Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW!
Jul 17, 2012 at 8:29 PM Post #8,851 of 11,345
^ (stock) + v (840 pads) = more -
Very easy visuals. So if you start modding and end up with recessed mids and too much else, switch back to stock pads it might just do the trick. If, that is, the stock pads are comfortable enough for you.
 
Jul 17, 2012 at 9:42 PM Post #8,852 of 11,345
Jul 17, 2012 at 11:11 PM Post #8,853 of 11,345
Quote:
^ (stock) + v (840 pads) = more -
Very easy visuals. So if you start modding and end up with recessed mids and too much else, switch back to stock pads it might just do the trick. If, that is, the stock pads are comfortable enough for you.

 
I found that stock pads alone make them sound very tinny, if your having recessed mids, I think the best solution would be to remove some acoustic foam, too much kills off lower treble, and make the whole spectrum somewhat muffled.
 
Jul 18, 2012 at 1:05 AM Post #8,854 of 11,345
Quote:
 
I found that stock pads alone make them sound very tinny, if your having recessed mids, I think the best solution would be to remove some acoustic foam, too much kills off lower treble, and make the whole spectrum somewhat muffled.


Depends on your setup. Stock pads works very well for some of my mods.
They're just not very comfortable....
 
Note that none of my mods till now plasters the whole interior with plasticine/newplast or acoustic foam.
 
Jul 18, 2012 at 1:33 AM Post #8,855 of 11,345
while waiting for my srh 840 pads.. i modded my t50rp a bit and it is based on using the FA003 pads. i dont have pics right now since my camera phone is MIA and the mod is really not official. its a relatively easy mod though, what i did are the following...
 
- paxmate everyting inside the cups
- plasticine baffles
- covered the vent in the driver baffle area inside the cups with an electrical tape, then punched a hole using a needle (BMF reference)
- removed stock felt, except for the felt covering the driver, on the earside baffle area then... (another BMF reference)
- ...fatmat on the earside driver baffle area, then covered with adhesive felt to cover the "sticky" stuff of the fatmat (BMF reference again, thanks!)
- no cotton/wool/accoustic foam inside the cups
- vent felt inside the cups are still there, covered with electrical tape and paxmate at the top
- stock white driver felt in place, nothing covering it
- headband mod thingy that LFF provided (now it looks bulky wearing it, but with superior comfort)
- fa003 pads
 
 
it could be placebo but what i noticed are the following:
- mids not too forward anymore
- now it has bass slam but still lacking for me
- it also gives more body to the low end
- it sounds more "open", even if the headphone is closed except a small hole on the driver side baffle. maybe its the fa003 pads?
- comfort waay better now, sr007 comfort something like that but it sure is more comfortable than lcd2. and it doesnt get hot!
- treble stays the same
 
 
i could be wrong but, i noticed that everytime i cover the driver felt with something, the bass quantity and the bass impact reduces. i tried using thick felt, thin felt, transpore tape, micropore tape. i haven't tried putting reflex dot to see how the treble will perform though. ill use it as it is for now because im scared that the "flap" of the fa003 pads will be torn apart and i dont have any idea to stitch and do the "tube mod" for it.
 
ill just wait the srh 840 pads and fix the whole thing, but if the 840 pads is as uncomfortable as the stock pads, i guess ill just stick with the fa003 pads.
 
Jul 18, 2012 at 3:19 AM Post #8,856 of 11,345
Quote:
while waiting for my srh 840 pads.. i modded my t50rp a bit and it is based on using the FA003 pads. i dont have pics right now since my camera phone is MIA and the mod is really not official. its a relatively easy mod though, what i did are the following...
 
