[naynay]

I remain a bit confused about the dual BNC cable connections between HMS and DAVE.

I don’t want to mix up right and left channels and not sure which dual BNC inputs to use for DAVE. The manuals are not very specific and unclear
About left and right channels.

Right now I have HMS dual BNC 1 out to DAVE dual BNC 3 top and HMS dual BNC 2 out to DAVE dual BNC 4 bottom. Is this correct and does it matter if on DAVE the paired 1/2 or 3/4 inputs are used??

Thanks

I have mine the opposite HMS BNC 2 out into DAVE BNC top 3 and HMS BNC1 out into DAVE BNC bottom 4.
You will not beable to use the various sample rates other than maximum white light the other way.

 

[Ciggavelli]

That new Tool album (Fear Inoculum) sounds pretty amazing using the TT2/H-MScaler/Abyss TC and the 768hz upscaled version from the 24/96 album on Qoboz

 

[JaZZ]

I have mine the opposite HMS BNC 2 out into DAVE BNC top 3 and HMS BNC1 out into DAVE BNC bottom 4.
You will not beable to use the various sample rates other than maximum white light the other way.

Note that DAVE's bottom BNC inputs are numbered as 1 and 3!

I should have HMS dual BNC 1 out to DAVE dual BNC 3 bottom and HMS dual BNC 2 out to DAVE dual BNC 4 top.

Red is the correct(ed) configuration. It would mean that you now get no sound other than with full 1 million taps – and with reversed channels.

 

[naynay]

You have just repeated basically what i have said.The two BNC on Dave opposite the RCA inputs go BNC 3 top BNC 4 bottom.

 

[JaZZ]

You have just repeated basically what i have said.

Well, your input numbers were wrong!

 

[naynay]

Well, your input numbers were wrong!

The Dave manual does not directly state which BNC is 3 or 4 i have listed as 3 being top and 4 being bottom you name them what you like as long as the cables match what i have said.

 

[JaZZ]

The Dave manual does not directly state which BNC is 3 or 4 i have listed as 3 being top and 4 being bottom you name them what you like as long as the cables match what i have said.

Yes, the manual isn't clear, but DAVE's display is. It's not unimportant to keep in mind that HMS output 1 belongs to DAVE input 1 or 3.

 

[Triode User]

Maybe this will make things clearer so we can all use the correct BNC numbering on Dave when discussing?

 

[naynay]

Yes, the manual isn't clear, but DAVE's display is. It's not unimportant to keep in mind that HMS output 1 belongs to DAVE input 1 or 3.

If you look back to my first response to this i did state that you will only beable to get full upsample if cables are not correct.
I will say this again i have stated BNC on Dave 4 as bottom and 3 as top so HMS 1 to bottom dave HMS 2 to top dave.

 

[Christer]

I have enjoyed crackle-free music in the last couple of days. There is no explanation why, I didn't change anything. However, I have still noticed subtle artifacts all the time. They did not sound like little electric sparkles as before, but more like small recording issues. In other words, the crackling became quieter. They were as if someone in a big orchestra dropped something in the background quietly. Some of these noises are indeed in the recording but some are unfortunately not: when I rewound the track they were not there. I would say, these "artifacts" are tolerable, they don't ruin or distract too much from the music. So, not bad.

Out of curiosity I picked up an inexpensive Behringer U-Control UCA222 this morning (I had to drive to Germany as such products are not sold in, or delivered to Switzerland which is not part of the EU).


This little thing converts digital USB to optical S/PDIF which I connected to the M Scaler. I have listened to two quiet albums today and so far I could not catch any "artifacts" that were not in the recording. In other words, switching from USB to optical on the M Scaler eliminated even these very subtle noises. Looks like these artifacts didn't come from the mains after all. I have even moved everything back to the original wall socket. (This doesn't mean that the M Scaler could not sound better off grid, of course. I understand from @Triode User that RFID isn't directly audible.) Looks like my overpowered laptop, a maxed out 2018 MacBook Pro 15" with six-core i9 CPU, is the cause of the crackles getting into the M Scaler via USB (note that I have a JitterBug and an AudioQuest Cinnamon USB cable).

