How do I convince people that audio cables DO NOT make a difference
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Sep 16, 2018 at 12:50 PM Post #1,036 of 3,657
I'm a little sick of having to play both sides. but here I go anyway:
first, those with arguments or anecdotes about cables sounding differently, be hyper specific about material and testing conditions! it's annoying and a waste of everybody's time to constantly have to argue electrical properties without even knowing if the cable is used for digital transfer, or is carrying 100V into a Stax, or 0.3V into an IEM of extreme electrical design. or if your cable is made of chicken bones.
in the spirit of getting a little science involved, we need all the information we can get to make sense of what happens(whatever that is). obviously we have little hope of agreeing to a claim if we can't even know what's different between the 2 cables tested. expecting us to just tag along in total ignorance is wishful thinking. put yourself in our shoes.
as several people have said, there is very little mystery left in the cable world that wouldn't fully follow the accepted knowledge about conductors and electrical signal. I'll go on a limb and assume nobody is using a new superconductors as audio cable while keeping it at -50°C.
just saying that I tried 2 cables and they sounded different, will have people assume that I didn't test anything properly, and that I made up the differences in my head. or maybe there is a small difference in loudness and my brain drew all sorts of psychoacoustic conclusions about just a level change. or maybe one of the cables is just plain defective or really wrong for that specific use(like one chewed by a rabbit and hanging by a thread, using ethernet cable as a power cable, or other fun ideas like those). lack of proper information forces rational people not only to consider those options, but to consider them as the most likely answer. only when we can get as much data as possible, can people rule out various possibilities. don't blame us of being narrow minded when you guys bring empty anecdotes of "I heard a difference" as your only data and entire argument. let's not reverse the situation here, we're not demanding hard to get evidence to shut you up, we're demanding hard to get evidence because you're offering nothing to work with while making claims. if you don't want people to reject your claims and make unreasonable demands to an average audiophile, just don't come making empty claims. it's that easy!

now the other side. a single wire is almost stupidly easy to characterize, but a cable has a bunch of them very close to each other, and most of all, it has plugs and they're not all born equal. I wouldn't go as far as saying that a different plug and butchered soldering will result in audible differences on their own, but measurable difference without a doubt. same with different braiding, different insulation thickness, having a shield or not. all those can and will affect the electrical characteristics of the cable.
so getting measurable variations isn't impossible, that much is a properly established fact that nobody will deny. how would anybody go to prove that said variations will never reach a magnitude that is audible? or be placed between gears where that variations will become the difference between a stable circuit and a mess getting out of control? also all cables sound the same can't be proved. only disproved. let's avoid making anything resembling a claim on that subject.

and so we're left with something different, sometimes, for some reasons, resulting in some magnitudes of change in the output signal of a playback chain. will it be audible? did you blind test properly and volume match before running outside to tell the world how sure you are of an audible difference? do you know what's different between the 2 specific cables you're using? what electrical spec is the main cause of change and if such a specs should reach those values in a cable for that given usage? those are the questions we should care about. not dick measuring and people offended and thinking "Y U NO TRUST ME???", when the answer is so damn obvious. zero evidence or relevant information from some random guy on the internet. indeed why wouldn't we take such testimonies at face value... again, and I say this to everybody, try putting yourself in the other guy's shoes. the one with electrical understanding being told ludicrous stuff like how silver lose fewer details than copper. the one with 2 cables making a clear and very real difference in his system, reading that it cannot happen in this reality. both will be dumbfounded to find someone confident about something that makes obviously no sense at all.
now if the silver cable has a much lower impedance than the default cable and that somehow ends up increasing the trebles a little in an audible fashion on some weirdo IEM. that is something very specific that the laws of electricity can explain. but to properly explain it, we need enough data in the first place. not some dubious generalization based on logical shortcuts.
and if a situation creates a clear difference and I wish to convince people that it's true. the way to do it is to bother testing things properly, maybe record the output signal using both cables and sharing that. the way not to do it, is argue in the only place on Headfi allowing discussions of blind testing and placebo, that a sighted test is conclusive about sound because you trust yourself and are an "experienced" listener.





oh! and about measurements being only a small part of the equation. that as always can be interpreted as fair in the context where we're not measuring everything all the time with the best gears. or it can be interpreted as really ignorant in the context where someone truly believes his ears can notice something we don't know how to measure. so "a frequency response graph doesn't tell if I will hear a difference", that is true. but "there is more to sound than what can be measured", that's just dumb and completely divorced from reality.



you'll make a great teacher when you manage to exclude those moments of irritated emotion shining through in some of your phrases.
I agree with you 100%. the difference I imagine is that when you're paid to tell people things, you're naturally more tolerant. money often has that healing effect where you can smile to people you wish to punch in the face if your paycheck relies on it. ^_^
but yes, @gregorio has a thing about antagonizing people instead of just sticking to discussing gears and facts about gears. which inevitably makes further dialogue tedious. I think we'd all like a more Care Bear Greg.
 
