K340 Recable Time
Dec 7, 2006 at 4:44 PM Thread Starter Post #1 of 7

a1rocketpilot

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Well I have all my parts to recable my K340's, save for some heatshrink to make it look better. Got a couple questions though. When recabling, I am supposed to wire the dynamic driver and the PCB in parallel right? So it would be Plug>Dynamic Positive>PCB Positive and PCB Ground>Dynamic Ground>Plug? I should also cut the wires going from the PCB to the dynamic driver, right? Also, for the 1/4 TRS, I got a Cardas 1/4 stereo plug, which doesn't really look like it has any solder cups for the ring or sleeve. Should I just use lots of flux and try and get it to stick on the surface of the ring and sleeve?

Aditya
 
Dec 7, 2006 at 10:21 PM Post #3 of 7

spacemanspliff

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ask Larry. he probably won't divulge all his secrets but whatever he does to the K340s is pretty darn amazing.
 
Dec 7, 2006 at 11:12 PM Post #4 of 7

a1rocketpilot

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Mazuki /img/forum/go_quote.gif
When I did my recable, I just replaced each section of wire with my new wire. I did not change the wiring part. I don't think it is wise to do so.


Many people have had good results bypassing the PCB for the dynamic driver. According to AKG's K340 Service Manual, neither driver has a crossover, and both are run full range apparently. The dynamic driver is attached to the PCB, but it is just a straight trace, so by bypassing the PCB, you get rid of 4 solder joints, 2 copper traces, and 2 extra wires to the dynamic driver. The PCB is there so the headphone can accomodate the step up transformer for the electret.

My main issue I guess is more so with the Cardas 1/4" plug rather than the K340 recable. Though while I was looking at the PCB, I noticed that there were two holes that led to copper traces but I can't really see where the traces go. The problem is I have no idea of the transformer's pin-out, so I can't really trace their path either. Anyone seen this before on their PCB?

Aditya
 
Dec 13, 2006 at 7:22 AM Post #5 of 7

a1rocketpilot

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Well, I just finished the first half of the recable, and let me tell you, soldering Cardas wire onto a Cardas 1/4" plug is a royal pain in the ass! The wire itself was rather fragile, and on my first attempt, I ended up losing about half the strands in one of my exposed segments, so I had to cut down by a cm or so. Getting a soldering iron in there is also insanely tough, as there really is no open area where I can stick the iron in to solder the ground connection. Thankfully the signal wires were faster, but my goodness, I'm happy I don't have to do recable jobs often! Granted, I will soon be soldering Cardas GRFA's for my SOHA soon, and hopefully that will go somewhat more smoothly...

Now, to perform the actual recable procedure...

Aditya
 
Dec 13, 2006 at 8:50 PM Post #6 of 7

aznsensazian

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I found this really helpful when recabling. Check it out
smily_headphones1.gif
http://www6.head-fi.org/forums/showt...light=akg+k340
 
Dec 13, 2006 at 9:24 PM Post #7 of 7

a1rocketpilot

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Wow, thanks a lot for that! I was going to solder the wires to the original "hot" pads on the PCB, but now I see that the wires going from the driver to the PCB are attached to the same traces, so it may not be much, but thats still about a cm of trace I don't have in the circuit.

Now, I also have some 18ga 6N UP-OCC wire from Neotech, which I could use to replace the thin wires from the dynamic driver to the PCB. Could I use this stuff with good effect, or should I buy some small guage copper or silver and use that? Since these wires will be carrying the signal to the electret, I have heard that a fine gauge wire works best, since the larger gauges can muck up the treble. Would it be worth it to do this at all?

Aditya
 

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