[legopart]

I will answer to you and maybe it will helps to the post writer.
From this picture I can see that you are unprofessional soldering!
1st- Your solder may cheap one, chines and not quality one.
2nd- as shown in the picture: the soldering looks like COLD SOLDERING, in other words is a mistake!
Cold solder have very low conductivity, so... until you will clean it i think that the Resistor-metter cant detect through it.
3rd- you are put to much solder when there is no wires on it at all
4th- I cant see any metal conduct parts of the driver
your solder looks like a big mess that covered the central coil ends, that connected to the main driver coil

5th- the green coating that isulate and make the soldering right is missing on the plate. your soldering looks really bad!

I'm sorry but you cant fix that!, if you create such a mess, I don't think that you can fix this.

If you want to see how to fix, see this one

Hi,
I'm the happy owner of an Alessandro MS1(000), sounded great, even if having tremendous odds and no more real amp to drive it sadly, and it did sing until the cable commited suicide.
And here I am, bought the cheapest cable on zBay as finding suitable wire and Y splitter is a challenge. Grado's blue wires for ground, then white and red. Solder the chinise thing. Copper is copper right?
And now I can't bear the sound. Muddy, voices are like cheap cardboard speakers.
So I'm asking for first hand experiences,
Can one fry the drivers when soldering?
Can the cable impact the sound that much? I admint my rusty blackened OEM wires are 0.2ohm when that shiny chinese cable is 0.7, maybe even add capacitance...
Crap! I want my Grado back!

Matthieu

First if you solder it right and strip it coating right
try to use another cable than the Y splited
like this two but try to fing more quality one
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Repair-Aud...255604?hash=item3d582b9274:g:vQAAAOSwPOhadCwv
https://www.ebay.com/itm/II-Black-R...4?hash=item2cad66d11a:g:zzoAAOSw9eVXUShK#rwid

 

[michaelwheeldon]

Think you may have melted the voice coil, a good grado driver will measure approx 32 ohm across the solder pads, sorry to bring you bad news.

 

[Malefoda]

Do you mind if I use this thread?

Nope you're welcome as we are in the same boat, almost as in my case they do measure 32 ohms, in fact they are 32 and 31, where they matched when built or that's just bad luck?
I'll look at those better wires, the one I had hoped to wire in are way too stiff.
Will report but I have seen the price right now, maybe this will close that option for me right now.

 

[kraaft]

Malefoda:
Thanks. My working one also measures 32 ohms.

legopart:
Your assessment is correct, I am not a professional at soldering. In fact, I am a newbie and hence I suck at it. Thanks for the encouragement.

Although, to be fair, I didn't add solder, those big blobs were actually there from the factory. I'll show you the left one as reference. The red one is pure factory. (The blue one I messed with slightly before I realized the issue was in the cable):

 

[legopart]

@kraaft What the age of this headphones?

 

[michaelwheeldon]

Does the ms1 not have grado drivers because those two in the picture don't look like any grado driver I've ever seen

 

[kraaft]

@kraaft What the age of this headphones?

It's a good question. I think somewhere 10-15 years old.

michaelwheeldon:
Thank you!

it's a very difficult process and unlikely to result in success.

You may want to try finding a damaged pair of SR80s on the forums for donor parts. Given you're in Sweden the shipping back and forth to Grado wouldn't make sense I don't think.

Thank you. Agreed about the shipping, although I do appreciate the fact that Grado has such good customer service!

 

[kraaft]

Did anyone test Monacor SP-39? I can find one mention of them on this forum but I can't find anything about how it worked out.

I can order a pair locally for $19 incl postage.

There are also a selection of various prices on Ebay and Aliexpress.. but I have no idea which ones to try.

 

[HiGHFLYiN9]

You'd likely have to create a frame or rig that driver, I doubt it's a perfect fit for Grados. Also you'd want to protect the front of the driver from damage with a screen, and would likely need to experiment with damping and tweaking to get decent sound in a Grado cup. So, if you have the time, it could be a decent choice, but I'd personally just purchase a driver that's already tweaked for Grado cups. Bottom line, if you're looking for good sound, get one of the drivers previously mentioned, if you would enjoy tinkering/experimenting (and probably not reaching the sound quality of the other drivers), the Monacor would be your choice.

 

[kraaft]

Thank you for that, even if it's not very good news. I hereby place my name on the adoption list for old left over drivers.

 

[kraaft]

Would the Senn-drivers from the SennGrado mod fit directly into my Grado or would they also require frame/rig/screen/etc?

 

[michaelwheeldon]

I fitted a pair of px 100ii into wood cups which needed a mounting ring glued to underside of the driver.
This allows for the driver to be push fit into the cup.
I made a simple one from a heavy cardboard tube, the type you get to mail posters and art through post cut to correct thickness , about 10mm.
This I also hot glued in similar to how grado mount their drivers, but in your case mounting to the original plastic cup you would have to very carefully remove the driver from plastic ring housing which is very difficult without damaging the plastic ring.
Then glue the PX 100ii driver to the plastic ring similar to the above description and then push back into the cup.
Not sure how they would sound in plastic cups though.

 

[kraaft]

Thank you, michaelwheeldon!

Given my current lack of experience in Grado plastic ring removal it sounds like it is likely to fail, since even you consider it very difficult.

Hot air would help?

 

[legopart]

Thank you, michaelwheeldon!

Given my current lack of experience in Grado plastic ring removal it sounds like it is likely to fail, since even you consider it very difficult.

Hot air would help?

I not recommend to do so.
hot air could destroy the driver.
I do not like glued parts, Its bad for moding.

I also destroyed my 40mm driver on ICON HP-280 headphones.
and now searching for some replacement (could someone suggest one?)


I found some chiniese drivers 40mm that I want to try one:
32ohm titanium
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/TON...233.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7b9a4c4d0ocy2B

32ohm carbon
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/40m...pm=a2g0s.13010208.99999999.259.26223c00URvlo9
this cheaper but looks worst https://www.aliexpress.com/item/40m...c09a-4621-be94-e7533d4b470e&priceBeautifyAB=0


120ohm
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2pc...pm=a2g0s.13010208.99999999.265.26223c00URvlo9

280ohm
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/-/32890058391.html?spm=a2g0s.13010208.99999999.296.26223c00URvlo9

 

[kraaft]

This particular driver is already broken by "unprofessional soldering" so that's OK.

If one wants to swap between different drivers, there should be better solutions.

Please report your experience with the chinese drivers!