Ideas to "Lift" my Audioengine A5's?
May 20, 2010 at 3:51 PM Thread Starter Post #1 of 27

LostChild1

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Hi everyone,
 
I recently acquired a set of Audioengine A5's, and I absolutely love them, not a single fault that I can find with them (And am experiencing none of the Hiss / Hum / Popping issues that some others seem to be)
 
Anyway, my question is, right now they're sitting on my desk blaring music as what is basically my chest. I have them angled in towards me a bit too. I was looking for recommendations as to what I can use, or buy, the would do a good job of lifting the speakers up about a foot so that they are on par with my ears. Also, if I do this, should I keep the speakers slightly angled in towards my head, or should I just point them straight out?
 
Any recommendations are appreciated! Thanks! :)
 
May 20, 2010 at 5:21 PM Post #2 of 27
Painted 8x8x8 cinderblocks work very well... the concrete also isolates the speaker very nicely. I just painted mine black and threw some felt feet underneath to prevent any scapes on my desk. I also have a set of auralex mopads between the cinder block and speaker for further isolation.
 
May 20, 2010 at 10:44 PM Post #4 of 27
I think it depends on how much you are looking to isolate the speaker from the desk and whatnot. Sooner or later I am going to get real stands, but for now i just use plastic crates. They cost $2 for the pair. 
 

 
May 20, 2010 at 10:46 PM Post #5 of 27
I use a couple of hardback books to elevate my speakers, though I'm not sure if this would work with the A5s, and I imagine the isolation is very poor, though I have no real frame of reference. Sounds pretty awesome to me, though, way better than when it was just sitting on my desk. 
 
May 20, 2010 at 10:47 PM Post #6 of 27
http://www.audioengineusa.com/ads1_home.php
 
My A2's sounded like crap until I got these, mainly because they too were firing way below my ears at first. Remember though, you also have to factor in the density, volume, and material of the stands.
 
May 20, 2010 at 11:15 PM Post #7 of 27
I've been meaning to elevate my A5s for sometime now, but I never get around to it as I rarely use them these days.
 
Mule, those would probably be great for a low desk, but firing upward like that at a standard computer desk (unless you're really, really tall) seems like it would still create issues.
 
May 21, 2010 at 1:35 AM Post #8 of 27
Raising and isolating the A5's was definitely one of the bigger upgrades for my music system. The center channel and mids and highs are so much clearer...
 

 
 
May 21, 2010 at 2:42 PM Post #11 of 27
try searching the trash.
 
i'm sure you can find enough 'old desks' or otherwise wood/particle board to build yourself some stands.
i'd wash the board with some all purpose cleaner and then seal off any previous 'usage' with some paint.
of course you need access to something that is going to cut the wood straight.. but a box of nails or screws to hold it together only costs about $5
 
and just remember.. if the particle board is thin, you can stack a few pieces together to make one solid 'thicker' piece that will last longer and hold up to the screws being screwed in.
 
this way you can make some H shape or A shape or i shape.. paint it and be done for $10 while these other people spent as much as $150
 
and if you want to get really fancy, you can put some old fabric between the speaker and the stand to help stop any vibrations from making their way to the stands and then to the desk.
one old shirt cut into squares should be plenty.
 
May 21, 2010 at 3:32 PM Post #12 of 27
The Auralex MoPads combined with those cinder blocks (as pictured further up in this thread) are a pretty decent and cheap solution.I have some MoPads on my KRKs and it did make a difference in the sound as opposed to having them on my desk.
 
May 24, 2010 at 2:03 AM Post #14 of 27


Quote:
Why raise them when you can just aim them upward?
 
Audioengine speaker stands



why..?
because if you raise them you can continue to send soundwave reflections towards a wall behind you.
as well as relfecting soundwaves off the side walls.
a lot of neat tricks can be done when the soundwaves have the abilitiy to bounce back directly at the speakers.
you should read up on noise cancellation and reverb timings of the room and when / where / why sound dampening is a good/bad thing.
the reading should stem into perspectives such as 'feedback destroyers' and room optimization DSP's (and what those digital signal processors are actually doing.. by all means literally)
 
speaking ideally.. you would want a soundwave that comes out of the speaker and bounces into absolutely nothing, but some speakers use common room measurements to 'optimize' the final output.
you can use those walls as an advantage whereby throwing out a soundwave and then throw out numerous 'out of phase' soundwaves to cancel out what was originally sent out.
 
