Lead-free soldering. High quality components

[sassysound]

So, I just finished building my pimeta and guess what .. .I 'm not satisfied.

Im building PPA.

And this time, I decided I'm going to make it a high quality one with high quality components.

If I want high quality components, it makes sense to me to use high quality solder and hook-up cables as well as connection jacks. So here is my question.

What do you recommend for a high quality PPA, lead-free solder? types of hookup cables, etc. Also what are the equipment I need to be able to use them? e.g. LEad-free solder...does it require a special kind of soldering iron? flux?

Also, I would like to know how much difference these components will make? especially respect to quality hookup cables. Because, now I know how much sound difference headphone cables make and it seems like poor quality hookup cables are probably a quality bottleneck.... any comments regarding this mattar would be very appreciated

ss

 

[Jazper]

I use kester 2% silver solder, works just as well as normal solder and is a bit harder/stronger.

I also use belden silver coated copper, teflon insulated, stranded 22awg hookup wire.

both are good quality

 

[sassysound]

What about their sound quality ?

 

[Jazper]

I don't believe in ICs. You gotta remember that the parts should have good mechanical contact with the solder pads when you put them in, and that's the material that the current will be going through primarily, secondary is the tracks of the pcb which are copper. I don't think solder is going to make that much difference. The reason I use silver solder is because it's stronger than ordinary solder, and has a nice shine to it Kester 63/37 would be just as good imho

As for the hookup wire, I just use it because it's stiff, good quality, the insulation doesn't shrink. When you're talking the small amount of wire that you use within the amp, I don't think it's going to make THAT much difference tbh.

 

[sassysound]

Wait, isn't the solder one making the primary connection betweenthe component and the PCB?

 

[Jazper]

Quote:

Originally Posted by sassysound Wait, isn't the solder one making the primary connection betweenthe component and the PCB?

it shouldn't be..

you should be bending the leads of the components so that they touch the solder pads anyhow before you solder.. so there is a good mechanical connection before you solder.

 

[sassysound]

hmmmmmmmmmm


are you sure because if that's the case why don't they just use a superglue

 

[Jazper]

Quote:

Originally Posted by sassysound hmmmmmmmmmm are you sure because if that's the case why don't they just use a superglue

well, partly .. they handle current also.. I still think solder would make bugger all difference here

 

[RnB180]

lead free silver solder was a pain for me to work with,


I got the radio shack silver bearing solder with rosin core that was a beauty, flows nicely, but didnt cool as shiney as I wouldve liked.

I tried some kester silver solder and that stuff stinks, I dont use it much unless its back up.


I use cardas silver solder now, it has a mirror like finish and very solid looking, but flows not as easy as the radio shack.

if you want to go all out, why not use high purity silver wire? Vampire wire seems to also sell their own version of hookup wire and so does Cardas.

 

[sassysound]

So is it jsut the shiny and solid factor? no sound quality factor?

Do you mean 2% silver solders? or can you get higher % solder than that?

 

[Jazper]

Quote:

Originally Posted by sassysound So is it jsut the shiny and solid factor? no sound quality factor? Do you mean 2% silver solders? or can you get higher % solder than that?

you can get up to 5% silver.. more silver, harder it is.. harder it is to use

 

[guzzler]

There shouldn't be a bend at the base of the wire, people just do that to stop things falling out. The solder provides the main mechanical and electrical connection, think SMD

 

[sassysound]

Quote:

Originally Posted by guzzler There shouldn't be a bend at the base of the wire, people just do that to stop things falling out. The solder provides the main mechanical and electrical connection, think SMD

That's what I thought.

 

[ericj]

Quote:

Originally Posted by sassysound Also what are the equipment I need to be able to use them? e.g. LEad-free solder...does it require a special kind of soldering iron? flux?

The superior wetting properties of lead make it easier to get a good solder joint. A defense contractor in town used to special order solder with about 4% extra lead because they felt it provided a stronger joint.

So, since you're not going to have the lead, regular old rosin may not do the trick for you. As i recommended in another lead-free thread, get yourself some RMA type solder flux. That's Rosin Mildly Activated.

It's rosin flux with a little bit of acid in it that cleans and deoxidizes the surfaces so it's easier to get a good joint, but unlike activated flux, organic flux, and water based fluxes, it's not so caustic that you have to clean it off the board when you're done.

You can buy an RMA flux pen for $4.30 here:

http://www.hmcelectronics.com/cgi-bi...duct/4800-0039

If you were going to be ordering at least $16.30 worth of stuff from Digikey anyway, their part number for the Kester 186 flux pen is KE1803-ND and it costs $3.70.

Great for pads, a little fiddly for wires.

I've found a few places that will sell me 1 gallon tubs of RMA paste flux, nobody selling a few ounces at a time.

You can get RMA-core lead-free solders from Kester and other makers these days that are said to be greatly superior to previous lead-free offerings. Kester's is TK5930. I've seen it in rolls as little as a half pound for around $8.

You can also get lead-free solder pastes with mildly activated flux mixed in. That would be Qualitek 215D or Kester TCS-502-3 or TCS-001-M80T.

Liquid flux is a mess. If you do get liquid flux, I recommend a needle-type flux dispenser with a fine needle.

Also, you may find that it is harder to tin your soldering iron tip with lead-free solder. This is often due to mineral deposits from tap water.

Buy a new sponge, wet it only with distilled water, and you won't get mineral deposits on your tip.

 

[tyre]

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