Hugo TT 2 by Chord Electronics - The Official Thread
Feb 24, 2021 at 5:28 AM Post #12,766 of 18,895
Who knew it was so complicated to plug something in and use it.
 
Feb 24, 2021 at 7:10 AM Post #12,767 of 18,895
Today, my TT2 is back from service center. This is *SUPER* *ULTRA* *HYPER* fastest repairing result I ever experienced, regardless brand. It only took *SINGLE* day!!! Although problem was not that simple, also repair engineer couldn't pinpoint what makes this problem. BNC 1 endpoint on PCB has some IC. According to repair engineer, that endpoint on PCB resistance must be 75 ohm, but it was 8 ohm only, it was kind of short circuit on inside of IC because all soldering and PCB pattern has no problem at all. So he just remove problematic IC first, and change to new one, problem solved.

But still it is unclear what caused this problem.

Today I ask engineer, what is best way to threat TT2; he gave me some suggestion.
1. Don't connect any digital connector (USB/BNC) while TT2 is ON.
2. Best way to keep TT2's lifespan longer, don't disconnect power brick from the wall, just make TT2 "Standby" mode by power button either on TT2 or remote.
3. Don't use linear power supply which does not have voltage regulator. If DC voltage is fluctuated and if it goes up more than 2V, it means if it over 17V, it may harm your TT2. Some of linear power has this kind of problem even if regulate circuit is included. Best is just use SMPS which is included on package.

That's it. I also will not disconnect power brick from the wall from now on. (I don't move around with my TT2)
But, IMO, if some of you guys need to move around with your TT2, I would do like this:
Power off TT2 by press power button.
Disconnect DC jack from TT2.
Disconnect power brick from the wall.

When re-connect TT2:
Connect power brick to the wall.
Connect DC jack to TT2.
:beerchug:

** I made mistake read line. disconnect DC jack from TT2 first!

When reconnecting TT2, I went the other way around.

Where you said,
"Connect power brick to the wall.
Connect DC jack to TT2."

I did the opposite. My reasoning was to allow the charger to power on and feed the TT2. Rather than have power brick on, and plug it into TT2: hitting TT2 with full power from zero.

I honestly do not know if that is correct or incorrect, or if there is even any difference. I think of it that way in terms of plug enverything in before powering on, too.
 
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Feb 24, 2021 at 7:28 AM Post #12,768 of 18,895
The sequence as I see it from years of providing automation electronics:
Turning on
1- plug brick into tt2
2- connect any i/o cables
3- plug brick into wall
4- leave on if possible, if not use remote or button to put in standby

Turning off to transport
1- place in standby mode by button or remote
2- disconnect from wall
3- remove brick cable from tt2
 
Feb 24, 2021 at 7:31 AM Post #12,769 of 18,895
The sequence as I see it from years of providing automation electronics:
Turning on
1- plug brick into tt2
2- connect any i/o cables
3- plug brick into wall
4- leave on if possible, if not use remote or button to put in standby

Turning off to transport
1- place in standby mode by button or remote
2- disconnect from wall
3- remove brick cable from tt2

Cool. That's the same as me. Better put then I said it, I think.

It makes sense to me to do it that way because that's how hifi kit generally is used.
 
Feb 24, 2021 at 7:51 AM Post #12,770 of 18,895
Who knew it was so complicated to plug something in and use it.

I get optimal results by unplugging all the appliances in my house first, then one by one plugging them back in by alphabetical order of the manufacturers name. Then once that is done, I plug my TT2 back in and the SQ is magic.
 
Feb 24, 2021 at 8:56 AM Post #12,771 of 18,895
I get optimal results by unplugging all the appliances in my house first, then one by one plugging them back in by alphabetical order of the manufacturers name. Then once that is done, I plug my TT2 back in and the SQ is magic.
I use the exact same sequence, except I was always told that the appliances should be plugged in REVERSE alphabetical order starting with Z. Also, do you use the name of the appliance or the brand? Like would my dishwasher be "D" or "M" for Monogram? Which way do you think is best? :beyersmile:
 
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Feb 24, 2021 at 9:02 AM Post #12,772 of 18,895
It seems everybody do the power sequence according to their own experience and knowledge. I think there is not “correct” order as long as it makes no harm for device. Whatever, most happiest moment is start listen first tune of each one’s favorite from beloved TT2. Today I am also happy because my TT2 is back on shelf and M-Scaler no more lonely. Cheers!
 
