iBasso D10. .UPDATES 1st page, with Current Opamp Choices by HiFlight . . . images page 1, 12, 13, 14, 15, 21, 71
May 9, 2009 at 5:56 PM Post #2,071 of 4,153

jetlaged

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Quote:

Originally Posted by qusp /img/forum/go_quote.gif
^^ LOL giving lessons again; . it is actually preferable to remove the backplate as well as then you arent doing the jiggling you seem to think is the best way to do it. nc8000 is correct in that repeatedly jiggling and wiggling the connectors may eventually mean there is a problem. one in particular is the LED;


There is certainly more than one way of skinning the cat, I disagree with removing the back plate, I haven't to date, and I manage to lign up the rear LED's perfectly with minimal, really a tiny amount of jiggling, but to each his own "says he as he kisses the cow"
biggrin.gif


EDIT, well instead of removing the back panel, why not just loosen the screws off a touch, this would achieve the same purpose without removing the back panel.
 
May 9, 2009 at 6:13 PM Post #2,072 of 4,153

clasam

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Quote:

Originally Posted by jetlaged /img/forum/go_quote.gif
After removing the four faceplate securing screws, (on the volume knob side), I don't pull on the volume knob to slide the main board out, (my volume knob came right off), instead I push on the coax receptacle at the other end with my little pinky finger, this slides the main board out far enough that I can then grip the SIDES of the main board between thumb and forefinger to gently pull the main board further out, no stress on the volume knob and it wont pull off, it's only fixed with a dab of glue, it's no big deal to re-glue it if it does come off it's mount shaft.



Fair enough, the reason why I pull on the volume knob is because when I first did it, the volume knob popped off fairly easily...it wasn't glued in placed, so I got used to doing that. When my D10 got back from being repaired, it was glued on.
 
May 9, 2009 at 6:17 PM Post #2,073 of 4,153

jamato8

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I wouldn't pull on the volume control very much. The pot isn't really designed for the strain. I just gently push on the coax connector on the back and wiggle the pcb out while gripping the front. Ahhh the fun. . . .
 
May 9, 2009 at 8:34 PM Post #2,074 of 4,153

HiFlight

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After removing the front screws, I don't bother with the volume knob, I just insert a small phillips screwdriver in the optical out jack and tap with a small mallet. The board comes right out.
 
May 9, 2009 at 8:37 PM Post #2,075 of 4,153

HiFlight

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My optical out worked fine when I got my D10, but it doesn't work now, guess I'll have to send it back to iBasso.
 
May 9, 2009 at 8:44 PM Post #2,076 of 4,153

jamato8

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Quote:

Originally Posted by HiFlight /img/forum/go_quote.gif
After removing the front screws, I don't bother with the volume knob, I just insert a small phillips screwdriver in the optical out jack and tap with a small mallet. The board comes right out.


Ron, I guess you are kidding? As another method, you could just use a hammer drill.
 
May 9, 2009 at 8:56 PM Post #2,077 of 4,153

HiFlight

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****Winks!*****
 
May 9, 2009 at 9:28 PM Post #2,078 of 4,153

jamato8

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You got me good on that one Ron.
 
May 10, 2009 at 1:46 AM Post #2,079 of 4,153

qusp

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Quote:

Originally Posted by HiFlight /img/forum/go_quote.gif
After removing the front screws, I don't bother with the volume knob, I just insert a small phillips screwdriver in the optical out jack and tap with a small mallet. The board comes right out.


what ; like one of those ones the chiropractor uses?? I think i've got one of those around somewhere, i'll have to give that a try.. thanks Ron
tongue_smile.gif
 
May 11, 2009 at 9:58 AM Post #2,080 of 4,153

jetlaged

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How to dissasemble and reasemble the D10 without trauma.

Front of the Unit is the side which has the volume control knob.

Caution:
1). Ensure that you have grounded your fingers before touching any board mounted object. Do not touch board pins or circuitry with fingers or with metallic objects to prohibit electrical damage due to static electricity.
2). Do not over torque the faceplate retaining screws as the housing threads are easily stripped.

Dissasembly;
After removing the front four faceplate securing screws, (on the volume knob side) push on the coax receptacle at the rear end with finger, this slides the main board out far enough until it can be gripped by the SIDES between thumb and forefinger to gently pull the main board further out, about 3~4 cm, enough to acccess the three IC's only.
Don't pull on the volume knob to remove the board, this will stress the volume potentiometer (pot), and the volume knob might pull off it's mount shaft, it's only fixed with a dab of glue.

Removal and Orientation of opamp (1 of), and Buffers (2 of) in DIP soctkets;
Use long nose pliers only on the sides of the opamp and buffer IC boards to wiggle and pull the opamps and buffers loose, lift the IC's vertically to remove from DIP boards, or use a non metallic object to gently pry and symmetrically lift the IC's clear of their respective DIP sockets.
For correct orientation of the IC amp and the DIP socket line up the little "half circle" that's printed on the side of each IC amp board, and on the recipient DIP socket there's a little "half circle" that is missing from one side of the DIP socket.

Reassembly;
When sliding the main board back into its receptacle ensure that the plugs and respective cutaways on the rear-end are correctly lined up so that the LED's and USB plug are correctly seated and that the main board doesn't protrude a tiny bit at the front which will prevent the front faceplate from seating correctly.

If you're struggling to realign the rear faceplate cut-outs with board components loosen the rear faceplate retaining screws just enough so that the rear faceplate is loose, seat the board and rear faceplate correctly and re-tighten the rear faceplate screws. Re-align the front faceplate, refit the screws.


and I now await the howls of derision for this post as it's of no use at "The End"
 
May 11, 2009 at 1:40 PM Post #2,081 of 4,153

HiFlight

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Nice tutorial!
 
May 11, 2009 at 3:38 PM Post #2,082 of 4,153

qusp

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nah; as much as many on this thread are across this stuff, cool that you put in the time for the noobs
 
May 11, 2009 at 6:14 PM Post #2,083 of 4,153

clasam

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Quote:

Originally Posted by jetlaged /img/forum/go_quote.gif
How to dissasemble and reasemble the D10 without trauma.
-snip-



You should send this to iBasso w/some pics, so they can start including it into the D10's User's Manual.
 
May 11, 2009 at 9:10 PM Post #2,084 of 4,153

RASeymour

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Manual? You mean that sheet of paper?
 
May 11, 2009 at 9:48 PM Post #2,085 of 4,153

jamato8

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Quote:

Originally Posted by RASeymour /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Manual? You mean that sheet of paper?


Hey, what do you want?? LOL, yeah that one. It is nicely printed. :^)

I agree an inclusion of rolling and how to do it should be requisite.

On another note, I am listening with the AD743 and AD8616's on the output and the sound is incredible. A black, black background, open and dynamic. Getting fed by WAV or lossless from my iRiver H140 with the 120gb drive is a true treat. I have even been comparing to my Woo 6 (highly modified) and I am not left wanting for sound quality.

I didn't know it but do now, the traces on the D10 are gold plated. My preamp from Quicksilver, many years ago, the Full Function Pre, had gold plated traces.
 

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