- paxmate everyting inside the cups
- plasticine baffles
- covered the vent in the driver baffle area inside the cups with an electrical tape, then punched a hole using a needle (BMF reference)
- removed stock felt, except for the felt covering the driver, on the earside baffle area then... (another BMF reference)
- ...fatmat on the earside driver baffle area, then covered with adhesive felt to cover the "sticky" stuff of the fatmat (BMF reference again, thanks!)
- no cotton/wool/accoustic foam inside the cups
- vent felt inside the cups are still there, covered with electrical tape and paxmate at the top
- stock white driver felt in place, nothing covering it
- headband mod thingy that LFF provided (now it looks bulky wearing it, but with superior comfort)
- fa003 pads
 
 
it could be placebo but what i noticed are the following:
- mids not too forward anymore
- now it has bass slam but still lacking for me
- it also gives more body to the low end
- it sounds more "open", even if the headphone is closed except a small hole on the driver side baffle. maybe its the fa003 pads?
- comfort waay better now, sr007 comfort something like that but it sure is more comfortable than lcd2. and it doesnt get hot!
- treble stays the same
 
 
i could be wrong but, i noticed that everytime i cover the driver felt with something, the bass quantity and the bass impact reduces. i tried using thick felt, thin felt, transpore tape, micropore tape. i haven't tried putting reflex dot to see how the treble will perform though. ill use it as it is for now because im scared that the "flap" of the fa003 pads will be torn apart and i dont have any idea to stitch and do the "tube mod" for it.
 
ill just wait the srh 840 pads and fix the whole thing, but if the 840 pads is as uncomfortable as the stock pads, i guess ill just stick with the fa003 pads.

 
Have you considered trying a small "notch" vent on the cup bass vent?  BMF has noted this in his 8.1 spec.  Also, while you've indicated, you currently have the stock white felt covering on the rear of the driver, BMF has noted that with use of some of the tapes - micropore, transpore, etc. - there can eventually be a small build-up of adhesive that remains on the surface.  It would appear that eventually, while the felt appears to be stock, its properties might have changed due to the adhesive build up.
 
Jul 18, 2012 at 9:06 AM Post #8,857 of 11,345
Cross-post FYI:
 
 
Quote:
 
Times like this make me wish I knew how to program... I can see how the database/queries would work, but have no idea how to implement it. And don't sell yourself short about your measurements not being worth the effort. No one else so far has attacked it as vigorously as you have, and the key thing is that you have approached it in a methodical and consistent manner which makes it very valuable. 
 
If we could somehow build a frontend for the database, if you (or anyone else) ever built up another set of graphs it would be a "simple" matter to simply import that or create another database for use. 
 
Are you able to make overlays of the FR graphs? Such as for each modding arrangement but with the three different pads? Or with the same pads but different mods? 

 
Anyone can download and use REW for free but please contribute (any amount) to support the site. You can use, view, and manipulate .mdat files without having to actually make any measurements of your own. Here's the link:  http://www.hometheatershack.com/roomeq/
 
I uploaded the REW raw data (.mdat files) to Google Docs for all incremental measurements I made. You first download and install REW and then download and save the .mdat files from Google Docs into your computer's 'Downloads' file. Next, open REW and click on 'Open', go to your 'Download' files, double click one of the .mdat files, and the data files will load into REW.
 
The default graph format is SPL FR. Tabs across the top of the measurement window allow you to 'Generate' waterfall plots and spectrograms. You must first adjust the SPL FR display to 'Zero' before Generating waterfalls and spectrograms.  To do this, click the 'gear' icon at the top right of the measurement window, type in -155 in the offset window and then click 'Add to Data.' Go to the left side, vertical slider to pull the adjusted SPL FR down into the display window. Now, you can generate waterfalls and spectrograms along with decay and several other options, if interested. 
 
In the T50RP Mods Summary WIKI started by Ardilla, I have a WIKI entitled "BMF V8.1 Mods". One of the links in this group takes you to a Google Doc that explains more about how to use REW, including screen shots for clarity.
 