Feb 24, 2021 at 9:49 AM Post #12,773 of 18,895
Because I am concern if DC output voltage is fluctuating when power brick connect to wall, will give bad affect to TT2. I would like to prevent this problem.
I made mistake when need TT2 off. Edit my original post already.
Power Off TT2 first is same, Disconnect DC jack from TT2 is second, and finally disconnect power brick from wall.
Just be careful in that this is the opposite of what we've seen recommended, maybe even by chord support, in the past. They always recommend connecting DC prior to AC.

I'm not sure that I'm kidding when I say I may try keeping it plugged into the big power station mentioned here before which has 12v/10a out and just topping off the battery when I'm not using the TT2. This would let me make my two daily migrations without unplugging or even turning off the unit. Of course when I get a new listening chair, I may not need to migrate quite as much and someday I may be ok with the Mojo taking on some more around the house duty (post honeymoon).

For reference:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B085PYYX2B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

EDIT: sorry this came in after many others. It is amazing these bursts of posts on this thread. I thought I responded within a few minutes of you but I guess I needed a refresh.
 
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Feb 24, 2021 at 10:36 AM Post #12,774 of 18,895
I am currently in the process of researching network streamers (currently looking at the SOTM SMS 200) as the final component in my headphone chain. This will liberate my MacBook Pro from my system once and for all. As I have been tweaking things here and there I have a question regarding dynamics and sound quality hopefully someone can shed some light on...

Last week I built a fanless NUC music server running Roon ROCK. Prior to that, I was streaming Tidal HiFi from the Tidal app on the MacBook Pro hooked to the TT2 (and now the M Scaler) and playing files directly from the MBP. Now, without a network streamer, I am still hooking my MacBook Pro to the M Scaler via USB but I am streaming Tidal HiFi through the Roon app and playing my music files stored on an SSD connected to my ROCK server. The difference in sound quality (and the volume level required) si significantly improved with the dedicated music server. My question is, why? I am still plugging into the MBP to get to the M Scaler. What causes the improvement in dynamics and 3-4 db lower required volume level? I am not complaining, just curious:) Thanks!
 
Feb 24, 2021 at 10:57 AM Post #12,775 of 18,895
I am currently in the process of researching network streamers (currently looking at the SOTM SMS 200) as the final component in my headphone chain. This will liberate my MacBook Pro from my system once and for all. As I have been tweaking things here and there I have a question regarding dynamics and sound quality hopefully someone can shed some light on...

Last week I built a fanless NUC music server running Roon ROCK. Prior to that, I was streaming Tidal HiFi from the Tidal app on the MacBook Pro hooked to the TT2 (and now the M Scaler) and playing files directly from the MBP. Now, without a network streamer, I am still hooking my MacBook Pro to the M Scaler via USB but I am streaming Tidal HiFi through the Roon app and playing my music files stored on an SSD connected to my ROCK server. The difference in sound quality (and the volume level required) si significantly improved with the dedicated music server. My question is, why? I am still plugging into the MBP to get to the M Scaler. What causes the improvement in dynamics and 3-4 db lower required volume level? I am not complaining, just curious:) Thanks!
I use an Auralic Aries G2 and I've been very pleased with it. This was an upgrade from an Aries Mini in the same system and it provided an improved sound over that device.

I have no idea what my MacBook Pro would be like as a source as I use it for work and, of course, chatting about nonsense on forums.
 
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Feb 24, 2021 at 11:28 AM Post #12,776 of 18,895
I am currently in the process of researching network streamers (currently looking at the SOTM SMS 200) as the final component in my headphone chain. This will liberate my MacBook Pro from my system once and for all. As I have been tweaking things here and there I have a question regarding dynamics and sound quality hopefully someone can shed some light on...

