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Hi I actually had planned to drive two or three headphones with the ifi Pro iCan for direct comparison. I now understand that this is rather dangerous and might damage my headphones. Could someone please advise me how to determine what pairing fits and which not, and how to calculate this? I know there is an ifi calculator, but no matter what headphone I chose, no data shows up (https://ifi-audio.com/home-2/headphone-calculator/). The headphones in question would be the focal utopia, Sennheiser hd800s, Sony Z1R and Meze Empyrean, all balanced. Thanks for your advice.
Absolutely loving my Pro iDSD with the Sennheiser HD 820. Staging and detail to the max while being a fatigue free sound for extended listening!
Could someone post a concrete step-by -step set of instructions as to how to link up the iFi Pro iDSD to the MUZO Player on an iPhone. I don’t seem to be able to figure it out. Thanks for your help in advance.
We're working on it ATM!
iFi I am coming back into the fold. Unfortunately my low serial number 'octa adopter' DSD Micro has given up its ghost (battery), but it is time to get off this journey through the various ESS based DAC, finally finding some satisfaction in one of those pro German DACs built around the latest AK chipsets, but nothing, nothing is voiced quite like an iFi product.
They just sound right, and I have missed it.
Chipsets can mean very little, but I am convinced you are correct, despite MAYBE not always living up to the expectations of the 'show me the measurement's crowd...... well, measurements she-measurements and congrats on going the road less traveled and sticking with the BB thermometer code DACs that could convert true multi-bit PCM and 1 bit Delta Sigma at the same time, an ingenious solution to the zero crossing resolution weakness with PCM and at the same time overcoming the absolute resolution issues inherent in a 1 bit format.
BB was onto to something with that segment DAC that you guys have taken to heights they probably never dreamed of. I am sure any Burr Brown engineer back in the 90's would have called anyone a crack head that said their DSD converter back when they came out with the DSD1700 ( basic concept still used specifically for native DSD in the DSD1793 and others) it would eventually do 1 bit at 1024x!!!!
But all that matters is how does it sound, and how much enjoyment does it give ME . And you guys just get the SOUND RIGHT. I lurk through thousands of pages on here and other sites, and it gets frustrating we seem to be forgetting we are here for products we enjoy, sound good to US, and make us look forward to coming home from work, and maybe leading,, ahem,, to a divorce or two when one can't really decide what their first love truly is
Okay, I am done, and I know no one really cares. The PM's that come on occasion that with very little paraphrasing "You are full of $hit" don't bother me anymore. You can't take my joy away anymore iFi sounds great, they know what they are doing, just jump on the train and enjoy the ride!!
We do care, seriously. We always aim for lethal dose of musical content pouring out of our devices and are thrilled once it's acknowledged. You did just that so thank you!
Hi, Great that you have done this successfully. I am going to give this a shot. Will appreciate if you can help with a few questions:
1. So the wire attached to the back plate cannot be removed? Is this wire attached to the dac itself and can it be easily remove from the dac. Not sure what you mean by "angle it through the unit's cover to completely remove the cover". Do you mean the top cover?
2. To remove the nut and grommet (after holding the post with pliers), do you need any equipment or can you just use your fingers?
3. Can the tubes be removed by simply pulling it out (that's how it's done with my tube amp)? Or do you need to do any twisting? If twisting is required, is it clockwise or counter clockwise?
In a nutshell, Pro iDSD's front is fixed to the base plate with the main PCB and everything else on it. All this slides into internal rails of a sleeve alike main enclosure; its top, bottom and both sides are one. The machine's rear is detachable too.
No special gear is needed.
A simple pull will do, there's no need to twist anything. Of course the whole procedure requires mild amount of pressure and in general careful approach, but that's nothing new as far as tubes go.
I failed miserably to do this. Trying to unscrew the nut at the bottom of the wifi post using spanner anti clockwise. The nut seems to be turning but feels staying in same position. Can you help. Also, do I have to remove all the screws from the rear panel or just the 4 on the sides? Rhanks.
It'd be easier if you could show us on pictures at what stage you're in right now (via PM please). Thanks!
So here is my take on the Pro iDSD:
Thanks, great work!
Just wanted to let you all know that I purchased the Sbooster 15-16 volt external power supply for the iFi Pro iDSD. When it worked, it sounded great. But it’s performance was so unpredictable and it often would not work, or worked problematically. So I am sadly returning it for a refund. I’m no technical wizard, but my guess is that it’s rated performance (15-16 volts and 2.5 amps) is simply a mismatch for what the iFi Pro iDSD needs. I thought I should write and save you all the trouble of experimenting with that particular power supply.