Sep 16, 2018 at 3:02 PM Post #1,037 of 3,657

I'm not sure what you mean by "proper". I test for my own purposes... to determine if it makes a difference listening to music in my home. I'm not interested in adding any more decimal points to that because my tests tell me what I need to know. If that is good enough, I'm happy to participate. But I don't want to do a comparison randomly. I want someone to let me know of a cable that *doesn't* sound the same that I can compare. I've already been through hundreds that do sound the same. I have no interest digging through haystacks to find needles.

I've asked for examples of amps and cables that sound different. So far, I've only gotten one suggestion and it came along with measurements that showed that the difference was well below the threshold of audibility. I'm happy to know if there actually are out of spec things out there in the wild. Everyone should know so they can avoid them. I just haven't found any and no one seems to be able to point to one. Until then, I'm going to assume they don't exist and I'm going to double check by doing a listening test that suits my purposes on every piece of equipment I buy.
 
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Sep 16, 2018 at 4:20 PM Post #1,038 of 3,657
The only scenario where I think one *might* hear a difference is upgrading from 22-24AWG to 14AWG in a stereo where the speakers are each at least twenty feet from the amp or receiver.
 
Sep 16, 2018 at 4:43 PM Post #1,039 of 3,657
If you knew you had a long run, you’d use the proper gauge in the first place though.
 
Sep 16, 2018 at 9:20 PM Post #1,040 of 3,657
If you knew you had a long run, you’d use the proper gauge in the first place though.

Uhmm, you and I know that, but we are probably exceptions, at least in the general consumer context. You think a post-millennial teen would know how to wire speakers, period? Let alone select a suitable gauge? Having grown up on Blue Tooth buds and Beats, they probably think wired speakers(or wired headphones) are something Cro-Magnons used. lol!
 
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Sep 17, 2018 at 11:57 AM Post #1,041 of 3,657
Well, I'm sure there are people who try to play PAL DVDs in their US player but it isn't the player's fault that it won't play it.
 
Sep 19, 2018 at 11:25 AM Post #1,042 of 3,657
:)Apology accepted (and I hope I speak for everyone else)! (This, of course, assumes that I too am not on your Ignore list.)

I’ve had to apologize for worse in this very thread. Although my sins tend toward making light of things in the middle of a serious point rather than engagement. Which, if you are bored one day and want a little insight into yours truly, can be part of my personality.

Seriously, I always enjoy and respect your posts, which is more than I can say for myself sometimes.

So I have a serious question. I bought a 15 foot mini to mini line level cable to run from a computer to a powered speaker. My selection process was to pick a cable that looked cool and got five stars on Amazon—not too sophisticated. It cost $10. Electricity seems like magic to me. I don’t hear any problems at all with the sound. Is there any reason under conventional maths and engineering that this length of a line level run would lead to any degradation in sound? I am just doing it for decorative and convenience reasons. I could use a shorter run or even go WiFi. I am not worried about anything over 15 or 16 kHz. I’ve got some kind of resistance meter around the house (it also tests batteries which is what I use it for)—would that help?

As to the stated topic of this thread, in my view once a person believes that there is a large impact of cables to be had on sound, the three paths to persuasion are to point to the questionable conduct of the cable pushers and ask the person if that fits into a narrative they want to “buy” into, to legitimately educate a person or point them to the resources to educate themselves, or to set up a double blind test.

I think it is important to keep in mind that it is not illogical or counterintuitive to think that what carries the signal will make a large difference. I have been wrong about many things and shown otherwise. Probably my most embarrassing thing was thinking these ultrasonic button noise makers would keep mosquitoes away. Then I read in the paper that someone took the time to test them and they don’t work. And I thought, yeah, it appears I was wrong on that and in retrospect it seems ridiculous for any number of reasons. Things just needed to snap into place to pull me to my senses. The point being we need to meet people realizing that they just wound up on a rational but unfortunate side of a belief system, with the full complement of human frailties most of us carry.

