one by channel, an really carefull electrical ground implantation.
    Tubes are Sylvania 6SN7WGT and JJ KT88

    I'm waiting for an oscillo to mesure it.

    In the future I will :
    - Rebuild it to have a more compart form factor ! Perhaps with using a 6SL7 SRPP gomez
    - Build one with theoretical better stuff : lundhal output transformers, hammond choke, full mkp and PIO capacitor (huge beasts), SRPP gomez for input, and DHT tubes for output (2A3 ? 45 ? 300B ? others ?)
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2018
  9. klnglim
    I agree with you is changing most of the resistor, just want to know can those resistors (from the pictures with yellow circle) change to wirewound 150R 5W instead of
    original show is 120R 5W ?
    I understand space inside this amp.is limited, just try my best to find tiny, low cost and better quality if possible as I like the original design case and look weird when extend it.
    Another question is about cathode bypass caps, I still some caps (same brand same type) left over, can I add extra as parralel caps coupling?Will that cause sound badly?
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2018
  10. klnglim
  11. bloodhawk
    Thank you for the compliments :D

    All the info in this thread by you, Max, Sonic, Redge has been invaluable!

    Ah those wires won't move. The one on the top is much lower than it looks in the picture, from the terminal of the other cap.

    And other ones are super stiff Cooper , they won't move even if I drop the amp lol. Plus the copper strands have this really strong and sturdy coating on them.

    I might swap out the WCF caps in the future with some MKP's.

    For some reason i kinda felt the thump was much more with only the Audyn's in. But it could also because the lower frequencies weren't rolling off as much, and now because of the extension they are rolling off much further down. End of the day not a deal breaker. Some of it has already come back, i have a feeling things will get even better over time as the caps settle in.
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2018
  12. baronbeehive
    If you mean the WCF grid resistors I think you should stick to your board values, and not necessary for wirewound there, but you could since they are 5W. I'm not sure I can't remember what mine are there.

    Ha ha, yes it does look a bit weird!!!

    No, that will degrade sound. You need the smaller capacitance value here because it is putting back the high frequencies that are lost due to the larger type upgrade caps. The smaller value caps as bypass are necessary, I found that with my other amp, without these type caps the sound becomes lifeless and others here have experimented and found just the right size and value caps which you should use.

    Great, I would have got nowhere without the help here.....apart from up the creek

    That's an interesting point which I brought up recently with my comparisons with my other amp and found that the MKVI was less articulate in the bass regions. It's something we have tried to address here as a known aspect of the LD's bass being somewhat lacking in transient attack which I believe would elevate the LD to top level status.
    I am holding out for the results of the CCS mod before I decide on this because it could do the trick. I believe it had similar results in your BH Crack speedball mod from what I've heard.
  13. baronbeehive
    Very interesting! What design did you use, was it DIY
  14. gug42
    Yep a DIY, a really standard SE with the spirit of "less is more", juste the usefull stuff :
    - only R and C
    - Two power line, one by channel
    - Classical filter CLCRC
    - One ground line by channel

    Well if you wan i can send you the schematic :)
  15. baronbeehive
    I think we would all be interested, thanks!
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