[Podster]

Hey guys long time no talk.

How's everyone getting along with their KZ purchases?

The ZN1 mini is pretty sweet from the few times I jammed it, and the hds3 is pretty decent as well.

Still there's something about the HDS1 and Ed9 that gets most of my KZ listening time.

Cheers fellas (and ladies)

I concur, big 10-4 Buddy come on

 

[paijo]

  Atm, trying ED9 brass nozzles without grills (shortened length from grill end). I was assuming that due to nozzle breathing holes bass will be lost cause ATE itself already has breathing ports but surprise surprise - no! By initial impression might even sound better than ED9 gold nozzles, Testing will go on

hi coil... may i know, what cable which you used on this mod??it seems familiar, but i forgot what cable is it.

 

[BoxVampire]

Hi guys,bit new to this.Recently got the ED9 and there was a strange assortment of eartips in the box. The s/m/l tips weren't the "red core" hybrid ones I had seen in a previous <a href="http://forum.xda-developers.com/general/accessories/review-kz-ed9-kz-ate-ear-headphones-t3119184">xda review</a> and the middle size was just missing.
 
Instead there were two hybrid tips on the filters which were the same size and a separate bag of foam tips.
 
Is this normal? and does it actually make a difference?

 

[CoiL]

 

  Atm, trying ED9 brass nozzles without grills (shortened length from grill end). I was assuming that due to nozzle breathing holes bass will be lost cause ATE itself already has breathing ports but surprise surprise - no! By initial impression might even sound better than ED9 gold nozzles, Testing will go on

hi coil... may i know, what cable which you used on this mod??it seems familiar, but i forgot what cable is it.

For ATE-FF mod I used this "IE800" cable (it is not original and different material): http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Semi-Finished-3-5mm-Earphone-audio-DIY-OFC-wire-cable-For-IE800-repair-upgrade-LBH1026/2044467318.html
It`s good cable but for those who don`t like memory-wire, it`s not good choice because up from Y splitter to speaker units it has mem-w. Down from Y splitter to jack it is soft and flexible.
With over-ear wearing style and such "custom" shape, I personally like that cable, though when not wearing it must be stored correctly.
With WOM-mod I used different "IE800" cable that is much softer and has no memory, it came with YINJW "IE800" ceramic version. For WOM-mod I think non-MW cable suits better. I have some other cables incoming soon...

 

[EISENbricher]

Hey guys long time no talk.

How's everyone getting along with their KZ purchases?

The ZN1 mini is pretty sweet from the few times I jammed it, and the hds3 is pretty decent as well.

Still there's something about the HDS1 and Ed9 that gets most of my KZ listening time.

Cheers fellas (and ladies)

Missing you in this thread, man. Anyways thanks for the valuable opinion

ZN1mini currently occupies most of my time. I see great potential in HDS3 but sadly my pair is imbalanced. Waiting for a good piece to arrive.

 

[j0p3Y]

Read good things about the KZ ZN1. Best bang for buck? Or a different candidate in this price range. Recently bought the Joyroom E107 and the **** UE. And already got the Xiaomi Piston 2, 3 and hybrid.

 

[B9Scrambler]

Read good things about the KZ ZN1. Best bang for buck? Or a different candidate in this price range. Recently bought the Joyroom E107 and the **** UE. And already got the Xiaomi Piston 2, 3 and hybrid.

I'm still waiting on my ZN1 Mini, so in the interim I'll suggest the EDR2. Top class KZ.

 

[paijo]

 
For ATE-FF mod I used this "IE800" cable (it is not original and different material): http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Semi-Finished-3-5mm-Earphone-audio-DIY-OFC-wire-cable-For-IE800-repair-upgrade-LBH1026/2044467318.html
It`s good cable but for those who don`t like memory-wire, it`s not good choice because up from Y splitter to speaker units it has mem-w. Down from Y splitter to jack it is soft and flexible.
With over-ear wearing style and such "custom" shape, I personally like that cable, though when not wearing it must be stored correctly.
With WOM-mod I used different "IE800" cable that is much softer and has no memory, it came with YINJW "IE800" ceramic version. For WOM-mod I think non-MW cable suits better. I have some other cables incoming soon...

I intend to replace mya ate cable, but for now, i don't have any candidate for it. Lately, i only do a reterminate the jack to viablue, and i think it didn't suit with my taste, it became too warm for me, the detail on high freq is missing. 
After i watch your album, i want to mod the housing as yours, made the hole for the back grill, so the back grill will opened directly, good mod i think.

 

[fallrsk]

Sooo.. New KZ called the DT3? http://s.aliexpress.com/E3QryA7F

Also found what seems to be new C56R I think it was..

 

[Shawn71]

.Sooo.. New KZ called the DT3? http://s.aliexpress.com/E3QryA7F

Also found what seems to be new C56R I think it was..

Thats the older model (FA model inspired) like dt5,both dual dynamic......

 

[CoiL]

 

 
For ATE-FF mod I used this "IE800" cable (it is not original and different material): http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Semi-Finished-3-5mm-Earphone-audio-DIY-OFC-wire-cable-For-IE800-repair-upgrade-LBH1026/2044467318.html
It`s good cable but for those who don`t like memory-wire, it`s not good choice because up from Y splitter to speaker units it has mem-w. Down from Y splitter to jack it is soft and flexible.
With over-ear wearing style and such "custom" shape, I personally like that cable, though when not wearing it must be stored correctly.
With WOM-mod I used different "IE800" cable that is much softer and has no memory, it came with YINJW "IE800" ceramic version. For WOM-mod I think non-MW cable suits better. I have some other cables incoming soon...

