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Little Dot I+ Tube Rolling

Discussion in 'Headphone Amps (full-size)' started by mapstec, Sep 16, 2008.
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  1. i luvmusic 2
    Yes i would like to put them together in one case to reduce clutter.The external PS is for the Tube(6SN7 and 12SN7) heaters running my LD 1 and MK III.
    I just opened the LD 1 and found out that those wires from the  transformer to PCB are short i think the easy way to do it is Mark and just cut them then resolder with longer wires if needed.it wont be that easy to do this so i have to think it over.
    This picture is actually the cleanest if you see it now wires and some other crap on my desk.
  2. i luvmusic 2
    No worries G i'am just like you but i can tell you this what ever i know in this LD stuff i learn it from you and the other guys.I can't Thank you enough for taking your time giving your thoughts to all us.[​IMG]
  3. MunkyOne
    I see.  That's quite a full desk you have there :)
    Yes, the LD1 transformer wires are very short, but if all you are doing is relocating the transformer, it should be fairly easy to do.  As you say, just mark the wires before you cut them.  If you think that you might make further changes later, it may be an idea to make a detatchable cable for the transformer.   The LD1+ is quite tight inside, but it is easy to take apart and reassemble.
    Have you any ideas about the case you will use?   I still can't decide between wood/metal or just metal.  I am looking at retro hi-fi for inspiration :)
  4. Solrighal

    In what way have you modded your Q's? I've done the bass mod myself & enjoy it (no idea why it isn't done as stock to be honest). Are there other mods? Have you designed something unique?
  5. gibosi
    Some of us have external sockets for double triodes and we are using an auxiliary power supply for the heaters, as these tubes draw more current than we believe the LD can safely provide, or we want to provide heater voltages in excess of 6.3 volts. This also allows us to use DC current to power the heaters, which tends to be quieter than AC current.
    And for sure it would be nice to wrap all this stuff into one nice-looking enclosure....
  6. i luvmusic 2
    Aluminum(scrap) and wood or something like this Recycled Electronic case with scrap aluminum for face plate. DSC_3181.jpg
    Just the Bass port.
  7. i luvmusic 2
    The only thing that is holding me back from transfering the LD 1 into a bigger case is the Volume pot and the headphone jack.I'am thinking of removing them from the PCB but i'am a bit nervous doing that i might screw it up.It sure would be nice to move everything i have in one case it will look cleaner but it's something that i really need to think about before i start screwing something up.making the case IMO is the easy part but unsoldering the Pot/jack i don't know.
  8. kvtaco17
    just an FYI the lyr plus 6SN7 or 6CG7 is a nasty thing... Ive tried a few pairs of both that I know sound good...Sylvania 6SN7(button bottom, black and brown) RCA 6SN7 (shortie blacked out) RCA and Raytheon 6CG7... and they all sounded bloated loose and painfully bright... distorted and odd sounding... This experiment is now officially a failure...
  9. gibosi
    Based on previous postings in the Lyr thread, I am not surprised, but it is too bad.... :frowning2:
  10. kvtaco17
    I am sad too...
  11. MunkyOne
    The volume pot and HP jack socket are straightforward to remove, assuming some experience of soldering.  I use a cheap de-solder tool, which sucks up solder as it is melted by the soldering iron.  Not much can go wrong, as long as you make a careful note of the required new cable connections, required for mounting the pot and jack on the front panel rather than the PCB.
    I plan to do the same, once I have decided on a suitable case.  Currently considering a retro look, perhaps with wood sides, ala 1970's.
  12. i luvmusic 2
    I changed my mind recasing my Amps instead i will make a new adapter for the tubes it will be on a aluminum plate and hide all the wires/cable inside that adapter case so atleast it will look a little tidy and last night i soldered the wires for the adapter in the back of tube sockets.The case for the tube adapter it will be made out of aluminum plate on top, wood on both sides, aluminum on the front  and a small aluminum plate in the back to hold some connectors.
    No more Vector adapters.
  13. i luvmusic 2
    I'm worried about overheating the PCB and melt those contacts/trace.
  14. MunkyOne
    When soldering electronics, I use a 14w soldering iron, which minimises the risk of overheating the components.  On my LD1+ PCB (v3.0), the HP jack and volume pot soldered connections are far enough away from the most heat-sensitive components for a 14w soldering iron to be quite safe.  If I am in any doubt, I use a pair of pliers as a heat sink to protect the nearest component along the track I am soldering on.  I have recently added a few extra components to the underside of my LD1+ PCB, without any problems.  I just observe a rule of minimum contact with the soldering iron.
    I do recommend using a low-wattage soldering iron, rather than a general purpose one, for all electronic circuit soldering.
  15. MunkyOne
    This is a good idea.  Post a pic when your'e done :)
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