However, not everything is perfect. It turned out that the Behringer UCA222 is limited to 16 bit / 48kHz which is not enough. I could live with a limit of 24 bit / 192kHz alright though.

So obviously I've become a big fan of the optical connection now. This system never sounded so good. Currently I am looking for a Roon endpoint with optical out. Let me know if you know a good one. An older Mac Mini could probably do but I would prefer something that is not obsolete and can be replaced if it dies. (I have also considered Antipodes because they are belived to be very nice even via USB but they are very hard to import into Switzerland and are very expensive, especially with the additional customs fee.)

Good to hear that you are gradually sorting out your problems.

I am also using a mbp but an older 2012 17" matte screen one with both USB and firewire ports.
An old beast from the days when mac still made good laptops for photographers .
I keep most of my hi res music on portable firewire hardrives and play my music either via Audirvana or Pure music Player.
Both those players override and take control of the mac's internal audio midi settings and close down other possibly signal disturbing things in a computer.
Macbook Pros are not ideal digital sources.
The USB ports could very well be the real culprits in your case.
I am also looking into other better ways to play my hi res files and rips than via my mbp.


But with well recorded albums hi res and rbcd rips via USB can actually sound very good indeed via HMS.

But I have to say that the most amazing and surprising thing with MScaler for me personally, is how very close to hi res rbcd via OPTICAL out from one of my SACD players sounds.

A non musical l example, I have a nature sounds recording in rbcd quality where before HMS /Wave BNC I could just barely hear a fly among the singing birds, now via HMS/ HEKV2 and HD800 I can even briefly follow the flight path it takes,aurally!

And as far as music on cd is concerned, in the past four months I have bought more classical music rbcds than in the past 20 years!

With a good cd and via optical and Wave Storm I get the most noise free and cleanest digital sound I have ever had in my system.
Although I have quite a good LP system I haven't played any LPs since the Proms started the 19th of July.

Via optical from a cd player the only crackling sounds or artifacts I hear are either in the recording or from some scratched second hand bargain cds I have bought.

But I have experienced probably the very same pops and clicks issues you have via USB occasionally via streaming.

Luckily only very occasionally.

I can live with occasional pops and clicks from LPs but not from digital.
Not even very low level clicks are acceptable imho.

Keep us posted when you've reached Nirvana.

Cheers CC

 

[JaZZ]

If you look back to my first response to this i did state that you will only beable to get full upsample if cables are not correct.
I will say this again i have stated BNC on Dave 4 as bottom and 3 as top so HMS 1 to bottom dave HMS 2 to top dave.

You can use this personal numbering for your own pleasure, but please don't post it here anymore, as it will only confuse the users.

 

[naynay]

You can use this personal numbering for your own pleasure, but please don't post it here anymore, as it will only confuse the users.

I'm sure the people it concerns are educated enough to follow top and bottom as i stated there should be no confusion.
I end this now as triode as kindly shown a photo showing the numbered BNC's on Dave.

 

[tunes]

Got it now!

BNC 1 on HMS to BNC 3 on Dave bottom

BNC 2 on HMS to BNC 4 on Dave top

 

[Progisus]

Hey @musickid ... I'm joining the mscaler fraternity. Now to decide whether to hook it to the TT1 or H2. Of course I'll try with both but I think I'll start with the TT1. Has anyone used the Moon H2 to MS coax cable? Is it worth it or is there a less expensive equal or better option?

 

[musickid]

It is a complete waste of time hooking it up to the TT1 as you will not get the full 1M taps upscaling. The H2 accepts dual coax in so if you do that you will immediately hear why people are paying 3.5K for the mscaler.