I intend to replace mya ate cable, but for now, i don't have any candidate for it. Lately, i only do a reterminate the jack to viablue, and i think it didn't suit with my taste, it became too warm for me, the detail on high freq is missing. 
After i watch your album, i want to mod the housing as yours, made the hole for the back grill, so the back grill will opened directly, good mod i think.

If You want details on high freq, then do nozzle mod too (ED9 brass nozzles) not only back grill. If You don`t want cable to change sound and become "warm", then measure Your ATE original cable impedance and make sure new cable doesn`t have it higher. Long time ago I measured stock cable impedances:

 
Another interesting observation. I had multimeter out for some electronics tinkering and thought I measure 
KZ IEM impedances too. Here they are:
 
* ATE
stated impedance 16 Ohm
measured impedance L - 19.7 Ohm, R - 19.6 Ohm, L>R (left through right driver) 37.2
 
* ANV
stated impedance 18 Ohm
measured impedance L - 32.2 Ohm, R - 32.6 Ohm, L>R (left through right driver) 64.4 

 Imho, ANV needs amping for sure! 
 
* ED9
stated impedance 18 Ohm
measured impedance L - 16.1 Ohm, R - 16.4 Ohm, L>R (left through right driver) 31.6

Don`t remember what it became after cable change and don`t have multimeter around atm. Will measure it again and report back when possible.

 

[paijo]

  If You want details on high freq, then do nozzle mod too (ED9 brass nozzles) not only back grill. If You don`t want cable to change sound and become "warm", then measure Your ATE original cable impedance and make sure new cable doesn`t have it higher. Long time ago I measured stock cable impedances:
Don`t remember what it became after cable change and don`t have multimeter around atm. Will measure it again and report back when possible.

hemmm... nozzle mod??i think i missed it... can you give me the link to your post about it??

AFAIK, higher impedance, will give warmer sounding, so if i need to make it more detail, i think, it should be lower impedance. CMIIW.

 

[CoiL]

 

  If You want details on high freq, then do nozzle mod too (ED9 brass nozzles) not only back grill. If You don`t want cable to change sound and become "warm", then measure Your ATE original cable impedance and make sure new cable doesn`t have it higher. Long time ago I measured stock cable impedances:
Don`t remember what it became after cable change and don`t have multimeter around atm. Will measure it again and report back when possible.

hemmm... nozzle mod??i think i missed it... can you give me the link to your post about it??

Yes, nozzle mod - I`ve changed ATE nozzles for ED9 brass nozzles. I tried also gold nozzle and fiddled with breathing holes on ATE plastic body & brass nozzle.
Sorry I don`t have time to search my post about it atm, I`m at work. But You can use thread search and use "ATE-FF" or "Forest Fairy" or ATE mod to find my posts about it.

AFAIK, higher impedance, will give warmer sounding, so if i need to make it more detail, i think, it should be lower impedance. CMIIW.

Correct, lower impedance cable should give more clear and detailed sound in theory. Sometimes differences are subtle, if any. Can`t tell about ATE for sure (haven`t compared impedance before & after) but I think it got more "clear" after cable change. But then again it may have been because of other mods or combination of them.
 
I don`t know if You noticed my answer to user question in picture comments but here is list what I did:

* Top plastic covers removed and replaced with wood backplates.
* Golden mesh-grills taken from inside and installed inside wood backplate, right above driver unit without gap to driver shell.
* Plastic nozzles have been cut off, sanded level/even, over-drilled holes and replaced with ED9 brass nozzles.
* Body behind backplates has been sanded down to lower enclosure shape reaching out of ear.
* Cable changed for "IE800" style cable with memory wire.
* Using with KZ whirlwind, JVC spiral dot or no-name ultra-soft white silicones tips
* ED9 brass nozzle tip has been grinded shorter on top part to the next "edge" it has and inside hole edge has been grinded concave, like "trompet".
* and to me (subjective) best combination was closed brass nozzle breathing hole with half-open ATE plastic enclosure hole. Though, leaving latter full-open + closed brass nozzle hole was also very good.
 

 

[paijo]

  Yes, nozzle mod - I`ve changed ATE nozzles for ED9 brass nozzles. I tried also gold nozzle and fiddled with breathing holes on ATE plastic body & brass nozzle.
Sorry I don`t have time to search my post about it atm, I`m at work. But You can use thread search and use "ATE-FF" or "Forest Fairy" or ATE mod to find my posts about it.
Correct, lower impedance cable should give more clear and detailed sound in theory. Sometimes differences are subtle, if any. Can`t tell about ATE for sure (haven`t compared impedance before & after) but I think it got more "clear" after cable change. But then again it may have been because of other mods or combination of them.
 
I don`t know if You noticed my answer to user question in picture comments but here is list what I did:

wow... thanks a lot for the mod info...it will be so helpful to me.
and for the nozzle mod, i will search it my self..thanks for keyword help. 

 

[CoiL]

Np, ask if any help needed!

Hardest part about nozzle mod is to make drilling-stand for drill bench to over-drill nozzle holes under correct angle into exact diameter & depth for ED9 nozzle winding part. In this pic You can see little shiny edge on the right earpiece under silicone tip edge:

 
Edit: Oh, I totally forgot to mention that:
* ED9 brass nozzle tip has been grinded shorter on top part to the next "edge" it has and inside hole edge has been grinded concave, like "trompet".
* and to me (subjective) best combination was closed brass nozzle breathing hole with half-open ATE plastic enclosure hole. Though, leaving latter full-open + closed brass nozzle hole was also very good. More You close the hole, more it gives bass/percussion tightness and punch.
* also, backplates/body angle has been set exactly to my ears shape/angle