[HeadphoneAddict]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jetlaged /img/forum/go_quote.gif Oh dear... On Topic I really like the sound from my D10 with OPA2350 and 8616 buffers, I can crank the volume up without the sound becoming brittle, it's the best combination yet for my UE10pro's which have very low impedance, (13ohms), I don't think that the standard amps are well suited to low impedance IEM's.

Agreed, I mentioned previously that if I was only using my ES3X that the 2350/8616 would be a great choice for no hiss and positive synergy. It just doesn't sound as good with my HD600 as the AD743/8616, and is too bassy for the Senn IE8.

 

[rhw]

Quote:

Originally Posted by HeadphoneAddict /img/forum/go_quote.gif I am finding my D10 with AD743/AD8616 buffers is very similar to my Pico DAC-only with RSA P-51 Mustang amp. In short - very good!

Thanks for the reply. Much appreciated.

 

[jamato8]

Yes, I have been using the AD743 and the Ad8616 and the sound is clean, tight, open and dynamic. Great stuff. It just keeps getting better. Competition driven.

 

[jetlaged]

Quote:

Originally Posted by HeadphoneAddict /img/forum/go_quote.gif It just doesn't sound as good with my HD600 as the AD743/8616, and is too bassy for the Senn IE8.

what is the impedance of the Senn IE8's ?, I think that with higher impedances then brighter amp combinations are required,

Edit; (hmm googling shows that the speaker concept of the UE10's and IE8's is totally different) and impedances are 13 ohms and 16ohms respectively.

 

[HiFlight]

Impedance ratings are very deceptive! The rated impedance of a speaker or phones is an average. The actual instantaneous impedance can and does change with frequency, hence one can't directly compare the SQs of two devices with the same or similar "impedance" ratings and expect them to have similar highs, lows, soundstages, etc., as their impedance differences can occur at different points in the audio spectrum.

The sound signature of a speaker or headphone is the net result of all of these frequency-related impedance changes and where they fall in the audio spectrum.

 

[jamato8]

Yeah, what he said.

 

[Jolly Bodger]

I've just got my D10 and I'm very impressed. This is my 1st headphone dac/amp and I'm a bit thick when it comes to electronics. It arrived with no manual/instructions, so I contacted ibasso and they e-mailed me the manual. It only seems to cover the bare minimum. There is no info on the chips supplied which I assume are opamps and buffers - I haven't a clue how to identify them as there doesn't appear to be any numbers on them (told you I was thick). What are the benefits of changing them and is the difference that big? I am not clear if I can charge the amp at the same time as playing music through it via my computer/USB - I've resisted trying it in case I do damage.


I apologise if this has been covered in earlier posts but I got to page 30 and got sick of reading about irivers!

JB

 

[qusp]

sure you can play it while you are charging it, no problem. and yes the opamps do make a significant difference; I thought you said youd been reading the thread?? yeah theres a lot about irivers, because really this dac/amp was pretty much made for them. its sound is far superior when being driven optically and there is no other dap that has optical. you can get some PCDPs that do and obviously some laptops do, but as far as a HD based player; thats it.

thing is, if you cant see theres any numbers or markings on the opamps; I dont know if you should be changing them

 

[clasam]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jolly Bodger /img/forum/go_quote.gif I've just got my D10 and I'm very impressed. This is my 1st headphone dac/amp and I'm a bit thick when it comes to electronics. It arrived with no manual/instructions, so I contacted ibasso and they e-mailed me the manual. It only seems to cover the bare minimum. There is no info on the chips supplied which I assume are opamps and buffers - I haven't a clue how to identify them as there doesn't appear to be any numbers on them (told you I was thick). What are the benefits of changing them and is the difference that big? I am not clear if I can charge the amp at the same time as playing music through it via my computer/USB - I've resisted trying it in case I do damage. I apologise if this has been covered in earlier posts but I got to page 30 and got sick of reading about irivers! JB

Get yourself a good magnifying glass & light. The writing is usually visible if you change the angle at which you are looking at the opamp. While you're at it, get some needle nosed pliers as well.

Before you touch any opamps or the board, MAKE SURE you ground yourself on something metal or wear an anti-static wrist band.

If you do decide to roll opamps, after you've taken off the D10's faceplate, pull the board out by grabbing the volume knob "thingee" (yes, that's the technical term).

With the volume knob pointing RIGHT, you'll see a pyramid of opamps. The top is the L/R and the bottom two are the buffers.

Again, with the volume knob pointing to the right, look how the opamps are situated. At the bottom right corner of each opamp, you'll notice a SQUARE, instead of a circle. Always make sure the square is in the bottom right corner.

Get your pliers and gently pull an opamp up. I tend to "jiggle" (rock it back and forth) the opamp as I pull up. I think it's easiest to take out the L/R opamp first, then the right buffer, followed by the left buffer.

