[GreenBow]

I love how fast mouser shipping is. Got another 10 Wurth STAR-GAP ferrites today. Now there are 10 ferrites on each of my cables. There is some minor improvement in comparison to 5 cores on each cable, but I can`t say that I`m impressed like it was in the first time. Difference between 5 and 0 ferrites was stunning, going from 5 to 10 is more about fine tuning. 1m cables have enough space to fit 10 more cores, but I doubt if that will make sound any better.

I will follow this story. I think striking out and doing it your own way was genius.

There were quite a lot of posts a long time ago in the TT2 thread about ferrites. (It became a joke about ferrets) However that was long before you even bought a Qutest. ……. Good luck.

I think the burning question for me is, do ferrites go all the way, or only reach a certain point? I also wondered if different spec ferrites on one cable, might be more effective. Still not sure how you worked it out by impedance curve, but thanks for sharing what you used.

 

[ray-dude]

...and i think somewhere in this forum are Rob's posts about the correct impedance. I dont have my notes handy but based on his comments i purchased:
WURTH ELECTRONIK 74271131 and 74271633S
...to good effect. Although that was on a USB cable. Alternating both so about 20 in total.

IIRC, Robs first post on ferrites (for Blu2) were the 1GHz Wurths. Later, he recommended the 2.5GHz Wurths.

I can confirm that the 2.5GHz were more effective for me than the 1GHz, but the difference was very slight for me (see my Blu2 review linked below for the gory details). I ended up with both on my Ferritted Cable of Shame, but that’s only because I started with a batch of 1GHz ferrites, then purchase the 2.5’s.

If you’re starting fresh, order ~10 2.5’s, and add them one at a time to each BNC cable. You’ll hear a difference as you go. At some point you won’t hear a difference any more. Add another ferrite after that point (for giggles), and Bobs your Uncle.

• Wurth 74271633S 2.5GHz ferrites (preferred) ($7 each) https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/wurth-electronics-inc/74271633S/732-1514-ND/1638918
• Wurth 74271131S 1GHz ferrites ($5 each) https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/wurth-electronics-inc/74271131S/732-3625-ND/2901120

 

[ekfc63]

i wish i could make 5K mistakes at the drop of a hat. mind you i am grateful for what i have my mscaler and tt2.

I sounded casual but I assure you it wasn't. Will have to sell a bunch of stuff off and the kids'll be eating chip butties for a while. The 1266s are that good.

 

[GreenBow]

IIRC, Robs first post on ferrites (for Blu2) were the 1GHz Wurths. Later, he recommended the 2.5GHz Wurths.

I can confirm that the 2.5GHz were more effective for me than the 1GHz, but the difference was very slight for me (see my Blu2 review linked below for the gory details). I ended up with both on my Ferritted Cable of Shame, but that’s only because I started with a batch of 1GHz ferrites, then purchase the 2.5’s.

If you’re starting fresh, order ~10 2.5’s, and add them one at a time to each BNC cable. You’ll hear a difference as you go. At some point you won’t hear a difference any more. Add another ferrite after that point (for giggles), and Bobs your Uncle.

• Wurth 74271633S 2.5GHz ferrites (preferred) ($7 each) https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/wurth-electronics-inc/74271633S/732-1514-ND/1638918
• Wurth 74271131S 1GHz ferrites ($5 each) https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/wurth-electronics-inc/74271131S/732-3625-ND/2901120

Nice one Ray!

(I have copied and pasted that to Word, just in case I go the M-Scaler way.)

 

[Triode User]

I see several hundred types of ferrites on Mouser. How did you choose the right one?

I have just dug out my pile of unused clip on ferrites from the early days of experimenting and see that they also are Wurth 74271131 and 74271633. This was with an 8mm dia cable. Different diameter cables might require different ferrites. I used a minimum of 20 on each cable and was still hearing differences before I found that solid core ferrites were better than clip on ones. Also, having done loads of experiments I found that different cables react very differently to the ferrites and you definitely get different sound qualities and effectiveness even with the same number and same type of ferrites on the cables. That took me over 6 months of trying different combinations of cable types and different ferrites. Anyway, those two mentioned types of ferrites are a good place to start.

 

[ray-dude]

I should add to my earlier post, Nicks WAVE cables were a clear step up from my DIY cables. The ferrites linked to above are clip on ferrites. Nick has done all the leg work to match ferrites (solid, not clip on...makes a difference) and cables and pull it all into a first rate package.

That being said, building your own BNC cables is beyond the patience and ability of a lot of us. The DIY approach will give you a huge lift over stock, for very little effort and expense (five minutes to order, <1 minute to clip them on)

If a quick listen with DIY ferrites makes you go WOW, drop Nick a note for an end game ferrite solution, or Dan a note for an end game optical solution with the Opto DX. Both are extremely generous with try at home arrangements, so you’ll be able to directly compare to your DIY solution.

 

[alxw0w]

I have a maybe silly question, but I'm just wondering.
Has anyone connected m scaler to chord mojo ?
Any thoughts ?

 

[Progisus]

Maybe Chord should ship a big bag of ferrites with each mscaler. They seem to be mandatory.

 

[kyle1010]

Fresh birthday present HMS in the house and blowing me away..on stock BNCs no less. Upgrade ones arrive next week. Quick question, can the lights be dimmed? If so, how?

 

[ekfc63]

Fresh birthday present HMS in the house and blowing me away..on stock BNCs no less. Upgrade ones arrive next week. Quick question, can the lights be dimmed? If so, how?

Congrats. It’s a great piece of gear. What BNC cables did you buy?

 

[Amberlamps]

Fresh birthday present HMS in the house and blowing me away..on stock BNCs no less. Upgrade ones arrive next week. Quick question, can the lights be dimmed? If so, how?

To dim the light on the mscaler, push both dx volume balls at the same time. But you can't disable them and even when dimmed, they still look bright.

I Like the look of your valve amp though, I want a valve amp and a nixie clock.

 

[kyle1010]

Congrats. It’s a great piece of gear. What BNC cables did you buy?

Thanks! AudioArt D-1SE. They’re my “starter” BNCs. I’ll go WAVE or equivalent in due time.

https://audiobacon.net/2018/08/11/t...ist-the-best-digital-coaxial-cables/12/?amp=1

 

[ekfc63]

Thanks! AudioArt D-1SE. They’re my “starter” BNCs. I’ll go WAVE or equivalent in due time.

https://audiobacon.net/2018/08/11/t...ist-the-best-digital-coaxial-cables/12/?amp=1

I was thinking the same. Wish there was a way to try all three before buying.

 

[kyle1010]

To dim the light on the mscaler, push both dx volume balls at the same time. But you can't disable them and even when dimmed, they still look bright.

I Like the look of your valve amp though, I want a valve amp and a nixie clock.

Got it, Yeah really wish I could turn them off but oh well..same as my old Hugo 2 I just listen and forget about them. As it should be for the price, that amp is mind blowing. It’s my 3rd and final upgrade after starting with a WA7 in 2015. I have zero intentions of listening to the TT2/HMS stack by itself any time soon. You’ll see what I mean when you hear acoustic instruments through glowing hot tubes for the first time. Solid state life might go right out the window

 

[kyle1010]

I was thinking the same. Wish there was a way to try all three before buying.

Seriously.