Within REW's measurement window, and after you've 'Opened' a .mdat data file, you can delete all but the particular graphs you want to overlay with one another by clicking the 'red X' you will see on the left side of the measurement window. Next, click 'All SPL', located at the top tool bar of the measurement window, to display your chosen graphs as an overlay. You can also change the resolution by clicking the '-' or '+' tabs at the top left of the SPL graph; i.e. 5 db or 10 dB. You can save this specific group of graphs by clicking 'Save All' at the top left of the window and naming it. When you're done comparing this set of measurements, close this file, after naming and saving it, by clicking the 'Remove All' tab and re-open the complete .mdat file to repeat the process for a different group of comparisons. For example, you can delete all but the 3 graphs for "Stock Left Acoustipack Lite, Newplast, and type of pad (840, Stock, and FA-003 pads) for comparing and overlaying these 3 graphs. Do the same for any other combination of incremental measurements in one or both of the two sets of .mdat files I uploaded to Google Docs.
 
Here are the links for my Incremental Mods and Measurements REW .mdat files stored in Google Docs:
 
1 of 2 .mdat data files:  https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B5ZWXtWdNv9UczQtX3lxUW1CWnM
 
2 of 2 .mdat data files:  https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B5ZWXtWdNv9UblZtWjlISjYxSm8
 
***I have not yet tested this so let me know if it does not work and I'll troubleshoot it.***
 
Edit: I just tested the first .mdat data set. It worked and downloaded the files already adjusted at 'Zero' display and 5 dB resolution. You Must first download and install REW.
 
Jul 18, 2012 at 4:27 PM Post #8,858 of 11,345
So I am diving head first into hi-fi audio and decided to buy everything at once.   A week ago I had nothing of any quality other than some Shure 100 dollar IEMs.
 
Now my T50rp setup is almost finished! 
 
I have tons of mod materials (special thank you to BMF!), vmoda cables (figured I'd start with these so I don't tune with error), 840 replacement pads and an O2 amp!  My DAC is on its way.  
 
There is just something missing...  Oh yeah, my headphones.  :frowning2:
 
Everything else was shipped USPS or Amazon Prime 2-day shipping except for the headphones.  What an oddly reverse order to receive things in.  
popcorn.gif

 
Jul 18, 2012 at 5:34 PM Post #8,859 of 11,345
Dyaems, do you have original 003 pads, or the new softer version, same as HM5 pads?  If you're not getting enough bass with those you've got something very wrong happening in your cups. 
 
Jul 18, 2012 at 7:35 PM Post #8,860 of 11,345
Quote:
FWIW, I made a bunch of mods and measured each one incrementally over the past 2 weekends. Wow! It took 20 hours but it was fun. I hope the information is useful.
 
Cheers,
 
BMF

 
Good Stuff BMF...Thank You!
 
Quote:
[size=small]I think the Shure 840 pads is responsible for the major part of the improvement. I suggest to anyone who don't want to spend hours on modding, or don't want to open their T50, [/size][size=small]to only change the pads. It will make a huge difference in 5 minutes.[/size]

 
Quote:
 
 
And these two posts are such valuable contributions 
rolleyes.gif

 
I found the T50RP too mid-forward with the stock pads. Just swapping the 840 pads in did wonders for seating the mids back in line with the rest of the spectrum. The FR sounds considerably more balanced with just pad swapping. It doesn't fix any of the resonance issues, but they make them a great deal more listenable.


 
I agree, and that seems to be one of the things BMF's incremental mod graphs bear out as well. I'm thinking of buying another one of these things now to try another idea I have.
 
 
Quote:
 
i could be wrong but, i noticed that everytime i cover the driver felt with something, the bass quantity and the bass impact reduces. i tried using thick felt, thin felt, transpore tape, micropore tape. i haven't tried putting reflex dot to see how the treble will perform though. ill use it as it is for now because im scared that the "flap" of the fa003 pads will be torn apart and i dont have any idea to stitch and do the "tube mod" for it.

 
Do you have any scrap fabric laying around the house? I never had much luck with putting felt over the stock paper. I had some tweed like material over the stock paper that sounded great, and highly recommend that if you have any...or experimenting with materials (fabrics) other than felt. I  was reluctant to remove the stock paper for whatever reason, but ended up being forced too. Anyway the stock paper has been replaced by silk or rayon type material, and the bass impact on my T50's is the best it's been.
 
 
Quote:
So I am diving head first into hi-fi audio and decided to buy everything at once.   A week ago I had nothing of any quality other than some Shure 100 dollar IEMs.
 
