So, the amp has an input sensitivity of 1v. The preamp says it outputs 1v with 200mV input, so that is what you want coming from the TT2, I believe. That would be if you are using the preamp to control the volume. Not sure what setting on TT2 that would be though.
If it was me then I would keep the TT2 in AMP mode and just adjust the TT2 volume until you have a reasonable volume adjustment range on your preamp volume.
On the other hand, had you thought of connecting the TT2 direct to the JC5 and missing out the JC2BP? Then you can control the volume from the TT2.
What? No. A DAC (Digital to Analogue Converter) would output an analogue signal that all Chord DACs can't accept. You may be thinking of bypassing CORE audio processing in the MAC which Audirvana+ can do.
I use Audirvana+ with my old 2011 17" MBP and it uses optical just fine. Any digital transmission will bypass the computers DAC and send a bitstream to the Chord DAC. The trick is to use software that doesn't alter the original signal.
Oh i think its has very clear and articulate voices. I get the impression that the supra (i have that is much cheaper) has more bass and is warmer then the mavros but mavros is more articulate with less bloom and veil. Supra is more forgiving and sound smoother with porer recordings lowerbitrate content. Mavros have more higher frequency information more texture. Anyway thats my impression.
Clipping isent it something you only get when playing to loud. Are you listening with HP or speakers? I dont hear any clipping on my mavros optical but i dont play so loud that it would cause the HP to clip.
After having this cable makes me wonder how lifatec would sound like. I still don’t think the cable can alter digital signals to result in certain sound signatures. I use headphone with relatively loud volume. When using hugo2 it clipping(bass heavy) during movies a lot, with tt2 it never do(with pvc optic ).
After having this cable makes me wonder how lifatec would sound like. I still don’t think the cable can alter digital signals to result in certain sound signatures. I use headphone with relatively loud volume. When using hugo2 it clipping(bass heavy) during movies a lot, with tt2 it never do(with pvc optic ).
Changing optic cable is never going to be night and day difference but a small tweak. But i heard the difference clearly when going back to supra optic some week ago. I could be happy with the peformence of warmer sounding supra also. And they have better fit then mavros which i have to press with force in.
I've used these for other purposes, they have a detailed instruction PDF on website. Includes gauges, lengths to cut, assembly order, etc. Just in case.
Changing optic cable is never going to be night and day difference but a small tweak. But i heard the difference clearly when going back to supra optic some week ago. I could be happy with the peformence of warmer sounding supra also. And they have better fit then mavros which i have to press with force in.
May be it would not sounded different after all , may be this is how dl(digital to light converter) sounds like. I heard it is inherently flawed when toshiba developed it.
If you are careful it is possible to use the Neutrik ones by drilling inline through the plastic bushing with the right size drill to make the bore wide enough for all the cables. Also you can carefully snip off bits of the chuck (at the left side of it on the diagram below) again to allow a bigger bore cable. All this needs to be done carefully if it is not to look like a dog's breakfast but I have done it successfully many times.
Better (but much more expensive) is to use the Furutech FP-602F XLR Connector because this already copes with larger cables and also because the parts that you solder onto are more robust and can take a relatively thick conductor.
Furutech connectors though have exceptional build but utterly expensive. I use furutech XLR to XLR pcocc alpha bulk cable interconnect between Tt2 and ahb2 of around 0.75m length with furutech mid price connectors and the pair costed me around $700 but it may beat even many totl readymade XLR interconnects.
If you are careful it is possible to use the Neutrik ones by drilling inline through the plastic bushing with the right size drill to make the bore wide enough for all the cables. Also you can carefully snip off bits of the chuck (at the left side of it on the diagram below) again to allow a bigger bore cable. All this needs to be done carefully if it is not to look like a dog's breakfast but I have done it successfully many times.
Better (but much more expensive) is to use the Furutech FP-602F XLR Connector because this already copes with larger cables and also because the parts that you solder onto are more robust and can take a relatively thick conductor.
I thought about drilling them. I think it would be easier to return and buy some that are right. They were not expensive at about £2.50, but I'd rather not mess them up.
I like the look of those Furutech, but was not planning on spending that much. Although I could be tempted.
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