Last week I built a fanless NUC music server running Roon ROCK. Prior to that, I was streaming Tidal HiFi from the Tidal app on the MacBook Pro hooked to the TT2 (and now the M Scaler) and playing files directly from the MBP. Now, without a network streamer, I am still hooking my MacBook Pro to the M Scaler via USB but I am streaming Tidal HiFi through the Roon app and playing my music files stored on an SSD connected to my ROCK server. The difference in sound quality (and the volume level required) si significantly improved with the dedicated music server. My question is, why? I am still plugging into the MBP to get to the M Scaler. What causes the improvement in dynamics and 3-4 db lower required volume level? I am not complaining, just curious:) Thanks!

I sometimes wonder if it comes down to load on the system. I notice even when using a modern iPhone with Tidal/Amazon/Plex, if I do much else on the phone, like switch to a head-fi thread :wink:, I get a lot of noise, pops, crackle. It could come down to micro instances of this phenomenon impacting your enjoyment. I don't notice it much on Mac.

EDIT: worth pointing out that I use optical via a caldigit dock on Mac vs USB on iPhone, so what I experience could be related to USB drivers/handling. I see you are using USB too.

I'm liking the bluesound node 2 that I've had for years. Will probably add one or two more. My main reason at first was I liked their speakers as an alternative to Sonos for spreading around the house. Their app was annoying for a long time but has come a long way. Recently they've added Tidal connect which is really nice because you can stay in the Tidal app and is one reason I may continue to pay nearly double for Tidal. I'm trying an Amazon 3-month trial, but honestly, I hate it for a variety of reasons; primarily: No API support (I write python scripts for syncing/managing music and playlists), Non-functional exclusive mode/not bit perfect on Mac and iOS. It is however most usable and acceptable on the node 2. I think/hope I will really like Qobuz when I try that next. All of these work natively on Bluesound along with Roon. If you are a Roon user, I suggest you read some bluesound threads on the topic because there were some that seemed unhappy over the years--hopefully those issues have been resolved.
 
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Feb 24, 2021 at 12:58 PM Post #12,777 of 18,895
So I think I've got my set up finalized for a long while.

MScaler->TT2->Auris Nirvana running Mullard Xf1 EL34s and a Telefunken ECC802S->Susvara.

Source is optical out from PC playing QoBuzz and Tidal.

I'm not getting a DAVE. This is about all the money I'm spending on my set up.

And boy does it sound INCREDIBLE.....

Upgraded from Qutest with no M Scaler and swapped out NOS tubes for stock on the Nirvana.

I'm in love with this sound. 😍
 
Feb 24, 2021 at 4:10 PM Post #12,778 of 18,895
I am currently in the process of researching network streamers (currently looking at the SOTM SMS 200) as the final component in my headphone chain. This will liberate my MacBook Pro from my system once and for all. As I have been tweaking things here and there I have a question regarding dynamics and sound quality hopefully someone can shed some light on...

Last week I built a fanless NUC music server running Roon ROCK. Prior to that, I was streaming Tidal HiFi from the Tidal app on the MacBook Pro hooked to the TT2 (and now the M Scaler) and playing files directly from the MBP. Now, without a network streamer, I am still hooking my MacBook Pro to the M Scaler via USB but I am streaming Tidal HiFi through the Roon app and playing my music files stored on an SSD connected to my ROCK server. The difference in sound quality (and the volume level required) si significantly improved with the dedicated music server. My question is, why? I am still plugging into the MBP to get to the M Scaler. What causes the improvement in dynamics and 3-4 db lower required volume level? I am not complaining, just curious:) Thanks!
I have an SoTM 200 and am very pleased with it - it is currently feeding a Chord QuteHD but a Black TT2 is on the way!
 
Feb 25, 2021 at 7:55 PM Post #12,779 of 18,895
So you use the TT2 amp more than tube amp now?

What tube amp do you have?
Elekit TU-8200 DX with upgraded capacitors and Sophia Electric EL34 tubes. NOS RCA 12AU7
 
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Feb 26, 2021 at 12:33 AM Post #12,780 of 18,895
I have an SoTM 200 and am very pleased with it - it is currently feeding a Chord QuteHD but a Black TT2 is on the way!

sotm is awesome. im using one as well. just bought the SPS 500 power supply for it :beerchug:
 
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