Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW!
Jun 18, 2012 at 9:29 AM Post #8,641 of 11,346
OK, so I've missed about the last sixty or so pages of this thread, not sure what I've missed. Saw something about a "puck" 3 or pages back, not sure what that is in reference too, but I think I just did something similar. I'll post some pictures when I reopen my cans to add back some of the fiber fill I took out. Anyway, basically what I put in the back of my cups was a little convex cup of pressed cardboard like stuff that was used to separate packaged avacado's. My mod's are pretty typical, plasticine in the baffles, silverstone in the back of the cups, 840 pads, and the stock white paper was replaced with some silk like material after I messed it up during one of my tweaking sessions. I thought they sounded a little muddy or smeared with fiber fill on top of the silverstone. Removing the fill' and adding in the convex shaped large reflex dot if you will, gave them a crisper feel, although there is a bit of resonance that hopefully adding a little bit of fiber fill back in will shore up.
 
Jun 18, 2012 at 9:44 AM Post #8,642 of 11,346
Quote:
OK, so I've missed about the last sixty or so pages of this thread, not sure what I've missed. Saw something about a "puck" 3 or pages back, not sure what that is in reference too, but I think I just did something similar. I'll post some pictures when I reopen my cans to add back some of the fiber fill I took out. Anyway, basically what I put in the back of my cups was a little convex cup of pressed cardboard like stuff that was used to separate packaged avacado's. My mod's are pretty typical, plasticine in the baffles, silverstone in the back of the cups, 840 pads, and the stock white paper was replaced with some silk like material after I messed it up during one of my tweaking sessions. I thought they sounded a little muddy or smeared with fiber fill on top of the silverstone. Removing the fill' and adding in the convex shaped large reflex dot if you will, gave them a crisper feel, although there is a bit of resonance that hopefully adding a little bit of fiber fill back in will shore up.

 
The reference to a "puck" was taking some rockwool insulation and encasing it into cheesecloth to form a puck-shaped damper that could be installed into each cup.  However, the consesus was that rockwool might not be the best product and seems to perform with mixed results.  but, encasing it in something like the fine cheesecloth would minimize the fibers from going all over the place.
 
Jun 19, 2012 at 1:52 AM Post #8,643 of 11,346
Operation Speaker Taps Completed ...
 
Having a desire to utilize my T50RPs with some more amplifiers, I took the full plunge and re-wired my headphones with some new Mogami Gold Neglex wire and 4-pin XLR connectors.  Lots of stuff is spinning through my head ... it's late (1:50 a.m. for me) and I'm trying to get a grasp of all the realized changes in the sound.  So far, the amplifier outputs are more generous in their offerings as opposed to the headphone out stage that I had been using for the Fostex.  Now, I've leveled the playing field a bit as to where I can compare my HifiMANs against the Fostex.
 
More to follow in another time.  Time for rest.
 
Jun 19, 2012 at 1:26 PM Post #8,644 of 11,346
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Jun 19, 2012 at 4:31 PM Post #8,647 of 11,346
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Three words: Deep.  Full.  Lush. 
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Is this solely because they're now balanced? Or do you have some other variables?
 
 
Got my answer. 
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Jun 19, 2012 at 4:36 PM Post #8,648 of 11,346
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Is this solely because they're now balanced? Or do you have some other variables?

 
Up until now, I had to rely on the headphone stage output for using the Fostex.  By going with the balanced connectors, I'm now using speaker taps directly connected to the speaker outputs on the amp.  Previously, the signal had to pass through the headphone stage that had its own set of "so-so" op-amps.  That is where the biggest difference lies.  You're sending a musical signal directly to your headphones that would have gone to your speakers.  So, your headphones are in essence, receiving a very solid signal and are able to perform quite a bit better.
 
I'm not knocking all headphone stages - as many are quite good.  However, when you come across one that isn't so good, then it's time to hook up the speaker taps and enjoy the music.
 
Jun 19, 2012 at 5:12 PM Post #8,649 of 11,346
My only problem with speaker taps is that the harmonic distortion out of many power amplifiers is waaaay higher than the distortion that is output by headphone amps.  My EHHA Rev A and Bijou put out more than enough power for the T50RP.  I've achieved results that match my HE-500's using those amplifiers.
 
^ This was actually Ray Samuel's motivation for building the Dark Star.  He told me that thing outputs something like 65 watts, not sure into what load that was, I'm guessing standard 15 ohms.
 
Jun 19, 2012 at 8:56 PM Post #8,650 of 11,346
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My only problem with speaker taps is that the harmonic distortion out of many power amplifiers is waaaay higher than the distortion that is output by headphone amps.  My EHHA Rev A and Bijou put out more than enough power for the T50RP.  I've achieved results that match my HE-500's using those amplifiers.
 
^ This was actually Ray Samuel's motivation for building the Dark Star.  He told me that thing outputs something like 65 watts, not sure into what load that was, I'm guessing standard 15 ohms.

 
I see what you mean.  However, if you're using a 50 watt per channel amplifier, what's the chances that you'll experience high numbers of distortion while using the first few watts?  I'll bet the number is very, very small.
 
Jun 19, 2012 at 10:30 PM Post #8,651 of 11,346
i wonder how the modded t50rps sound with a dx100..
 
..and will a 3.5mm angled neutrik plug fit into the jack connecting to the cups? or we need to salvage the angled connectors of the t50rp stock cable?
 
Jun 19, 2012 at 11:15 PM Post #8,652 of 11,346
Quote:
i wonder how the modded t50rps sound with a dx100..
 
..and will a 3.5mm angled neutrik plug fit into the jack connecting to the cups? or we need to salvage the angled connectors of the t50rp stock cable?


I'm giving the wild guess that the angled neutrik will not fit the headphone-side jack, based on the fact that the straight neutrik plug does not fit.
You'll have to enlarge the hole or find a tip where you can shave off the rubber, that is, if you plan on making DIY cables.
 
Otherwise the V-Moda audio-only cables are among the most popular around here.
 
Jun 19, 2012 at 11:17 PM Post #8,653 of 11,346
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You'll have to enlarge the hole or find a tip where you can shave off the rubber, that is, if you plan on making DIY cables.
 
 

 
I've tried this.  It doesn't really help.  It was still riddled with channel dropouts due to the moment arm imposed on the internal 3.5mm connector inside the cup.
 
Jun 19, 2012 at 11:23 PM Post #8,654 of 11,346
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I've tried this.  It doesn't really help.  It was still riddled with channel dropouts due to the moment arm imposed on the internal 3.5mm connector inside the cup.


Right I forgot about this part. I was just thinking of the entry itself with a straight plug.
 
 
And a little update about my various testing of mods...
It seems the best way to not stray too far from decent sound is to not play too much with the interior topography (as I am doing, rather than sticking to damping methods). It may be efficient to increase some mid-bass but everything else loses clarity to some extent.
As a result my current temporary setup must be HM5 stretched on and vents fully sealed (a first for me) for even half decent sound. Though, naturally, YMMV.
 
Jun 20, 2012 at 12:14 AM Post #8,655 of 11,346
I don't think the angled plug will fit. I just tried one of those 90 degree plugs (not neutrik) and the plastic above the plug had a larger girth than the hole.
The v-moda cord works wonderfully, and it's only $10 USD+postage (only $5 postage for me)
 

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