if I need to spray paint a black Hammond steel chassis, do I need to...
Jun 23, 2003 at 4:15 PM Thread Starter Post #1 of 11

jarthel

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1. remove old paint. coat with new paint.

2. retain old paint and coat with new paint.

I'm just concern that with option 1, I may not get the same finish. I tried it before with my gilmore amp (inside of the chassis only) and the surface is very rough.

Any paint I should use?

If it matters, the chassis is for a tube headamp.

Thanks

jayel
 
Jun 23, 2003 at 4:54 PM Post #2 of 11
I am taking an uneducated guess here. But perhaps you should start with a white primer coat to completely cover the black finish. Then paint over the primer.
 
Jun 23, 2003 at 5:48 PM Post #3 of 11
If you want a really nice finish make sure that there are no chips or bumps before you do any painting. No matter how many coats you add you will still see flaws underneath. Also several thin coats are better than one heavy one.
 
Jun 23, 2003 at 6:19 PM Post #4 of 11
i would sligly scrap the surface (not the same as removing old paint) with a very thin grain sandpaper, then apply a couple of thin layers of primer and then apply the color paint you like in many thin coats without totally let them dry before you paint the next one...then depending the paint you used you can apply clear coat...let it dry for a good couple of days before you touch it....it should look great...

just remember to keep the distance from the "target" when painting, most ot the mistakes i used to make was trying to cover everything with one coat, and aplying the paint too close, one more thing.. when you let the paint dry make sure is in a dust free area......

if you have the chance..do some practicing

good luck

m.
 
Jun 24, 2003 at 2:00 AM Post #5 of 11
When I do DIY paint work I always use polyurethane (2k) paint. This is the two part mix type with catalyst. You may need an airbrush for this but the paint work will be bullet-proof. This paint chemically cures. So it dries really hard.

The primer suggestion is good. Always experiment on a small section to see compatibility to original paint.
 
Jun 24, 2003 at 2:15 PM Post #6 of 11
I'd make sure if your painting on old paint that your make a suface that the new paint will adher to. I'd actualy say you should try and have it bead blasted to remove the old paint. Either that or try some of the paint removing products. They will bubble the paint and you can then just wipe it off. IF you do any method (even leaving the paint on) you should use TSP to clean the surface so you have better adhesion of your new Paint. Sanding is realy hard to do on metal and you'd need to get some ultra fine paper, then probably have to buff the surface, because paint on metal WILL show scratches no mater how minor or un noticable they are.
 
Jun 25, 2003 at 10:40 AM Post #9 of 11
If the chassis really is anodized then you are going to have
problems getting the paint to stick. Anodizing is a electrochemical
coating that goes many microns into the surface and is very
hard to remove. Find a sand blaster that you can use.
 
Jun 25, 2003 at 12:08 PM Post #10 of 11
All metals need a primer of some sort to help the paint bond with the metal. Steel is very forgiving as to which primer to use - practically anything sticks to it. If you have a BARE steel enclosure do the following:

1. Sand the surface smooth with no more than 400 grit wet-dry sandpaper.
2. Apply 2 or 3 LIGHT coats of primer and let it sit at least a day.
3. LIGHTLY wet-sand the primer with 400 grit wet-dry sandpaper - you just want to take the bumps off the surface - you know, dirt, bugs, etc.. that might have gotten in the wet prmier. To wet sand you'll need a small pail of water, a rubber or dense foam sanding block, and good wet-dry sandpaper. I like to let the sandpaper soak for 10 minutes or so before I start sanding with it. Keep the sandpaper and the workpiece wet because the water carries away the particles of primer. If your paper starts sticking to the workpiece you'll know that it's not wet enough. Wet-sanding produces a very smooth surface in a very short amount of time so be careful! Another thing to mention - don't go any smoother than 400 grit. Paint needs some 'tooth' to hold on to - if you 'buff' the metal, two thing will happen - paint won't stick to it well and it will eventually peel and you'll probably have a bunch of buffing compund all over the place and paint won't stick to that!
4. Degrease the entire enclosure with a degreaser (available at paint-supply stores) and don't touch it with bare hands again - use gloves.
5. Have a CLEAN, well-ventilated and well-lit spray area prepared. It can be outdoors. I spray water on the ground to keep the dust down.
6. Apply several LIGHT coats of paint giving adequate time to "tack-up" between coats. The order that you spray is important - leave the most exposed sides for last. In most cases this is the front face and top of the enclosure. If you want to paint the entire surface of the enclosure, inside and out, you can hang it from a bent clothes hanger - much easier to paint a hanging object than one lying on a table. Spray technique is something that comes with experience, just remember to NOT GET TOO CLOSE and use even motions.
7. Let it dry for at least an hour before touching it and at least a day before bolting parts to it.

If there is an existing painted finish on the steel and it is sticking to the steel really well (i.e. a 'factory' paint job) the last thing you want to do is sand it all off. Use it as a primer! Wet sand it with 400 grit till the gloss is gone and go to step 4.

Aluminum? If it is anodized you'll have to wet sand as much off as you can. Start with 220 grit then finish up with 400. Next you'll need an etching primer. Etching primers actually dig into the surface of the aluminum to promote adhesion. Raw aluminum - just follow the steps above substituting "etching primer" for "primer".

ok,
erix
 
Jun 25, 2003 at 12:46 PM Post #11 of 11
Quote:

Originally posted by erix
I spray water on the ground to keep the dust down.


very good suggestion. thank erix.
smily_headphones1.gif
 

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