Little Dot I+ Tube Rolling
Mar 26, 2015 at 3:42 AM Post #2,221 of 3,154
Is important the opa you use too. Eg. the Yugo with the lm4562 are detailed, with the 2111 are very different.
 
Mar 26, 2015 at 10:32 AM Post #2,222 of 3,154
I'm using the 4562, they're detailed but the treble definitely lost a lot of air and some sparkle vs the 408a.

Does the vosh regain some air and soundstage????
 
Mar 26, 2015 at 11:34 AM Post #2,223 of 3,154
I haven't heard the 408a so I can't compare it to the Ei 6HM5.
 
The Voskhods sound more detailed and have more sparkle than the Ei tubes, while the Ei tubes have a more laid back, thicker sound than the Voskhods.
 
Mar 26, 2015 at 11:50 AM Post #2,224 of 3,154
Right on, thanks! Maybe I'll pick up a set and have the best of both worlds without having to open up the bottom.
 
Mar 26, 2015 at 2:34 PM Post #2,225 of 3,154
At about $12-15 a pair, why not give it a shot.  Added bonus of the Ei tubes is that they're taller and put out more of that nice, amber glow.
 
Mar 26, 2015 at 11:56 PM Post #2,227 of 3,154
Hi, I have i+ with upgraded EF92 tubes (came with the amp) and I also recently put in OPA2107AP. Now I know its not the best opamp out there but I had already placed an order for them before coming across this thread. Anyways, I will upgrade them sometime in the future. I have it currently paired with Topping D20 and the sound is actually quite harsh. I am beginning to think that it doesn't pair well with that particular DAC (its a bit bright and in your face and narrow). I also sometimes hear a bit of noise when using my philips SHP9500 which happen to be quite detailed. So I am wondering if its this opamp or my surroundings. 
 
Another question I have for you folks is whether this amp will be able to drive HD650 or would I need to get something else. Thanks!
 
Mar 27, 2015 at 10:06 AM Post #2,229 of 3,154
OK, please forgive me if this has been covered before--I searched this thread a number of times using the search function and different combinations of words, and I've read many dozens of pages of this thread (but not all 149 of them)--and the best advice I have seen so far on how to remove the op amp is to just grab it with your fingers or carefully with pliers.  I normally use IC pullers for this task, but there are components on either end of the op amp that leave little to no room to slip IC puller tips in and underneath the op amp!  I am reluctant to use pliers on the pin sides of the op amp.
 
Some detailed advice on swapping out the op amp would be much appreciated!
 
On another note, got my LD I+ yesterday and installed the GE JAN5654W tubes right away--didn't bother with the stock 6J1's at all.  I also took off the bottom of the case and checked to make sure the jumpers were all configured correctly--which they were since I ordered the base LD I+.  Those screws really are made of crap metal, aren't they?
 
Anyway, even without any burn in, I think I'm liking the synergy with my Grado RS2e's.  I only listened for about 30 minutes, though, and at a very modest volume, so time will tell.
 
A couple other questions:
 
1. Do people really not plug and unplug headphones while the unit is on?  That seems like a real pain!  I'm pretty much just ignoring that.  I just make sure that the volume is all the way down when I plug and unplug.  Has anyone ever actually run into any issues by doing this?
 
2. How important is it to have exactly matched tubes?  I've also been ignoring that.  I think $36 + $4 for shipping for two Voshkods from Yen Audio is *cough* a little steep.  I bought 5 NOS GE JAN5654W's with all the same date codes for like $10 shipped.  I also got two 6ZH1P-EV Voshkods from overseas for like $13 shipped.  Both sellers guaranteed the tubes to be good and will refund if I'm not satisfied.  And I just grabbed two GE's at random and installed them and I listened carefully for channel mismatch, and nada.  No problem.  If--as I've read--the tubes really are driving the op amp, then gain differences won't be a big deal, I wouldn't think.  I wouldn't think you'd need precisely matched tubes.  But I'm wondering what people's experience has been?
 
Thanks in advance for any help!
 
Mar 27, 2015 at 12:43 PM Post #2,230 of 3,154
I used a paper clip with the tip bent to get some delicate leverage under the old opamp and gently wiggle it out of the socket.  The pins on my MUSES02 were very flexible and I was afraid I would crush them under the pressure of trying to push it into its new home.  After carefully lining up the pins to the corresponding socket and applying steady, even pressure, the new chip went in without drama.  I took my time and was glad I did.
 