There is also the saying (to paraphrase) from Uptain Sinclair that if a person’s livelilihood depends on them not understanding something, it’s going to be tough to get them to understand it—and that can cut in any number of directions.

I would also like to point out that there is an actual sound science music thread if someone wants to take the music part of this to a more appropriate place. I’d like to see a wide range of perspectives in there. There’s a tough sheriff in that town though so please at least be ready to say something, anything, substantive that you like about the music, and in that thread the sheriff requests a relatively high standard of conduct.


Another troll goes on Ignore.

Again, my apologies to the rest of the members reading this thread for engaging the troll. For the record, since I won’t see his response, I’m not suggesting that cables make a difference as I’m sure that will be the next post from SonicTruth.
 
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Sep 19, 2018 at 11:37 AM Post #1,043 of 3,657
:)Apology accepted (and I hope I speak for everyone else)! (This, of course, assumes that I too am not on your Ignore list.)

I’ve had to apologize for worse in this very thread. Although my sins tend toward making light of things in the middle of a serious point rather than engagement. Which, if you are bored one day and want a little insight into yours truly, can be part of my personality.

Seriously, I always enjoy and respect your posts, which is more than I can say for myself sometimes.

So I have a serious question. I bought a 15 foot mini to mini line level cable to run from a computer to a powered speaker. My selection process was to pick one that looked cool and got five stars an Amazon—not too sophisticated. It cost $10. Electricity seems like magic to me. I don’t hear any problems at all with the sound. Is there any reason under conventional maths that this length of a line level run would lead to any degradation in sound? I am just doing it for decorative and convenience reasons. I could use a shorter run. I am not worried about anything over 15 or 16 kHz. I’ve got some kind of resistance meter around the house (it also tests batteries which is what I use it for)—would that help?

As to the stated topic of this thread, once a person believes that there is a large impact of cables to be had on sound, the three paths to persuasion are to point to the quesrionable conduct of the cable pushers and ask them of that fits into a narrative they want to “buy” into, to legitimately educate a person or point them to the resources to educate themselves, or to set up a double blind test.

I think it is important to keep in mind that it is not illogical or counterintuitive to think that what carries the signal will make a large difference. I have been wrong about many things and shown otherwise. Probably my most embarrassing thing was thinking these ultrasonic button noise makers would keep mosqipuitoes away. Then I read in the paper that someone took the time to test them and they don’t work. And I thought, yeah, it appears I was wrong on that and it retrospect it seems ridiculous for any number of reasons. Things just needed to snap into place to pull me to my senses. The point being we need to meet people realizing that they just wound up on a rational but unfortunate side of a belief system

There is also the saying (to paraphrase) from Uptain Sinclair that if a person’s livelilihood depends on them not understanding something, it’s going to be tough to get them to understand it—and that can cut in any number of directions.

I would also like to point out that there is an actual sound science music thread if someone wants to take the music part of this to a more appropriate place. I’d like to see a wide range of perspectives in there. There’s a tough sheriff in that town though so please at least be ready to say something, anything, substantive that you like about the music, and in that thread the sheriff requests a relatively high standard of conduct.


Thanks Steve. I enjoy your posts as well and your injection of some personality into them.

I wouldn’t expect that cable to be an issue but would need to know it’s specifications to make a definitive statement. At that point, we can run them through one of the various internet “cable calculators” to fully understand any impacts and confirm they are not audible.

I actually thought I was responding in the music thread at first, thus my apologies in this one for the OT. Been planning on posting there and will shortly - I’m not afraid of the pseudo mod operating there:wink:
 
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Sep 19, 2018 at 11:38 AM Post #1,044 of 3,657
you had me at cables
 
Sep 19, 2018 at 11:45 AM Post #1,045 of 3,657
Is there any reason under conventional maths and engineering that this length of a line level run would lead to any degradation in sound?
Not really. Theoretically the wire can pick up some interferencies which are amplified in the speaker, but if you don't hear any noise from the speakers when the music is not playing, you should be okay.
 
Sep 19, 2018 at 11:47 AM Post #1,046 of 3,657
I asked nicely, it didn't work, so Thanos dealt with the extra off topic escalating posts.
now back to cable stuff plz.
 
Sep 19, 2018 at 12:00 PM Post #1,047 of 3,657
@TheSonicTruth, lets get back on topic shall we.


