Little Dot I+ Tube Rolling
Jul 22, 2014 at 2:15 PM Post #1,951 of 3,154
  I'm using cv138 setting for the first time, the right channell is much more loud than the left, even if I invert the valves.
Any suggestion? It could be balanced?
 

 
It could be that one of the jumpers is defective.
 
There is a way to check this. The EF91/92 jumper for each socket simply connects pin 7 to pin 5. That is, it connects Grid 3 (pin7) to the Plate (pin 5).
 
To test this, you can easily make this connection in the socket. Put your LD back into EF95 mode. (I am assuming that EF95 has been working fine). Looking down on your sockets, the pinholes are counted counter-clockwise, starting with the pinhole to the right of the gap. Therefore, pinhole 7 is the last pinhole to the left of the gap. Cut two small pieces of 26 (or smaller) gauge stranded wire just long enough to allow one end to be inserted into pinhole 7 and the other into pinhole 5. Strip the ends of the insulation off both ends and then carefully insert these wires into the pinholes in both sockets. Next, carefully insert the tubes. Having done this, you have tied pin 7 to pin 5 in the socket which is exactly what the EF91/92 jumper was designed to do.
 
If you feel comfortable doing this, I suggest you give it a try and see what happens.
 
Good luck
 
Jul 24, 2014 at 7:27 AM Post #1,952 of 3,154
Thanks a lot, I going to try.
 
Meanwhile I investigate and found that last owner used cv131 with the 6JI settings! (thats why was not happy thought)
could have damaged the amp?
 
Jul 26, 2014 at 11:14 AM Post #1,954 of 3,154
   
It could be that one of the jumpers is defective.
 
There is a way to check this. The EF91/92 jumper for each socket simply connects pin 7 to pin 5. That is, it connects Grid 3 (pin7) to the Plate (pin 5).
 
To test this, you can easily make this connection in the socket. Put your LD back into EF95 mode. (I am assuming that EF95 has been working fine). Looking down on your sockets, the pinholes are counted counter-clockwise, starting with the pinhole to the right of the gap. Therefore, pinhole 7 is the last pinhole to the left of the gap. Cut two small pieces of 26 (or smaller) gauge stranded wire just long enough to allow one end to be inserted into pinhole 7 and the other into pinhole 5. Strip the ends of the insulation off both ends and then carefully insert these wires into the pinholes in both sockets. Next, carefully insert the tubes. Having done this, you have tied pin 7 to pin 5 in the socket which is exactly what the EF91/92 jumper was designed to do.
 
If you feel comfortable doing this, I suggest you give it a try and see what happens.
 
Good luck

You're right, it works! And is very good with these Telefunken, without connection there is noise too.
Do you think it could be fixed?
 
Jul 26, 2014 at 1:08 PM Post #1,955 of 3,154
  You're right, it works! And is very good with these Telefunken, without connection there is noise too.
Do you think it could be fixed?

 
I was pretty sure this would work. :)
 
And I would think that it could be fixed. First, I suggest that you try another set of computer jumpers. Perhaps your jumpers are corroded and/or defective. And while you are at it, check and clean the jumper pins on the circuit board, perhaps they are corroded. If this doesn't solve the problem, then I suspect it will be necessary to resolder connections on the circuit board. (At this point, I should say that I have no experience soldering connections on circuit boards, so the best I can do is suggest how one might do this...)
 
Using an ohmmeter, check to make sure there is a good connection between the jumper pins on the circuit board and pinholes 5 and 7. (Remember that you will be looking at the underside of the socket, a mirror image if you will, so the pinholes are numbered clockwise, not counter-clockwise.) If the connection is poor, it may be necessary to resolder the connections. If you are not comfortable doing this, perhaps you have a friend who can help you.
 
If not, there is no reason why you cannot continue to tie these pins together in the socket with the wire jumpers you made. Just make sure you use 26 gauge or smaller stranded wire. For example, do not use solid-core 30 gauge wrapping wire. Solid-core wire, even 30 gauge, is simply too fat. And a wire too fat can stretch-out your sockets. I have used these wire jumpers extensively to run tubes that would otherwise be incompatible with the LD, such as 6AU6, with no problems.
 
Edit: And very frankly, it is a pain to open the amp up to switch between EF91/92 and EF95. so I often used these wire jumpers instead. :)
 
Cheers
 
Jul 26, 2014 at 5:48 PM Post #1,956 of 3,154
Changing tubes is so funny, you have a complete different amp in 20 second and 10 quids, I found the right  punch and back listen Metallica's One after ages.
 
I'm thinking how install an external tube selector, no one tried?
 
Jul 26, 2014 at 6:15 PM Post #1,957 of 3,154
An external tube selector? Something like a "jukebox" of tubes? lol I'm sure it is possible...  But as you say, it takes only 20 seconds to roll a pair of tubes, so maybe it's more trouble than it is worth?
 
Jul 26, 2014 at 6:48 PM Post #1,958 of 3,154
No, I mean only a switch to pass from ef91 to ef95 without open it.
 
Jul 30, 2014 at 5:51 AM Post #1,960 of 3,154
Im using this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=201136542890 now, much better than the original.
 
Jul 30, 2014 at 7:38 AM Post #1,961 of 3,154
I've not tried that one.I am currently running a MUSES 02 op amp, however, it is quite a bit more expensive than the OPA604AP. 
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400418607953?
 
I have tried the stock MC33078, an OPA2107, an LME 49990 and the MUSES 01, and I like the MUSES 02 the best.
 
Jul 30, 2014 at 5:18 PM Post #1,962 of 3,154
Yes, perhaps too cheap to be genuine, but it works, the LT1364cn I took together instead doesn't work, only noise. I'll check for a Muse 02.
 
Aug 5, 2014 at 6:07 PM Post #1,964 of 3,154
  Does anybody have any tube/opamp recommendations for AKG K240 studios (55 ohms, 104 dB SPL/V)? I'm getting my first tube amp and I'm trying to see if the Little Dot I+ would be my best option...

 
The "best option"? Hard to say... lol...  However, for the money the LD1+ is hard to beat for low Z phones. Get yourself a MUSES 02 op amp and a pair of tall-bottle EI 6HM5 / EC900 (EF95) and enjoy. :)
 
Aug 5, 2014 at 9:25 PM Post #1,965 of 3,154
   
The "best option"? Hard to say... lol...  However, for the money the LD1+ is hard to beat for low Z phones. Get yourself a MUSES 02 op amp and a pair of tall-bottle EI 6HM5 / EC900 (EF95) and enjoy. :)

Yeah, I guess that is very subjective lol... I'm just looking for something that pairs well with the headphones, drives them properly, is a good tube amp for beginners, aaand fits in my budget of $150 lol. Basically I'm debating on either LD1+ (now with your recommended opamp and tubs) or the Schiit Vali. Both paired with an ODAC or Stoner Acoustic's UD110v2. Anyways, I'm getting off topic here lol. I saw the link for the MUSES 02 op amp above but where do you recommend  buying the  EI 6HM5's from?
 

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