I turn the volume down to zero when swapping out my headphones, but never bother to turn it off and on between swaps.  No issues over the dozens of times I swapped between my headphones.
 
It is my understanding that the tubes do not need to be carefully matched, however! I did have channel imbalance on the Ei 6HM5 tubes so imbalance issues can and does happen.
 
I picked up an '87 pair and '73 pair of Voskhods for under $15 per pair.  I would order the Voskhods as my favorite followed by the GE pair, and then the 6HM5's.  They're all great, but if I had to pick an order, that would be it.  Voskhods have the most detail to me while the GE JAN's have the most neutral balance and 6HM5's have a mellow, richer sound.  The Ei tubes are also much taller and give out more of that beautiful glow.
 
Mar 27, 2015 at 2:14 PM Post #2,231 of 3,154
  I used a paper clip with the tip bent to get some delicate leverage under the old opamp and gently wiggle it out of the socket.  The pins on my MUSES02 were very flexible and I was afraid I would crush them under the pressure of trying to push it into its new home.  After carefully lining up the pins to the corresponding socket and applying steady, even pressure, the new chip went in without drama.  I took my time and was glad I did.
 
I turn the volume down to zero when swapping out my headphones, but never bother to turn it off and on between swaps.  No issues over the dozens of times I swapped between my headphones.
 
It is my understanding that the tubes do not need to be carefully matched, however! I did have channel imbalance on the Ei 6HM5 tubes so imbalance issues can and does happen.
 
I picked up an '87 pair and '73 pair of Voskhods for under $15 per pair.  I would order the Voskhods as my favorite followed by the GE pair, and then the 6HM5's.  They're all great, but if I had to pick an order, that would be it.  Voskhods have the most detail to me while the GE JAN's have the most neutral balance and 6HM5's have a mellow, richer sound.  The Ei tubes are also much taller and give out more of that beautiful glow.


Thanks adtrance!  This was very helpful.
 
Mar 27, 2015 at 2:16 PM Post #2,232 of 3,154
Oh, also, one more thing.  Is there a definitive answer on the question of the NAME of this thing?  Is it the ONE PLUS or the EYE PLUS?  I see it both ways.  Obviously, capital "I" is the same as Roman Numeral ONE, so that's probably what's going on, but it still seems confusing and strange.  No more so than the naming of all their other amps, though, I've read.
 
Mar 27, 2015 at 4:19 PM Post #2,234 of 3,154
  OK, please forgive me if this has been covered before--I searched this thread a number of times using the search function and different combinations of words, and I've read many dozens of pages of this thread (but not all 149 of them)--and the best advice I have seen so far on how to remove the op amp is to just grab it with your fingers or carefully with pliers.  I normally use IC pullers for this task, but there are components on either end of the op amp that leave little to no room to slip IC puller tips in and underneath the op amp!  I am reluctant to use pliers on the pin sides of the op amp.

 
I use an 8-pin gold solderless IC socket as an extension to make it easier to insert and extract op-amps. Insert the op-amp into the extension and then push the extension into the circuit board socket. And it very nicely elevates the op- amp so that you can easily grab it with your fingers to pull it out.
 
Since a picture is worth a thousand words, this is what I am talking about:
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/20PCS-8-PIN-GOLD-DIP-IC-BASE-CRADLE-SOCKET-PANEL-ADAPTER-SWAPPING-SOLDERLESS-/231081762499?
 
Mar 27, 2015 at 4:31 PM Post #2,235 of 3,154
1. Do people really not plug and unplug headphones while the unit is on?  That seems like a real pain!  I'm pretty much just ignoring that.  I just make sure that the volume is all the way down when I plug and unplug.  Has anyone ever actually run into any issues by doing this?
 

 
Since the 1+ has an SS output stage, it isn't really necessary to plug and unplug the headphones.
 
That said, if you think that you might eventually get an all-tube amp, this is an excellent habit to develop. If tubes are going to arc and short-out, it typically happens the instant power is turned on and/or off. And since the amp's power tubes are connected directly to your headphones, very bad things can and do happen. And further, to save wear and tear on the amp's headphone jack, I have a 2-ft headphone extention cable always plugged into the amp, and then connect and disconnect the headphones from the extension cable. But again, it isn't necessary with the 1+, but still, it is a good idea.
 

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