I'm not sure what you mean by "proper". I test for my own purposes... to determine if it makes a difference listening to music in my home. I'm not interested in adding any more decimal points to that because my tests tell me what I need to know. If that is good enough, I'm happy to participate. But I don't want to do a comparison randomly. I want someone to let me know of a cable that *doesn't* sound the same that I can compare. I've already been through hundreds that do sound the same. I have no interest digging through haystacks to find needles.

I've asked for examples of amps and cables that sound different. So far, I've only gotten one suggestion and it came along with measurements that showed that the difference was well below the threshold of audibility. I'm happy to know if there actually are out of spec things out there in the wild. Everyone should know so they can avoid them. I just haven't found any and no one seems to be able to point to one. Until then, I'm going to assume they don't exist and I'm going to double check by doing a listening test that suits my purposes on every piece of equipment I buy.


No idea what a proper test would be like! @JaeYoon said good things. To get to the heart of the matter I guess most could continue to enjoy discussing and learning bits of theory here and there as part of a daily routine but personally I'm now way more interested in just finding out if person A says so and person B says such, put it to the (group) test. The thing is, until someone crazy motivated applies to organise such meet it looks like more conversation ahead.

With regard to amps and cables that sound different.. not sure if I understand correctly to be honest but I'll give you examples anyway. Off the top of the head compare a Bottlehead SEX and a Bottlehead Crack if you have the chance. Or against a Gilmore Lite Mk2 which was my last solid state. RCA interconnects, try AudioQuest G-Snake versus Atlas Integra Equator III. For DAC's my current is a Soekris 1421 that I compared with the now sold Metrum Amethyst. All clearly different. Sighted ofcourse and individually tested.
 
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Sep 19, 2018 at 1:46 PM Post #1,048 of 3,657
Why do you need to put it to a group test? Just do the test yourself and find out for yourself. When you test stuff, it always is more useful if you test using your own circumstances and needs in mind. Then when you find out, it's information you can use. I have a few preamps and switch boxes and patch bays that I juggle around to get a quick comparison whenever I buy something new. It isn't hard to do a comparison test. The only people who are uncertain about things like this are people who just take other people's word at face value and don't make the effort for themselves. Everyone who's made the effort to do a controlled listening comparison of cables knows that they are all pretty much interchangeable.

With regard to amps and cables that sound different.. not sure if I understand correctly to be honest but I'll give you examples anyway. Off the top of the head compare a Bottlehead SEX and a Bottlehead Crack if you have the chance. Or against a Gilmore Lite Mk2 which was my last solid state. RCA interconnects, try AudioQuest G-Snake versus Atlas Integra Equator III. For DAC's my current is a Soekris 1421 that I compared with the now sold Metrum Amethyst. All clearly different. Sighted ofcourse and individually tested.

OK. Now I get to point out the basics of a "proper" listening test... First of all, the switching needs to be directly A/B switchable with no time gap between samples. If you have longer than a second or two between similar sounding samples, you'll never be able to discern a difference accurately. Secondly, it has to be line level matched. Human ears hear "louder" as better. Even a difference as small as 1dB can throw off your results. Thirdly, if the differences are small, you absolutely have to do blind tests. It isn't hard, just get a friend to help you. The vast majority of the claims about differences we get around here dissolve when a blind test is done. Bias is real and it's impossible for a human being to exist without it.

That said, do you have any examples that you are confident would sound different under these three controls? Gather together a switch box and a preamps and do the test. You'll definitely learn something.

By the way, I tried to go to the Bottlehead site to get specs on the models you mentioned...

The amplifier’s power output is approximately 2 watts RMS per channel at 10% THD at 500Hz, similar to a single ended 45 tube amplifier. Frequency response at 1V output is -3dB at 27Hz and 22kHz. The amplifier has an input sensitivity of .62V RMS and a gain of approximately 15 dB at 1 kHz and can be wired for 4,8,or 16 ohm speakers or 32 ohms for use with virtually any headphone. Input impedance is 100Kohms.

10% THD?! Who would want that?! I'll have to look closer when I get more time, but you might have found the perfect example of "defective by design". The specs page for the Crack doesn't list any specs.... just sales pitch. I would avoid those amps like the plague!
 
