[Rob N]

I'm getting a pair of R10's this month and although I've read alot about them on this board I'd like to know from those (few) who have them as well as the HP1000 which do you use most,R10 or HP1000?

 

[Hirsch]

Quite honestly, it's a toss-up. I go through periods when I use the HP-1 a lot, and others where I'll listen to the R10. I have other headphones, but one of those two is always my primary.

The R10 excels at imaging. Big broad image, with a resolution that no other dynamic headphone touches, IMO. The weaknesses are the bass response. While bass quality can be very good, even at best it sounds as though the bass player has stepped to the rear of the stage. At worst, it can sound like the bass player fell off of the stage entirely. The other "weakness" may be part of the appeal as well. The R10 is not a neutral headphone, nor has it ever pretended to be. It has a very distinct sonic signature that it imposes on the music. This is a very euphonic coloration, and very pleasant to listen to. When it's "on" the R10 can do magic. The R10 is very finicky about amplification, despite being a fairly efficient headphone. If the amplification is off, the soundstage can sound compressed, and the coherence of the sound will come apart.

The HP-1 (HP-1000 series) is probably the most neutral of the dynamic headphones. It was actually designed as a studio monitor, but makes a superb consumer headphone as well. It doesn't have the imaging capability of the R10, but doesn't impose it's own coloration on the music either. It's a relatively inefficient headphone, but still within the range of most headphone amps (only the K-1000 is less efficient in my experience). In some setups, it won't seem to have as much detail as the R10, or even the subsequent RS-1. It appears to be far less dependent on the amplifier than the R10, and will sound good with most amplication. This is partly illusory, as the HP-1 will respond to changes in amplification and cabling, and reach levels of performance that can be absolutely stunning. I suspect that the less finicky nature of the HP-1 may lead some owners to not realize just how good the headphone can be, just because it sounds good without maxing out a system.

 

[Rob N]

Hi Hirsch I've got an EMP and HP4,I know jatinder tried the R10 with the EMP and thought it worked fairly well and both you and jatinder have/had the HP4.So I should be OK?

 

[bozebuttons]

Untill recently The R10s got most of the work.After the new york meet the r10s have been sitting idle.
The hp1s are the headphones I have been using with my carlo modded maestro. Sharing duties with the stax omegaII And senn he60 using 007t amp setup.
The R10s & hp1s are both world class headphones,
I can use either one and get lost in the music.

 

[grinch]

Quote:

Originally posted by bozebuttons Untill recently The R10s got most of the work.After the new york meet the r10s have been sitting idle. The hp1s are the headphones I have been using with my carlo modded maestro.

told you that setup was incredible.

after hearing the r10, i feel that even at the current prices, the hp-1 is a better headphone. i'm more into detail than soundstage though, when headphones are being used anyway. the r10 is a nice headphone, and very comfortable, but the current prices (even used) are just too outrageous for what you get. it's definitely colored and i found it fairly seductive and on bozebutton's setup i heard plenty of bass from it. my problem with the bass was that it didn't extend very low. plenty of bass, it just didn't go low at all, especially when directly compared to the omega 2 and hp-1. i think maybe i found a pair of r10's for around $1k i'd consider purchasing them, but anything over that and i'm really not hip to.

so for me, my path has been chosen: stax and a maestrobator for my hp-1's.


[edit]: switcheroo, thanks nate.

 

[Rob N]

Quote:

Originally posted by grinch i think maybe i found a pair of r10's for around $1k i'd consider purchasing them, but anything over that and i'm really not hip to.

So if your HP1's broke and were not repairable how much would you be willing to spend on a replacement pair?

 

[Hirsch]

Quote:

Originally posted by Rob N Hi Hirsch I've got an EMP and HP4,I know jatinder tried the R10 with the EMP and thought it worked fairly well and both you and jatinder have/had the HP4.So I should be OK?

The HP4 and R10 work well together, but best results are very tube dependent. I got very good results using Valvo 6SL7GT's and Amperex 6SL7GT's (made by GE, actually). Both of these tube sets are tall bottle tubes that don't fit in the HP4's case. I had an acryllic case made with extra height to accomodate tall bottle tubes.

HP4 using WWII era Sylvania VT-229's with HP-1000 is a killer combo (but IMO the R10 needs a little bigger push than I got with the Sylvania's).

 

[grinch]

Quote:

Originally posted by Rob N So if your HP1's broke and were not repairable how much would you be willing to spend on a replacement pair?

that's a really horrible thought.. but i'll try: i'd probably just stick with omega 2's, unless i could find a cheap pair somewhere.. but that seems impossible these days.

 

[screwdriver]

Quote:

Originally posted by Rob N So if your HP1's broke and were not repairable how much would you be willing to spend on a replacement pair?

Man - you just got me wondering too.
i think ill commit suicide when my HP-1 break.

 

[Duncan]

I hope you guys don't think of me as thread crapping here...

I know that R10s are $2000+ in the realistic world... but, if there were a cheap pair of really beat up HP1000s on ebay or the pawn shop, or wherever... with most of the lettering gone etc... would you still snap them up, if the drivers were in good (working) condition? - if so... any idea on a reasonable price for a beat up pair?

...There is no real way that I could afford some of the mint ones that are floating around ebay... but a beat up pair.......

Thanks

 

[Hirsch]

Quote:

Originally posted by Duncan I know that R10s are $2000+ in the realistic world... but, if there were a cheap pair of really beat up HP1000s on ebay or the pawn shop, or wherever... with most of the lettering gone etc... would you still snap them up, if the drivers were in good (working) condition? - if so... any idea on a reasonable price for a beat up pair? ...There is no real way that I could afford some of the mint ones that are floating around ebay... but a beat up pair.......

The HP-1000 is milled aluminum. Although the leather headband could eventually rot, to beat the headphone up you'd need to use a hammer. To the best of my knowledge, the presence or absence of the lettering does not affect the sound in any significant way

IIRC, Grado Labs will still perform repairs on the HP-1000 series. If I saw one cheap, I'd grab it and ask questions later (unless it looks like someone really did use a hammer

)

 

[bozebuttons]

Quote:

Originally posted by Rob N So if your HP1's broke and were not repairable how much would you be willing to spend on a replacement pair?

That is a horrible thought ,But I do have a mint pair of Hp3s as a backup.

 

[tom hankins]

Back up HP-3's? bozebuttons, Your my new hero.

 

[Rob N]

Quote:

Originally posted by Hirsch WWII era Sylvania VT-229's

Where's the best place to get these?

I've got some Valvo's and 1940's Tungsol VT229 tubes

 

[NotoriousBIG_PJ]

The r-10's resolution makes other dynamic headphones appear smeared in comparison. But then theres the very noticeable lack of bass in these headphones. Even the hp1000's lack a bit of bass, though I could still live with the amount that they give heh.
You really have to use your ears to find the headphone that is right for you..

Biggie.