but to understand..
the soundwaves disappear on their own like evaporating water.. or an echo that slowly loses momentum with each bounce off the wall.
or even a billiard cue ball that loses speed after each time it bounces off a rail.. going back and forth until it finally comes to a halt.
the first problem that comes about is knowing that different size rooms have different back and forth characteristics.
and what this means is, different frequencies will die on their own quickly.. while other frequencies refuse to die because they are bouncing between the walls at 'optimum' intervals.
kinda like those office beads that have six or eight silver/chrome balls and you grab one ball to swing out sideways.. then that ball falls down and strikes the remaining balls that are lined up in a row... thus making the ball at the other end swing out.
and this 'knick-knack' continues on for some time because of newtons law 'objects in motion will remain in motion and objects that abruptly stop will inflict the same inertia onto whatever caused the sudden stop.' (the equal and opposite motion rule)
 
anyways..
some notes or 'tones' or 'frequencies' (whichever you wanna call them) will fade away and die faster than others.. this all depends on the length and width of the room to determine which notes/tones linger.
now, if you send out three soundwaves at once.. and two of them die quickly on their own.. when you send an 'out of phase' soundwave to cancel out what was just sent (to clear up any echo in the room)
the problem is..
two of them are already dead.. so yes, one soundwave of the three will meet its opposite phased version and will suddenly cease to exist.
but the other two soundwaves that are 'out of phase' have no soundwave to come in contact with.. and that means you are listening to the soundwave twice... which is fatiguing to the ears and also robs details and clarity within the air.
 
this stuff happens in nanoseconds i suppose.
so the result would be tones or notes that are unusually long compared to the actual audio that is on the CD.
the long sounds are really robbing the vivid detail.. its like trying to hear the music with the television still on and sending audio out into the airspace.
listening to two things at once is horrendous.
 
so..
aiming the speakers up towards your ears will bounce the soundwave off of the ceiling and back wall.. basically the seam where the ceiling meets the back wall.
and that can become much more trickier to compensate for, when comparing a simple cube or rectangle.
besides, there are optimization 'setups' and 'tweaks' for time alignment that require the speaker be aimed directly at the wall and not tipped up towards the ceiling.
THX setup console is one example of time alignment software that helps the vivid details make it to your ear drums rather than getting utterly lost in the air.
 
an ideal setup would be a powerhouse of equipment and rather than using an equalizer, you use very fancy time alignment to compensate for the length and width of the room you are in.
if you use time alignment because one speaker is further away from your ear than the other.. then you know you dont have to have the power level different for each speaker because the speaker close to your ear will 'wait' to output the soundwave so that the soundwave from the left side hits your ears at the exact same time as the right side.
 
the same time + the same amount of speaker cone movement = no perceivable difference
it is possible to lose amplitude (which comes from the amount of speaker cone movement) because of air pressure (or a lack of)
and wind can also goof around with the soundwaves.
 
there are lots and lots of equipment (mostly for car audio) that have time alignment features built in.. basically because the driver door speaker is closer than the passenger door speaker.
you can really appreciate the difference that can be made using time alignment.
but be warned though, because when you use time alignment.. the details are only as loud as the speaker furthest away.
so you will want to turn the balance to the right side a little bit and make sure not to push the speaker into distortion.
the new sound will also have 'feel' or vivid details all up in your face and ears thanks to the balance adjustment which again is needed because the details are only as loud as your furthest speaker.
and this can be a considerable distance for some setups.. i have seen speakers placed about 20ft apart from eachother before.
trying to hear the details in the audio from a speaker that is 18ft away and not turned up very loud is not easy and much is left to be desired (which would result in the volume knob being used)
 
there are two things to observe and take note here.
1. you can aim speakers towards your ears and listen to the soundwaves that come directly from the speaker cone and totally ignore those soundwaves as they continue to move passed your ears. (which would be like having the speakers outside with no walls whatsoever)
2. you fill up a space or 'room' with sound, much like filling up a balloon with air.
and when you fill up the balloon, you dont have to.. but you should make sure that there are no uneven air pressures inside so the balloon doesnt get big in one spot and pop prematurely.
 
having audio panels can further help with eliminating soundwaves that are stubborn and refuse to die out quickly.
and thus, the best place for your sound panels would be on the wall behind your speakers so as to catch the soundwave as it bounces off the wall behind you on the couch.
the sound paneling will prevent the waves from bouncing off a wall a second time which really helps keep the air clean.
 
i am only trying to suggest that the person try to fill the room with sound rather than point the speakers up towards the ears because you might make the situation worse.. or no better at all.
but you have to have audiophile hearing to be able to appreciate the vivid details because sometimes trying to find those details is almost worse than trying to hear a pin drop in total silence.
(and a pin drop in total silence from a distance of four or five feet away from you is more appropriate)
 

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