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Sep 19, 2018 at 2:33 PM Post #1,049 of 3,657
Why do you need to put it to a group test? Just do the test yourself and find out for yourself. When you test stuff, it always is more useful if you test using your own circumstances and needs in mind. Then when you find out, it's information you can use. I have a few preamps and switch boxes and patch bays that I juggle around to get a quick comparison whenever I buy something new. It isn't hard to do a comparison test. The only people who are uncertain about things like this are people who just take other people's word at face value and don't make the effort for themselves. Everyone who's made the effort to do a controlled listening comparison of cables knows that they are all pretty much interchangeable.



OK. Now I get to point out the basics of a "proper" listening test... First of all, the switching needs to be directly A/B switchable with no time gap between samples. If you have longer than a second or two between similar sounding samples, you'll never be able to discern a difference accurately. Secondly, it has to be line level matched. Human ears hear "louder" as better. Even a difference as small as 1dB can throw off your results. Thirdly, if the differences are small, you absolutely have to do blind tests. It isn't hard, just get a friend to help you. The vast majority of the claims about differences we get around here dissolve when a blind test is done. Bias is real and it's impossible for a human being to exist without it.

That said, do you have any examples that you are confident would sound different under these three controls? Gather together a switch box and a preamps and do the test. You'll definitely learn something.

By the way, I tried to go to the Bottlehead site to get specs on the models you mentioned...

The amplifier’s power output is approximately 2 watts RMS per channel at 10% THD at 500Hz, similar to a single ended 45 tube amplifier. Frequency response at 1V output is -3dB at 27Hz and 22kHz. The amplifier has an input sensitivity of .62V RMS and a gain of approximately 15 dB at 1 kHz and can be wired for 4,8,or 16 ohm speakers or 32 ohms for use with virtually any headphone. Input impedance is 100Kohms.

10% THD?! Who would want that?! I'll have to look closer when I get more time, but you might have found the perfect example of "defective by design". The specs page for the Crack doesn't list any specs.... just sales pitch. I would avoid those amps like the plague!
those specs are for max output. we're still in the tube world and I wouldn't bet my life on complete audible transparency, but I doubt THD values would come remotely that high under normal use with headphones.
 
Sep 19, 2018 at 3:59 PM Post #1,050 of 3,657
Why do you need to put it to a group test? Just do the test yourself and find out for yourself. When you test stuff, it always is more useful if you test using your own circumstances and needs in mind.

In the light of the discussion I think it would serve everybody best, on the condition we're truly open to real life verifiable results instead of talking from our homes about unverifiable individual experiences. Ultimately the subject cannot do without such a thing in my opinion. If I'm serious for a minute and take you and me as examples I find it pretty hard to imagine you haven't heard differences in the decades you're active and I'm pretty sure you have serious doubt about my conclusions. So as I see it, also due to my non-existing technical knowledge making it difficult to even try to engage on this level, ''proper'' group testing is the real deal.


Everyone who's made the effort to do a controlled listening comparison of cables knows that they are all pretty much interchangeable.

This looks like a generalization so I have to ask, who is everyone?


OK. Now I get to point out the basics of a "proper" listening test... First of all, the switching needs to be directly A/B switchable with no time gap between samples. If you have longer than a second or two between similar sounding samples, you'll never be able to discern a difference accurately. Secondly, it has to be line level matched. Human ears hear "louder" as better. Even a difference as small as 1dB can throw off your results. Thirdly, if the differences are small, you absolutely have to do blind tests. It isn't hard, just get a friend to help you. The vast majority of the claims about differences we get around here dissolve when a blind test is done. Bias is real and it's impossible for a human being to exist without it.

That said, do you have any examples that you are confident would sound different under these three controls? Gather together a switch box and a preamps and do the test. You'll definitely learn something.

Ok, good guide! Any cheap quality switchbox you can link to preferably in Europe?


By the way, I tried to go to the Bottlehead site to get specs on the models you mentioned...

The amplifier’s power output is approximately 2 watts RMS per channel at 10% THD at 500Hz, similar to a single ended 45 tube amplifier. Frequency response at 1V output is -3dB at 27Hz and 22kHz. The amplifier has an input sensitivity of .62V RMS and a gain of approximately 15 dB at 1 kHz and can be wired for 4,8,or 16 ohm speakers or 32 ohms for use with virtually any headphone. Input impedance is 100Kohms.

10% THD?! Who would want that?! I'll have to look closer when I get more time, but you might have found the perfect example of "defective by design". The specs page for the Crack doesn't list any specs.... just sales pitch. I would avoid those amps like the plague!

You got me here. Colour me clueless. I am confident though that the BH HQ can shed light in case you're very interested. Whether they're willing is another matter.
 
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