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Nothing wrong with that 4-pin connector. It will work fine.
An interesting point about oxidation... silver oxide is still a good conductor whereas copper oxide is not. One of my hobbies is rebuilding/restoring vintage tube audio equipment. I see a lot of copper cables where the resistance has gone high due to oxidation. Nothing like green contacts and green ooze creeping out of the ends of connectors. Of course, nothing I have seen on my bench uses silver, except old Tektronix gear (oscilloscopes, which are a joy to work on & repair).
In my own experimentation, with my admittedly bad hearing, I find greater differences in SQ coming from connectors & connections than wire type. I also think that the geometry of the wire can have a big impact, but I can't figure out the physics involved. I also think there may be some sonic signatures that can be attributed to the composition and type of insulation on the cables. With copper cables, the insulations that melt provide a seal around wire at a soldered joint, which protects the copper from oxidation. Teflon insulation doesn't melt at soldering temperatures, and does NOT provide a seal.
I'm still fussing around with high-purity single-crystal copper cables and high-purity silver as well. So far these have mostly been for interconnects or speaker wires. Haven't yet had time to experiment with headphone cables, but I'm planning to. Most of what I read published by the makers of high-end cables is just pure bullsh*t. My next project will be some silver balanced headphone cables for my LCD-2's so I can try them with a fully balanced Atma-Sphere MP3 preamp that I'm borrowing.
I'll post back if I learn anything. If I were purchasing a set, I'd look hard at the TWag V2's.
The Piccolino and Silver/Blue/Black dragon headphone cables are all shielded; well, the Piccolino uses a tubular shield surrounding the center conductor as a return, it's technically a coaxial cable. I'm not sure how shielding would pose a problem in any way, it's more one of those just in case things. It is probably a bad idea to have it directly against the wires (the metal braid) which is why most designs have some cotton and other stuff in between.
Is this the cable you, or someone else, referred to earlier as "round woven 8 wire LCD2 cables" from ALO. I'm having trouble understanding what is what on their site. Whicch ones are these and are they better then "old ones", whichever ones they are? Maybe you could help me out and cross-reference the old and new with their web-page designation on ALO. Thanks.
I made a cable using teflon insulated silver plated solid #26 wire, twisted by pair then the 2 pairs braided.
Great cable. Wire available sometimes on eBay.
Model R8-C. That's the current model that I've evaluated and like very much. I have not yet heard the RW8-C.
I am trying to get some clarification on that, to see if there is any difference in the cable structure or just the terminations. They now have the RW-8 model in both copper and copper+ silver returns.
I have only seen and heard the R8-C model so I cannot speak to the others. Seems like maybe there's some ad copy errors on Ken's site.
I was thinking about the cable shielding question again. Although interference (of any sort) absorbed or carried by unshielded cable may not present as hum or buzz, I do believe it does come through as interference. It may add greyness or haze or muddy the sound. Broad terms, I know. Look at the differences that a shielded multi-plug power box can make in the system chain (eg Furutech).
There is just SO much crap in the air and in power-lines these days that some of it must make it's way into the sonic signature of audio equipment via such things as cables and power cords. Look at the trouble top-flight recording studios go to with cabling and power.
The standard LCD-2 cables use a quality (shielded?) copper cable. If you are going to ditch the standard LCD-2 cable, you might as well get the best quality materials (yeah, silver for me) and the best thought out design. Otherwise, why bother changing the standard cable at all?
Any more comments on the Norse 4 conductor cables, Skylab?
Really like them. I have gone to using them exclusively. They're the best combination of ergonomics, being very lightweight and flexible, and sonics, being very smooth, and transparent.
Got a link to where Norse Audio cables can be purchased?
You have to email Trevor, firstname.lastname@example.org, and tell him you are interested in purchasing cables from him.
What is the price range for a 10' norse cable?
James, do you have the piccolino just for the jh13s or also for the lcd2s? how much are they ?