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Little Dot I+ Tube Rolling

Discussion in 'Headphone Amps (full-size)' started by mapstec, Sep 16, 2008.
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  1. MunkyOne

    I have just opened mine up again, and as you say, J1 is close to the foot.  However, on mine it is not quite as close as you describe (I measured it with the base inserted upside-down) , so perhaps there are some slight variations between batches?  I have about 2-3mm to spare between J1 and the foot.  If the hinged panel opened from the front - backwards, with a single retaining screw at the front-centre, it may just work.  When I have tome time, I will try it :)
  2. signet02
    Hello, all... Got my LD 1+ today... It came with the standard 6J1 tubes... I opened up the unit carefully to make sure it was jumpered / switched for that tube, and it was, predictably... I do have a pair of WE 408 A tubes on the way... They should even be here later, or tomorrow at the latest...
    I will say a few things so far: I have the unit burning in with a CD playing on 'repeat all'... No problem with heat... That's nominal... There is a bit of hum I'm hoping will go away as the tubes burn in... I'll probably roll the WE 408A's in later today... Also, not particularly good sounding yet... But I have enough experience with tube gear to not expect too much out of the box...
    The instruction manual is a little vague as far as the pictorial is concerned... I'm finding myself looking at the circuit board with a magnifying glass to determine just what's going on in there...
    I think I'm getting the hang of it, though...  It sure would help having a large photo of the circuit board with all the details nice and crisp to look at... Can anyone point me to that on this forum?...
    I do want to congratulate Amazon.com for the best price and no shipping... It took all of three days to get here!...
    That was $116.00, no shipping, and three day delivery via DHL... They even called me on the phone to say that it would be delivered today... Note: No affiliation with Amazon.com, DHL, or Little Dot...  
  3. gibosi
  4. signet02
    Thanks... If my mind doesn't deceive me, I think there's a slightly different layout on mine... It seems to me that I saw a moveable center-tapped jumper that takes the place of the two switches to go to WE 408 A or back... Have to check it again... Oh, no more hum after a few hours break-in... Dead quiet... Thanks again...
  5. Kukuk
    The FS board isn't really bringing me all that much luck: Anyone here have any tubes they might want to sell me? One of my tubes started making a really loud cracking sound, so I figure it's about time they got replaced!
  6. kvtaco17
    I have a few, I'll let you know tomorrow what stock fitting tubes I have plus cost.
  7. kvtaco17
    From left to right
    3 Sylvania 6DT6A (2 have a soldered 1-7 strap)
    2 Ediswan EH90
    2 Voskhod 6ZH1P
    2 Svetlana 6A2P
    2 GE 6DT6
    2 RCA 6DT6A (soldered 1-7 strap)
    2 GE 6AV6 modded and taped
    2 Siemens 6AK5w
    2 Sylvania 6HM5
    3 Valvo EH90 (1 has a slight hum)
    5 RCA 5915's I got from Jay awhile back and never used.
    All that! The ultimate starter kit lol
    This includes the 6HM5, 6AV6 and 6DT6 that were probably the best sounding stock compatible tubes... I'm on to 6DJ8's and soon to be rolling octals so I'm done with these little guys... PM me for price.
  8. signet02
    Warning: In the above photo of inside of unit, J5 and J6 are actually J1 and J2 [according to manual] !... The photo shows set-up for using the WE 408A... Also, the pictorial in the manual is a bit off... When switching from 6J1 to We 408A, all you need to do is change the switches to the 408A side... And of course, install your favorite op-amp... The pin-out on the op-amp should allow only one way to correctly install the op-amp, as you have two thinner pins on only one side...
    If anyone has a refutation of this, please advise!...
  9. gibosi
    Some LD 1+ have switches (the older ones) and some have computer jumpers (the newer ones). Otherwise, everything is essentially the same.
    However, I have no idea what you mean regarding opamps having "two thinner pins on only one side." All that is necessary is to match the circular indentation (or notch on some opamps) to the notch on the socket to ensure proper alignment. Below is a MUSES01 opamp with a circular indentation. In the picture on the LD website, you can see a notch on the stock opamp.
  10. signet02
    OK, thanks... Good to know... I thought I'd seen something other than two switches during my brief look-see inside the unit... But at the onset, all was not clear... The J5 and J6 jumper designation in the pic threw me off though... There were only 4 jumpers visible... And only 4 referred to in the manual...
  11. Kukuk
    Heh, thanks, but I was able to get a seller lined up!
  12. MunkyOne
    Yes, it seems that LD site is not maintained fully updated.   If it is of any help to those of you who may have a version 3, here is a picture of my LD1+ V3.0 board.  The jumpers etc. are fairly clear.
  13. signet02
    Munky: Thanks for that... It makes the whole thing a lot clearer to me now... In place of the switches, it looks like a center-tapped arrangement where you just lift the jumpers, and shift them to the opposite side, the center pin being the feeder, right?... And of course, J1 and J2 are properly marked, and are left open for the WE 408A...
  14. kvtaco17
    cool cool.
  15. MunkyOne
    You are most welcome signet02.
    Yes, you are correct.  J1 and J2 open for EF95 tube family (20v heaters).   K1 and K2 jumpers connectting the L/H two pins, marked '408A' on the board.  J3 & 4 open (3x gain) or closed (7x gain) depending on whether you need high or low gain (high or low impedance headphones).
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