Now my T50rp setup is almost finished! 
 
I have tons of mod materials (special thank you to BMF!), vmoda cables (figured I'd start with these so I don't tune with error), 840 replacement pads and an O2 amp!  My DAC is on its way.  
 
There is just something missing...  Oh yeah, my headphones.  :frowning2:
 
Everything else was shipped USPS or Amazon Prime 2-day shipping except for the headphones.  What an oddly reverse order to receive things in.  
popcorn.gif

 
Good deal JJ. If you can stand not jumping right into the modding process, I would suggest spending a couple or four days listening to them stock, and then another couple of days with just a pad switch. Just a suggestion...enjoy!
 
Jul 18, 2012 at 7:54 PM Post #8,861 of 11,345
Quote:
 
Do you have any scrap fabric laying around the house? I never had much luck with putting felt over the stock paper. I had some tweed like material over the stock paper that sounded great, and highly recommend that if you have any...or experimenting with materials (fabrics) other than felt. I  was reluctant to remove the stock paper for whatever reason, but ended up being forced too. Anyway the stock paper has been replaced by silk or rayon type material, and the bass impact on my T50's is the best it's been.

 
Thanks, will do try that as well, but I forgot how to remove the stock white felt covering the drivers... im pretty sure i read it a few hundred pages back...
 
Quote:
Dyaems, do you have original 003 pads, or the new softer version, same as HM5 pads?  If you're not getting enough bass with those you've got something very wrong happening in your cups. 

 
I got the newer version of the pads, the one where everything is soft and using the same material. maaaaybe theres something wrong with the dampening inside so i might as well remove everything and start again when i have time.
 
Quote:
 
Have you considered trying a small "notch" vent on the cup bass vent?  BMF has noted this in his 8.1 spec.  Also, while you've indicated, you currently have the stock white felt covering on the rear of the driver, BMF has noted that with use of some of the tapes - micropore, transpore, etc. - there can eventually be a small build-up of adhesive that remains on the surface.  It would appear that eventually, while the felt appears to be stock, its properties might have changed due to the adhesive build up.


ah no, the white driver felt is still clean. i try to stick the center of the tape with paper to reduce its stickyness, ill try to post the pic of the white driver felt when i get a camera sometime, it is still looks as new. I havent tried making a "notch" yet because i will also cut the stock felt covering it, right?
 
Jul 18, 2012 at 8:07 PM Post #8,862 of 11,345
why not put the transpore tape upside down when you use it, you can even secure it win place with two small strips of non-residue-leaving double sided tape on the cross members, this way you will get no further buildup of residue in the stock paper.  It'll stick to whatever you have on top and you may need to replace it each time you change the mods or reposition it, but otherwise it will work the same.
At least this way you know for sure it's postioned exactly the way you want it
 
Jul 18, 2012 at 9:34 PM Post #8,863 of 11,345
Quote:
I havent tried making a "notch" yet because i will also cut the stock felt covering it, right?

 
You shouldn't have to cut the stock felt at all.  Leave the factory felt in place, but use black electrical tape to create the covering with the small notch cut out in the bottom of the tape.  Then, place it over the vent.  If you're looking for some feedback to see if the mod has changed the sound, you could mount the tape on the outside of the cups, so you can adjust the size of the open a bit.  When you're happy with a size, you could then open the cups back up, place the tape over the felt / vent and then a slight bit of glue around the tape to secure it into place for a prolonged period of time.
 
Jul 18, 2012 at 9:57 PM Post #8,865 of 11,345
Quote:
I got the newer version of the pads, the one where everything is soft and using the same material. maaaaybe theres something wrong with the dampening inside so i might as well remove everything and start again when i have time.
 

 
I don't mean it like that, doing the same thing again isn't likely going to change anythign.  You probably need to make a change.  If you're not getting enough bass, first thing to do is uncover some of the cup vent.  And if you are pulling the 003 pads around the baffle, just seal them to the baffle instead using tape or rope caulk, making sure there's no leaks.  This will give you much more bass.
 

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