[Aldo40]

I do not understand why you stay on 0.03mm resolution. 0.05 is ample, you waste time for nothing. same if you have anti aliasing options there too, disabled them, it’s useless here To calculate the number of base layer there is a ruler, one layer per cm of shell height . Example if the height of your iem + support is 4 cm high then put 4 layers of base, it is for the resistance of detachment throughout the process.
Novamaker has incorrect configuration profiles this is the only fault of the Bene4 , I advise you to fire it and put lychee instead or chitubox

 

[mattmatt]

Here is the 3D printer layouts and settings

you can reduce your lift height by 2 or 3mm. but with your orientation I think 2mm would be okay. You can use .05 layer height but try increasing your exposure time by 1 second. Don't mind the "finger print" problem you told me. You can always just sand it down and lacquer or buff em out.

 

[discus123]

I do not understand why you stay on 0.03mm resolution. 0.05 is ample, you waste time for nothing. same if you have anti aliasing options there too, disabled them, it’s useless here To calculate the number of base layer there is a ruler, one layer per cm of shell height . Example if the height of your iem + support is 4 cm high then put 4 layers of base, it is for the resistance of detachment throughout the process.

The come out of the shell is very good, no more that extra layer of cured resin inside the shell. It is smoother and more finer than previous printing. Thanks Aldo40, your way of putting the shell is the best and I have no need to make an additional hole to drainage away the resin. I can't imagine different way of putting the shell would have so big different. Alright, in the next print, I'll change the layer height to 0.05mm to see if any improvement on shorten the printing time.

 

[discus123]

you can reduce your lift height by 2 or 3mm. but with your orientation I think 2mm would be okay. You can use .05 layer height but try increasing your exposure time by 1 second. Don't mind the "finger print" problem you told me. You can always just sand it down and lacquer or buff em out.

ok, I'll try it tomorrow. thanks mattmatt

 

[Aldo40]

if you took 8 hours in 0.03 you will divide your time by almost X2

 

[CBTlover223]

12mm tube
Add 10ohms to ED
And put a white damper in center

And tune other driver according to that ED(around that ED)

Do you think that adding a TEC - 30006 or Sonion 2015 would help with getting rid of some of the dips created by the 38DJ007Mi/9a + ED-29689?

 

[swtnate]

ok, I'll try it tomorrow. thanks mattmatt

Also, if you’re using an LCD/ Mono printer, those long exposure times cause undue heat exposure to the LCD screen. Depending on the printer, which im not familiar with the one you are using, the fan will not adequately cool it down. The overal idea is to get your model off the printer with the least amount of exposure time, using the least amount of resin, and not causing excessive heat on the components. One pair of universals with face plates will print out in 3 hours. Thats using black resin from eSun and an old Photon S.

 

[dhruvmeena96]

Do you think that adding a TEC - 30006 or Sonion 2015 would help with getting rid of some of the dips created by the 38DJ007Mi/9a + ED-29689?

I use sonion 33AJ for that purposes

 

[swtnate]

I use sonion 33AJ for that purposes

The 33AJ has almost just as choppy falloff but without the resonances. It does come pre-wired parallel too. But, it just doesn't BOOM and 808 like the 38.

 

[swtnate]

Someone in here blew my mind with a picture of the new Knowles dual driver. It had what looked like an ED29689 with a capacitor soldered to the center tap and to the positive. Is this how I have been supposed to wire this type drivers? (ie. 2389, 2389D, etc.) If so, I've got a WHOLE lot of measuring to do.

 

[mattmatt]

Someone in here blew my mind with a picture of the new Knowles dual driver. It had what looked like an ED29689 with a capacitor soldered to the center tap and to the positive. Is this how I have been supposed to wire this type drivers? (ie. 2389, 2389D, etc.) If so, I've got a WHOLE lot of measuring to do.

cramming it inside a really small shell is kind of difficult tho. I used to do that a whole bunch but after lifting the pads (both from the cap/resistor and the BA themselves) I moved to making a wiring harness.

Never did a parallel to the driver with caps tho. Wouldn't that act like a LPF?

 

[swtnate]

cramming it inside a really small shell is kind of difficult tho. I used to do that a whole bunch but after lifting the pads (both from the cap/resistor and the BA themselves) I moved to making a wiring harness.

Never did a parallel to the driver with caps tho. Wouldn't that act like a LPF?

Wiring harness???? Deets please!!

 

[dhruvmeena96]

The 33AJ has almost just as choppy falloff but without the resonances. It does come pre-wired parallel too. But, it just doesn't BOOM and 808 like the 38.

I meant
I use 33AJ in band limit
100Hz to 1kHz (give me flat response and way lower distortion with more palatable mid section)

And 38D1XJ for 100Hz and lower

Bass shelf point is 200Hz and bass rise is linear 10dB

I think i have enough boom to shatter reality

 

[Wgibson]

I am very curious about center tap and full coil at the same time with different crossovers. I assumed you just couldn't do that...

Also, if anyone has a multi driver notch filter circuit diagram, I'd love to see it. Don't need specific drivers or crossover values, just a generic wiring diagram would be great.

I have done 3 (4, one dual) driver with high pass, full range, and low pass and it was a bit strange but worked well, I can make a sketch, or what software is easy to make a diagram and save a picture with?

Does anyone notice a benefit to electrical filters vs only physical? Or does the driver take care of itself and you just hear what you hear? Physical, electric, or both, does it matter if you have the same frequency response?

 

[piotrus-g]

I am very curious about center tap and full coil at the same time with different crossovers. I assumed you just couldn't do that...

what it does is alter the slope and crossover point.
Think of it this way, if you have say ED-29689 with 2.2uF on full coil and than 0.47uF on half coil you'd get some signal at say 2kHz then it would start to gradually climb up until hitting that 0.47 where it would bump quite a bit higher, so it would be like less than 1st degree crossover design if you will or normal HPF with extra steps. If you switch to 0.47 at full coil and then 2.2.uF at half coil my understanding is that the power will flow only through the 0.47uF as it's easier for the voltage to pass