Once you've chosen which opamps you want to try next (again, ground yourself before touching any chips), put the opamps in the socket with the SQUARE in the bottom right corner. Gently push down on the edges of the adapter with your fingernails. You'll also want to match the two buffers (ie: two AD8656, not one AD8532 and AD8656, etc).

I put the opamps back in, in the opposite order I've taken them out. L buffer, R buffer, L/R channel. I find it's easier to do it that way.

Put everything back in place and you're good to go.

That's about it, I think.

 

[jetlaged]

Quote:

Originally Posted by clasam /img/forum/go_quote.gif Again, with the volume knob pointing to the right, look how the opamps are situated. At the bottom right corner of each opamp, you'll notice a SQUARE, instead of a circle. Always make sure the square is in the bottom right corner.

For correct orientation of the IC amp and the DIP socket I line up the little "half circle" that's printed on the side of each IC amp board, and on the recipient DIP socket there's a little "half circle" that is missing from one side of the DIP socket.

 

[nc8000]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jolly Bodger /img/forum/go_quote.gif I've just got my D10 and I'm very impressed. This is my 1st headphone dac/amp and I'm a bit thick when it comes to electronics. It arrived with no manual/instructions, so I contacted ibasso and they e-mailed me the manual. It only seems to cover the bare minimum. There is no info on the chips supplied which I assume are opamps and buffers - I haven't a clue how to identify them as there doesn't appear to be any numbers on them (told you I was thick). What are the benefits of changing them and is the difference that big? I am not clear if I can charge the amp at the same time as playing music through it via my computer/USB - I've resisted trying it in case I do damage. I apologise if this has been covered in earlier posts but I got to page 30 and got sick of reading about irivers! JB

I would also say that you shouldn't really start playing with other opamps until you have several hundred hours of burn-in and listening time on the rather good stock configuration so you have a good feel for the base sound.

 

[jetlaged]

Quote:

Originally Posted by clasam /img/forum/go_quote.gif If you do decide to roll opamps, after you've taken off the D10's faceplate, pull the board out by grabbing the volume knob "thingee" (yes, that's the technical term).

After removing the four faceplate securing screws, (on the volume knob side), I don't pull on the volume knob to slide the main board out, (my volume knob came right off), instead I push on the coax receptacle at the other end with my little pinky finger, this slides the main board out far enough that I can then grip the SIDES of the main board between thumb and forefinger to gently pull the main board further out, no stress on the volume knob and it wont pull off, it's only fixed with a dab of glue, it's no big deal to re-glue it if it does come off it's mount shaft.

When sliding the main board back into it's receptacle ensure that the plugs and respective cutaways at the other end are correctly lined up so that the main board doesn't protrude a tiny bit which will prevent the volume side faceplate from seating correctly.

 

[nc8000]

I started by pulling the volume knob of and then removed the front plate and finally grabbed the actual circuit board and pulled as I don't like pulling/pushing on any of the connectors for fear of breaking a solder joint. Getteing the board back in was a bit of a problem as the usb and optical connectors don't exactly match the cutouts in the back plate and the bolts holding the back plate are either stripped or not the same as the ones on the front as the included tool just rotates in them. I succeded by inserting a small wodden rod in the optical port and just slightly lifted it while pushing on the front of the board and all went in fine.

 

[jetlaged]

Quote:

Originally Posted by nc8000 /img/forum/go_quote.gif I succeded by inserting a small wodden rod in the optical port and just slightly lifted it while pushing on the front of the board and all went in fine.

No need to stick a object into the connector itself.

As you slide the board back the coax connector will protrude out the back plate, then by gently moving it around whilst simultaneously pushing the board back in will ensure that it lines up properly at the back and will properly seat the board so that the front face plate will fit correctly. It's unnecessary to remove the back plates screws or fiddle with the back plate.

 

[qusp]

^^ LOL giving lessons again; . it is actually preferable to remove the backplate as well as then you arent doing the jiggling you seem to think is the best way to do it. nc8000 is correct in that repeatedly jiggling and wiggling the connectors may eventually mean there is a problem. one in particular is the LED; the LED is only really held in place by the hole in the backplate; other than that its just an LED suspended by its leads (which are thin wires); if you just push it back into place it can bend and you have to remove the board and bend it back into place. the more times you do this, the more likely it is to damage something. it is much easier on the parts if you can remove both panels.

nc8000: I would let them know about this problem you have with the mounting nuts on the back being a different gauge to the front and the fact that your torx wrench doesnt fit them. alternatively you could buy a set of torx wrenches off ebay with various sizes. you can pick them up really cheap with lots of different sizes; the one you need is almost definitely going to be covered. I picked up a set for ipod and iriver maintenance for around $10 and you can get them for less. (mine included 5 different sizes and they are of good quality; I got them from an aussie seller; you can pick up sets of 50+ tools from china for not too much more. but they are maybe not as high quality as the smaller sets